kelvinphoto - arlington, t

I'll go with whatever ISO that give me 1-2 exposure less than background exposure. I don't set an ISO standard. I use ISO 1250 for daylight if I need to!

They are both good lens. The only question need to ask is weight vs quality.

 

24-70: Heavy! No IS! Impossible to handhold at 1/15 and below. Not a lot of distortion at the short end. Superb image quality. even at f2.8 is sharper than f4/5.6 of 105IS.

 

24-105: Not as sharp as 24-70, but it's very sharp at all apertures. distortion at short end, but can't really tell in real world Lightweight and IS and can be handhold at 1/15s and below if needed. Extra reach at the long end.

 

I had both and love them both. If I can afford to keep them both, then I would do so. Since I do a lot of Wedding and need that extra reach and rarely used the f2.8, I choose the 24-105.

 

I would love to keep the 24-70 to do portrait and outdoor portrait where I can use the f2.8 and don't have to drag the shutter.

 

They are both really good lens and it's depend on what you need it for. You have to decide it yourself;

 

Choose the f2.8, heavy weight, no IS, and no 70-105 reach or

Choose f4, light weight, IS, and more reach.

 

for image quality, I would say 10 vs 9/8.5. If you pixel peeping, then you can tell the differences. In the real world, it's not that much of differences and your client don't even know if the pictures are coming from the 24-70 or 24-105.

 

And like I said before I would keep both if I had the money for it.

PayPal is good to go! and I don't charge my customer 3% for it. just imaging you have your own CC machine, you would have pay more than 3% + a monthly fee.

what camera do you have? I have uses so many RAW converter out there and I found the one that is most accurate and fastest is the one that come with your camera because it uses the same algorithm as your camera. Other RAW converters take too long and use up so much memory try to do the same thing, and sometime is not even accurate.

17-40 is a superb lens. the only drawback is not f2.8. :) If you dont need 2.8, then 17-40 is perfect for you.

I am a Part Timer and will never ever consider is a full time job. It's a very competition markets to be in, and to survive as a full time job i have to make as least $100K/year to be in this market as a full timer or replace my current job. Plus, I don't have time for my family during weekend and so much time are wasted sitting in front of the computer if I decide to go fulltime. You have to make 200k-300k to consider the time that you put in is worth it or not!

 

My goal is 10 weddings a year and that's it. Hopefully, I'll get good enough so that I can charge 10K-15K/wedding. :)

Have you look at other photographers works that charge at your range?

 

To be honest, for the quality of works of 2500-3500 I expect more than what you show me!

I have both 1dmII and 5d. I use 5d for studio & outdoor shoot. For indoor & wedding works, I use the 1dmII because of better awb.

 

one more things you should know. The thing that really bug me about the 5d is the stupid LCD screen. It's not accurate, and Many have report it green/orange cast and not accurate. I hate the 5d's LCD screen! it suck! can't believe canon can't make it right with a 2k+ camera.

 

both are a keeper to me. AT ONE POINT, I WANT TO GET RID OF THE 5D BECAUSE OF IT'S STUPID LCD SCREEN.

I recommend you look at your local studio and ask them directly.

 

here is the play that I got my studio pictures done at.

 

http://www.lucy-s.com and they are in temple city.

Pictures are very beautiful, but I would love to see more wide shot to know who else was there or what the church look like, and add some fill-light to get rid of eye-ball shadow.

 

over-all are very beautiful.

my only answer to you is the key to become a successful wedding photographer is good marketing, not THE BEST PHOTOGRAPHER. You don't have to be the best photographer to be successful in wedding photography.

 

Example, gary fong and his toys. Everyone own one of his toys. Y?

that's right. I need the 50-150f2.8 for my studio works. The only advantage of prime when you need f2.8 and bigger. L zoom is very decent from f4.

 

for wedding, you need L zoom or 2 body with 2 primes. I rather go with 1body/zoom than 2body/2prime.

hehe, sorry about my stupid definition term in photography. I learn thru trial and error. :)<br>

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get a handheld meter and do a reading of the ambient light. if the meter read 1/30s, iso=1000, f2.8, then set your camera at f2.8, f4, f5, or f5.6. just use your camera in ttl mode or auto mode.<br>

 

<img src="http://www.kelvinphoto.com/sample/Truong%20&%20Yen/slides/012_ty.jpg"/>

SHMIL,

with digital, you only need a shoemount flash for any big group you want, and this is why I love CANON so much for it high iso performance.

