jorge_ituarte3

Check this out;

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004jPc

I must be honest regardless of how unpopular this may be. I have been shooting 100% digital for 2 years now first with the d60 and now with the 10D. When I first shot digital I was overwhelmed at (quantifiable) the image quality. The smoothness the color ect..

 

I think I'm going back to film this year. MF this time around. There is something missing from these digital photographs. I can't put my finger on it. A kind of dead stillness. Kind of like the difference between analog and digital audio. High end analog audio just seems more melodic. I see this deadness as much with the 10d as I do with $30,000 digital back for MF.

 

It's interesting that most of the work I sell is from two year back from film.

 

I'm very hesitant there is a lot to love about digital.

The three most important things with a DSLR

 

1. Mediocre optics on a DSLR are even more mediocre. Whatever lens you get spend 60 bucks on a 50mm 1.8 so you can see what you are missing with a Canon Consumer Zoom. All of the non-L zoom are awful on a DSLR. Most of the Canon consumer primes with the exception of a few are excellent. I'm not being a snob that's just the facts jack!

 

2. Good exposure is crucial. If you have shot slide film your there already.

 

3. Shoot RAW and learn the subtleties of photoshop especially USM techniques.

Stephano, you and I seem to be the only ones that see this. Everyone is else is "gaga" over C1. Shoot some relatively high contrast landscapes looks like a bad acid trip to me. Out of gamut purple and neon greens. Nasty posterization in the shadows about 60% of the time. It does seem to resolve a bit more detail than the Canon FVU and I love the previews but other than that most color output is awful. I have developed a B&W (B&W profiles made with the Pro Trial Version) workflow for it and it has been great for that. I don't know why no problems there. I bought the app about 4 months ago thought I was doing something wrong until I saw output from someone who raves about C1 for the 10D. His output was awful as well and he thought it was great. What can I say?

I think most of the problems described in earlier posts are symptomatic of Capture One and the 10d. Especially the out of gamut colors. I stopped using the app for my 10d about a week after purchase. Canon has proprietary information in there raw files that they are not giving to third party raw conversion folks. Despite the lousy user interface there is more under the hood of the Canon FVU that most realize.

 

I agree dynamic range could be better on the 10d but it's about the same as slide film.

I think most of the problems described are symptomatic of Capture One and the 10d. I stopped using the app for my 10d about a week after purchase. Canon has proprietary information in there raw files that they are not giving to third party raw conversion folks. despite the lousy user interface there is more under the hood of the Canon FVU that most realize. I use Breeze Browser (same code lybrary as Canon FVU better user interface).

 

I agree dynamic range could be better on the 10d but it's about the same as slide film. Maybe better.

Funny my 24 2.8 is tack sharp wide open and its sweet spot is f4. I've used the Nikon and Pentax equivalents and the Canon is much sharper. Image quality is on par with my 50mm 1.4. You have to have a bad sample. The Canon 24mm 2.8 is unanimously highly regarded. It is optically superior to the L zooms, no contest. The L zooms exibit higher color saturation especially the 17-40. Are you using this lens with a hood? Using wide angle lens greater than 24mm in AF for subjects at mid distance (15-30ft) is not going to work. You need to manually focus or use your depth of field scale.

Most Canon primes and L Zooms are better optically than the Sigma's. There are some exemptions in the EX lineup. Sigma lenses are not held together buy tape. Grow up!

I make no excuses about being rich nor American. I also make no excuses about being a devout capitalist. I earned every penny. I count my blessings every day. I contribute more than 10% of my yearly income to charity. And pray for those that are unfortunate. God bless America!

 

I'm so glad the "60s" are over and I can speak my mind!

Narrow depth of field is something I use quite often to emphasize my main subject. I think we are looking at lenses in a different light. I'm sure it would be a very useful range for a photo journalist or wedding photographer. Buy the way the Canon 24mm 2.8 is as sharp wide open as it is stopped down. I have this lens on my camera 70% of the time.

Why would you want to buy a 2.8 zoom lens you can only use at 5.6. That's a lot of extra baggage to lug around for no logical reason. The only reason to buy a fast lens is because you are going to use it wide open. On the other hand I understand that the Sigma 28-70mm 2.8 EX DF is a decent zoom wide open. I have never found this range in a 2.8 zoom all that useful. Realize that 70mm 2.8 is not considered fast by any standard. Why not get yourself the Canon 24mm 2.8 and 50mm 1.8. This combo will exceed the optics of an L zoom in this range. The two together will cost you about the same amount as the Sigma 24-70mm maybe a few dollars less.

The 24mm f/2.8 is a great lens.

Let's make it easy. Who is the best in the country?

Sergey, It's a simple question. I am seeking a recommendation not sociological discussion.

Apathy and lack of love for ones craft.

Apathy and lack of love for ones craft.

Was looking at some of the archived posts and was hoping you all

could recommend a good place in the Southeastern United States you

have had a good experience with recently. I am a little terrified at

sending out my lenses these days.

Yea, I guess your right looking at the table for the 100-300 f5.6L - EF12 is .32 and EF25 is .39... Well I learned something new. Thanks a lot Bill!

But that wouldn't make any sense considering the tubes I have seen for sale are 25mm 36mm ect.

OK Bill I think one of my two synapses went off. If I have a 300mm lens that intrinsically has a macro capability of .25 at min focusing distance of 4" it must have internally an extension of 75mm therefore to get a 1:1 from this lens I would need an extension tube of 225mm and would have a min focusing distance of 1". Am I right?

So in a nutshell. A lens which at its closet focus distance intrinsically has a macro capability of .25 and the extension tube EF12 acordoring to the chart with provide a magnification factor of .32 on said lens. Would I add .25 + .32 to get a .57 macro. Or is it just as the chart says .32 with the tube? How many mm is extension tube EF12? If I had an extension tube on this lens that was 2x the mm deep of EF12 would the magnification of my lens then .64 at half the min focusing distance of the EF12?

Also if someone could give me a more general explanation of the relation between extension tube size in mm and decrease in min focusing distance.

In regards to the chart. I don't understand what is meant by a magnification of .32 Is that .32x. On lens with a magnification of .25x that would give me a magnification of .08. I'm sure I'm not reading that chart correctly and sound like an idiot but please clarify.

Never really been into serious macro photography. So, I don't know a

darn thing about extension tubes. Educate me guys, what size does

what? In other words lets say I have a lens that gives me .25x at

min focusing distance of 4' what size tube would I use to get close

enough to get one to one, one to two ect....

 

I know a lens specifically for macro photography is best but I don't

do enough macro work and don't want another lens lying around.

If you want to keep it simple, light, fast and versatile. 24, 50, 200 and buy a Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300. I works really well on the 50mm 1.4 I never thought I'd say that but image quality is simply excellent. Never would have believed it till I tried it. Makes a perfect short telephoto for portraits on the 10d with extremely narrow depth of field if you want it and the flexibility of still having your 50mm. And of course you get a 280 f/4 on the 200mm f/2.8L. My wide landscape lens is a 14mm f/2.8 but that's another story. I'd say my most used lens on my 10d is the 24mm 2.8. I use it more than 50% of the time. So much so I'm thinking of getting the 24mm f/1.4L. There is nothing like having the creative flexibility of large apertures. Good glass does not make a great photographer but a great photographer does not limit his creative potential. It's just not in his nature to do so.