artie_kraemer

This is normal. This lens is not the most well built lens on the market but you'll get sharp pictures with it and in my book that's all that matters.

I just picked up a EOS 3 body and wanted to know if there is anyway to automatically sync the body to my 550ex at a max sync speed of 1/200 in AV mode? Do I have to shoot it in manual mode then set my shutter speed to 1/200 and just toy with my aperature and go by the distance shown on the back of my speedlite? Any answers would be appreciated...thanks!

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find a user manual for a

Sekonic Studio S light meter. I have gone to the Sekonic web site and

the manuals do not go back that far in the models. This particular

model was produced around the mid 50's. All I have to really find out

from the manual is how to calibrate the unit. I was told to cover the

dome in complete darkness and adjust the Zero screw in the back of

the unit. I had done that and tooka reading off an indoor light

source and compared it to a reading that was taken by a luna pro. the

luna pro's reading was approx 1/30 at f8 the reading my Sekonic took

was approx. 1/125 at f8. Obviously way off. If anyone can help PLEASE

get back to me. Maybe I should crack the lock off my wallet and buy a

brand new unit!! Thanks all!!

Hello, I need to find a column for a Bogen X-35B black and white

enlarger. I wanted to know if anyone knows where I can find one or if

there is any other column I can use in place of it. Thank you for

your time??

Hey all!

I am a 11 year vet to wedding videography and a photographer buddy

of mine approached me and wanted to know if I was interested in

shooting photojournalistic stills with my canon eos setup on the

side. He prefers Kodak Portra for his B&W's and I was just wondering

what you guys think of this film and if you have any suggestions on

others...Thanks!!!!!!

Hey guys! I am looking to pick up a canon 550ex for my 7e and I want

to go with a quantum pack for it. I was looking at a couple of packs

such as a turbo, turbo z, and the bantam 1+. I wanted to know which

of these you would recommend? I know there is a huge differance in

price between these packs and that is not a factor, however i'm going

to be doing some extensive photojournalistic photography and wanted

to know if you guys had any experience with any of the packs listed

in conjunction with the 550ex. Any thoughts would be appreciated!!!

Thanks for the advice guys!!! You were a real help in the decision of choosing the 1.4.

Hi all, I recently picked up a 7e with the 28-135mm and I was looking

to get a nice prime 50mm for it. Now I've found 3 50's that are

pretty fast (1.0, 1.4, 1.8) and I was wondering which would be best

suited for the 7e given the autofocus? Will a really fast lense (1.0)

affect the autofocus more so than a 1.8??? Also I was looking to get

the 100-400mm 4.0-5.6L is usm, any experience with that lense?? Any

thoughts would be appreciated.

This adaptor will work on any canon with an eos mount, however it is in fact an aftermarket.

I would like to know what the difference between macro and a normal

original canon fd to eos converter? is macro converters only for fd

macro lenses or can be used with all? Which is reccommended? Thanks

again!!!

It works, however you will have some problems. You will obviously lose autofocus as well as focus to infinity unles you have glass in the adaptor. You will also have metering problems. Most likely your picture will be underexposed at least 2 stops if you meter as if it were an ef lens. I was told by a friend to meter with the lens stopped down. However I have not yet tested it. Try to get the original canon fd to eos converter. They are rare but I was told you might be able to find one on ebay for approx. $200-250. I picked up a converter on ebay this week and thought it was an original, however I recently learned it wasn't. So look carefully at what you are buying. The aftermarkets work but I heard not so well. Anyway I have a question posted on relatively the same subject on the canon EOS forum. The guys gave me some really good advice...

Here is another photo of that same mount...<div></div>

Here is the fd to eos mount I found on ebay. Original...or not???<div></div>

bob,

the aftermarkets are not rare, however canon discontinued the mount i believe in 2001 or 2002. I tried looking in b&h and they noted that they are unavailable due to discontinuation.

Jim, I actually found it brand new on ebay...I made sure it was not a grey market...If things don't work out with it, leave me your contact info at xdiehardx23@hotmail.com. If I decide to sell it you'll be the first to know.