 

The trick is to set your camera setting 0.5-1.5 stop below background reading.

 

goodluck!

did you build your computer from scratch or purchase from a vendor? If you purchase from a vendor, then I recommend you format your harddrive and install a new copy of window xp-pro on it. Don't install junk on your pc if you dont need it or shutdown it start-up process to free up cpu processes and memories. I have p2.2 and 1.5gb of ram and it still running good for me.

I agree with Conrad. When I look at your website, i think is a bridal/flower shop. although the pictures are excellent, but it didn't tell me anything about the day of the wedding and it didn't touch me. too much of the same things over and over again.

I recommend duo 2 core 6300 - 6700 with 4gb or ram. check out techbargains.com for good deal on dell desktop computer.

 

For those that use MAC! Good luck on support when you need them or pay an arm and a leg for it. Not a lot of MAC Expert out there is your friend.

 

MAC is reliable for sure, but when you need support such as drivers for new hardware or old hardware, softwares, that not compatible with MAC, you will end up crying for paying supports.

let me ask you a few questions.

 

1. what is wrong with your process of shooting jpeg?

 

2. Why do you need transition to RAW?

 

3. Do you think RAW is better than jpeg, or does your client complain about your jpeg file?

 

My recommendation is stick to what work best for you. There is no way better than the other. It is the techniques within each process that is better. not raw or jpeg.

 

If you want to learn how RAW work, then shoot JPEG + RAW to see what work best for you.

 

gl & hs.

it's your choice. stick to what you comfortable with

Yes, no warranty card = no rebate!

 

I bought my 5D from dbuy.com, which is not an authorized canon dealer although they state USA Canon Warranty. After receiving my 5D without a warranty card, I immediately call them to return the 5D and call my Credit Card company to make sure that they don't charge me a 15% restocking fee due to incorrect advertising the 5d as a Canon Warranty.

 

So, make sure the dealer is a Canon Authorized Reseller when you purchase online even through they stated Canon USA Warranty, which it's a fraud. Because you cannot get a Canon USA Warranty if they are not canon authorized reseller.

What is the point of releasing a new camera when there is no competition? I'll bet they have the 1ds markIII and 5d mark IIN ready to release, but there is no point of releasing it when you have no competition. Why don't release the new camera 1-by-1, slowly, and let your competition catch up and see what they got to show.

 

you should get a new camera when you need it, not wait for a new upgrade. I paid full price for my 1d mark II a month prior of 1d mark IIN announcements and I still in love with that camera. the new 1d mark III will not make me upgrade because I don't need to.

 

If you are in photography as a business, then purchase what you need. If you are in photography as a hobby, then get a new camera if you have $ to burn.

If you are in photography as business + hobby, then make sure your business own enuff money so that you don't loose money on upgrade.

People don't use fisheye and think the distortion is gimmicky, they are wrong. I use my fisheye for every wedding and some of great samples above tell you what it can do. All my clients saw my fisheye shots and their impression ... "WOW! I never seen anything like that before. can you add that in our album?"

 

Just like any tools. if you know how to use it, then it's a great tools. If you have enuff lens collection in your bag, then the fisheye is a great tools to have.

ON THE NEXT REBATE:

Just to make sure to put in your name, address, and web-tracking-id on every UPC, receipts, etc. If they get lost or stolen by a thieves in YA, then they cannot use your UPC or receipts as their own.

 

I have been doing it with all of my rebates and I have no errors whatsoever such as invalid UPC, and I never ever have to call in. Just long waiting process and still waiting for my $640, which I receive an email confirmation that it will arrive within 2-3weeks after 8 weeks of waiting. RIDICULOUS PROCESS!

yup! there is a lot of people complain about the 5D screen being green. search on dpreview and you will find that many users have the same issue as you are. My 5d screen is warm-yellowish, which is not accurate as well.

ouch! that's gotta hurt! I don't know how Sony's glass will hold up to their resale value as compare to Canon and Nikon. How about third party glass?