curt_saxton

<p>I would even wonder if as you said you had the camera front off, did you remove the lens mount and if so miss a shim under one side of the mount?</p>

<p>This camera was made by Montanus if you need to Google for extra info. I have several Montanus Roccas but no Delmonta so not much help I'm afraid.</p>

<p>Actually you don't even need to limit your choice to Exakta as the Tower 32A, Sears 32B and Firstflex 35 all used the Exakta mount too. They also fit certain Topcons too but that's a different story again.</p>

<p>I've got a couple Spotties, The Pentax Way as well as a personal memento from Mr. Keppler. A couple emails and two T mount adapters I bought from him on eBay.</p>

I use a product called "Goo Gone" for sticker residue, mirror bumper foam goo, tar, etc. and it all wipes right off. Dissolves leaving no oily residue.

Nice camera, good lens, great buy. No, the Domiplan is for my money the equivalent of putting a rock on the front of your camera. I have 14 now (they came on various buys) and only 2 work at all. Almost anything would be better.

I found a great old shop like this when I was on vacation several years ago. Sadly it was in Bay St. Louis Mississippi and was levelled by Hurricane Katrina.

The KSX Super is if I remember correctly, a Ricoh XR-6 in Canada and not ancient as stated but about early eighties vintage. Sounds like it might just be your mirror bumper foam gone gooey and sticking to your mirror thus holding it in the up position or else really weak batteries. Does your foam (above the lens with the lens removed)feel sticky or is it mushy/falling apart? Jon Goodman who sells under "interslice" on eBay can help if it's just the foam. Batteries can be just el cheapo hearing aid batteries or dollar store replacements just to check your shutter. Have you used this camera often before or is there a chance you might have the ISO/DIN # wrong? They're usually pretty decent cameras but as stated, now go pretty cheaply on eBay.

Hi Jure,

You might want to do a quick search for camerapedia.org and try Wester in their search box. I think yours is the Wester wartime 4.5 x 6 model as the Semi Wester seems quite a bit different. Not many photos but the description describes your model best.

Depending on your collecting tastes I'd second Matanle's books and add:

1. The Collector's Guide to Japanese Cameras

2. The 3 book series "Jason Schneider on Camera Collecting" (I have vol. 2 + 3, anyone want to sell vol.1 ?)

3.The First Time Collector's Guide to Classic Cameras by Kate Rouse

4.The First Complete Guide to Russian Cameras by Isaak Maizenberg

5. Cameras of China by Douglas St. Denny

6.Collector's Guide to Kodak Cameras by McKeown

7. Kuribayashi Petri Cameras by Baird

8. The Pentax Way by Keppler

9. The Rollie Way by Mannheim

10. The Univex Story by Repinski

11. Collector's Guide to Rollie Cameras by Evans

12. Rollie Manual by Pearlman

as well as any old AMPHOTO books or any of the Focal Press Camera Guide Series by manufacturer

Hi Yefei,

Paul is a co-moderator on The Camera Collector at ProBoards.com and checks in regularly. He may take a while to answer due to sickness in the family. I can't give out his email addy on the net. Hope this helps.

Sometimes you'll get lucky using something very mildly abrasive like an eraser for ink, or a tiny bit of tooth paste or automotive paint rubbing compound on a cotton swab. Just make sure it's a TINY bit and you don't get any in the shutter.

Nicely done Gene. I've been asked about my Anny 44 and Colt 44 (same camera) before. Now I can point them to your link. Maybe I'll have to actually use mine now, LOL. Made by Hoei Industrial in Japan.

Not a terribly difficult job, just remember the main thing here: you can re-glue the window or any other window/mirror etc. but NEVER use any of the Instant Glue type products. They off gas during drying and will make any glass/lens or plastic go opaque and you'll be out of luck. There's a reason they use a similar product to capture fingerprints permanently using the same off gassing. Instead use any type of contact cement or most epoxies.

By the way, I traded the Contax to a friend for a functional Olympus OM 10, 50mm and 200 mm. Now he has it in the line up at DAG to have it repaired. Yes, I kicked myself many times for trading it.

My best:

1. Contax II prewar w/sonnar for $0.05 Can. (I kid you not, estate sale, it had broken shutter ribbon)

2. Exa w/Ludwig Meritar for $1 (same estate sale. I filled my whole Mazda and made 2 trips all for $58 Can.)

3. Edixa Prismat for $1 US on eBay

4. Minolta X7-A w/50mm for $1 Can. at the Salvation Army thrift store

5. Minolta Autocord for $10 Can. at a yard sale (I never went back for the Graflex Speed Graphic for $50 Can.)

6. My latest find, a Canon Canonet 17 QL G III for $16 Can. at the Salvation Army

Hi Sid,

From the limited amount of info I could find: 1978, uses 2 AA batteries for CDS controlled auto exposure. An article was also in 1979 Amateur Photographer covering this and several other Fujicas. My experience with Fujinon glass has always been very positive but again that's a personal opinion.

Hi William,

Let's see if we can demystify this a bit for you. The Zenit 11 meter is similar to the EM so if you go to the link provided it will explain both that the meter is external and not connected to your shutter and is also the dial you see around the rewind knob.

The rewind release on the 11 is easy too. Underneath your shutter release button you'll see a half moon type cut out. This is to allow you to press down on the chrome collar that surrounds your shutter release button. The collar is your film take up spool release for rewinding.

The letters V and T are the settings for using your flash. Here's where memory escapes me but if I'm correct the V is for using your flash synchronised to your shutter (1/30 on most Zenits, not 1/60 as you might think). The T escapes me but could be for older bulb style flash. There is plenty of excellent info to be found at Tom Piel's site by either googling Tom or using his Tiger's Lair site name in your search. Tom also moderates an excellent Yahoo Zenit/Russian camera forum. Alfred Klomp also has a lot of Zenit info.

P.S. when searching I always use Dogpile as a search engine as the results come up in a more user friendly way. You might also try Zenit + 11 or Russian Camera + Zenit as search terms.

ABSOLUTELY, under no circumstance use Crazy Glue or any other cyanoacrylate miracle glues near any glass or plastic lenses , mirrors or focus screens. They outgas and overnight you'll have one murky mess you'll be lucky to see through. A dab of contact cement, a shim, even a small piece of paper tapped in to hold the lens steady, but no Crazy Glue.

Hi Sinnae,

On the film take up spool you should see a 1/2 inch (1 cm. approx.) metal strip that wraps around the spool. Slide the end underneath the metal strip. It goes beneath the trailing edge not the leading edge as the spool turns. Hope this helps.

The first car is a '63 or '64 Dodge Dart. The second car is a 70 or 71 Pontiac.

Hi Christopher,

My 97/98 McKeown's shows your first photo, the Spartus 35 made by Spartus/Herold Mfg. in Chicago circa 1947-54. Spartus Corp. began in 1934 and was bought by Harold Rubin in 1951 so after that date the cameras were by Herold Mfg. Your second photo doesn't appear but I'm guessing it's from the later 50's and is possibly a model 400.

Hi Peter,

Not 100% sure but the photo looks like an ICA Nixe (not to be confused with the Zeiss Nixe). 1909-1920's by Wunsche.

Ofuna Optical Inst Co., Ltd. 659, Dai, Kamakura-Shi, Kanagawa (Kanagawa)

(067) 2161-3 K. Asukada

There is another Petri clone probably made by Petri closer to the 7S than the 7 and I'm sure because I have all three. It's called the Carena RS and I have a picture posted at "The Camera Collector" forum as well as a list of the similarities and differences. Not that it'll be a rarity but just so that you're aware there is a clone.