Thank you for the fast response...Just to let you know, I have glass on the mount, therefore I will not lose infinity...Thanks again all!!!!

I own a 7E and I think the only thing you are going to gain is the eye control. In my opinion it has come in very handy in some situations, however if there is not enough light and your eye wanders some, the AF calibration can be a little annoying. Unless your 2a body has alot of hours on it and you desperately feel you need an upgrade the 7E is definately a great choice. Otherwise I feel that there isn't much to gain. If you want to look into the camera comparison ...go to your local canon dealer and ask for an eos booklet on the canon eos lineup so you can compare spects....

I own a canon elan 7e and purchased a rare canon fd to eos mount. I

want to know if the fd mount lenses are going to cause any problems

on my eos body? I know I might lose some metering control and AF...I

just don't want to do any damage to my eos system...Any thoughts

would be appreciated...Thanks!!!!!

If it were me, I would first pop in the tape you want to digitize in the camcorder then i would run the output directly to the tv. If the quality is good then the problem exists most likely in your software. Make sure all your capture settings are correct and make sure, after digitize, that your chromance (color) and luminance (contrast) are set accordingly within your edit suite. You also have to take into consideration that you are digitizing linear footage into a non linear system. You obviously are not sending the footage via firewire from the camera into the computer, so I imagine you are using another piece of hardware to bring the signal into the computer. Check and see if there is anything labled component and composite. What you want to bring you video through, being it is linear is composite input. What type of software/hardware are you using?

If you are going to be shooting alot of video you are going to need alot of hard drive space 80 gig +. You can buy a video storage unit or just get another hard drive installed dedicated only to video. You are also going to need alot of ram if it is a family computer. Get a good edit program....final cut pro...if you are really on a budget and you need a more amateurish program Adobe premiere will do the trick...

P.S. you can also use XLR's to transport audio signals to the switcher.

There should be an option in Pinnacle ver 8. Hardware is not usually the problem. You have to find your capture settings in the software.

A little background on me... I've been shooting weddings for approx 11 years and I work for HBO. With that said, I don't think you'll lose all that much quality running the cameras from a Svhs cable or RCA's. You can also try running BNC's from the camera's output, if you are using pro cameras, and not even bother with firewire. Run one camera (BNC) with audio (RCA) to the switcher and run the other cameras via BNC's to the switcher without audio. Video signal is video signal however you look at it. You might not have a problem with the noise, but i think you'll have to do a test shoot to see. On another note, If you guys are shooting a 4 camera shoot you might want to record to miniDV then non-linear edit after the fact using live audio off of one camera. It'll be easier for 2 reasons. One: you have guests at a wedding...alot of them, how do you plan on securing the lines to the cameras without drunk guests tripping over them. Hope you have insurance!!! Two: It is alot easier to add animation and other sources of video in a controlled environment. Also, reviewing your footage and the audio from the shoot is easier in a quiet room. I think you should rethink this idea. The B&G can wait a month or so for a better product especially if the prices you charge are going to be steep! For a 4 camera shoot I know they are... Artie

Wayne, I don't know if this answers your question but I own the 7e and in manual mode if you want to switch metering it's quite simple. On the film door is the meter button. Press that and rotate your command dial (near the shutter button) to which type of metering you want, then press your shutter button half way to get back to manual mode. It takes me about 3 seconds to do, so you can change it fast enough not to miss an important shot. The * is to lock your exposure. If you press it and release it will lock for 4 seconds. If you hold it down it will lock for however long you hold it. Once again I don't know if I answered your QU but I don't think the speed of changing your metering is a big issue.

I just bought the same setup but I got the 550ex flash unit. Anyway, I got a # of filters for my 28-135 mm. I got the tamron 72mm circular polorizing filter because I found the outer rotating ring on that filter seems to be smoother and it really gives nice effect. If you are shooting black and white go with a Tiffen med red filter, a med yellow filter, and a med blue filter. Aside from the Tameron filter everything else I have is Tiffen. I would also recommend getting a ND filter if you plan on using slow shutter speeds. DEFINATELY get the BP-300. I have it....its great!!!!! No need for the eyecup though. When you have to reload film you have to take it off because it is too big. Stick with the standard...