jpb

<p>Thanks, Chris. Unfortunately, Brewer Cantemello is incredibly expensive (I was quoted almost $500 for a very standard bag a year ago), and House of Portfolios makes custom sleeves, but a different type than what I'm seeking (theirs is open on the top and bottom edge, mine is sealed all the way around).</p>

<p>Any others?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a custom sized portfolio and am looking for archival quality crystal clear 14x14” sleeves to fit them.</p>

<p>Currently, I use a product by Prat Paris called #904 Cristal Laser Sleeve, which are made of polypropylene. These come in 17x14” and then I modify them by cutting 3 inches from the open end, and also trimming off the perforated spine attachment (very carefully). This option is ok, but because I have to cut off the spine attachment, it leaves a few edges a bit rougher than I’d like.</p>

<p>I’ve checked Light Impressions and other similar shops, but can’t locate quite what I’m seeking.</p>

<p>So… I’m wondering if anyone out there can point me to a high quality manufacturer who either offers a wide selection of sizes OR who might even custom make them for me.</p>

<p>Thanks!<br>

James</p>

<p>I have a layered .psd that originated from a file shot in 2007. I worked on it about a year or two ago, in Adobe PS CS, or maybe CS2, and currently I’m running CS3 on WinXP.</p>

<p>I just went to open the file to finally put the finishing touches on it, and Photoshop says, "Could not complete your request because the file is not compatible with this version of Photoshop."</p>

<p>The Open File status bar gets to about 20% before I get this message.</p>

<p>Anyone know a way into this file, without starting over from Raw?</p>

<p>Thanks so much.<br />James<br /><br /><br /><br /></p>

<div></div>

<p>Thanks to you both for the informative responses.</p>

<p>I went to buy a Canon 100mm 2.8 macro lens today (not the new L glass) and I was surprised by a feature that maybe I am just remembering incorrectly… please enlighten me:<br /> <br /> I have used this lens a few times in the past and could have sworn that its body was constructed of metal, not plastic. When I held a brand new copy of the lens today it felt lighter than I remembered (possibly inaccurately).<br /> <br /> Am I mistaken that this lens was at one point not long ago constructed with metal? (Would Canon possibly downgrade this model of lens in order to make more room in the market for the new L version?)</p>

Consider taking a bus tour and sitting on the upper deck (dress warmly). This will give you a good overview of the city and

some unusual angles. Then you can revisit the spots you like best after you're more familiar with the landscape. Some of

the bus tours offer all day hop on hop off, so if you see something you like, you can get off, shoot, and get back on later

with the same ticket. Also don't forget Brooklyn, we'd love to have you here.

I wonder if the exif data would show the cameras serial number and if the owner registered the product with Leica, then

the camera company might have a record of who owns it?

Check out SquareSpace and Photoshelter.

Never use a sharpie. There are nasty chemicals in there that fail any notion of being archival (except permanence). Instead

I suggest a similar but gentler pen called Archival Gold (it has no solvents that can damage a disc). Always label your cd

before burning it. This will limit damage to data.

 

I use what I consider to be the best and most consistently manufactured discs. They are made by Taio Yuden and I buy

them from the supermediastore.com. The ones I use are the plain silver. This company makes such a good product that, in

fact, many of the name brand discs out there are made by Taio Yuden and branded for those more recognizable

companies.

<p>

<p>You can also visit some Rights Managed stock photography sites and price out the terms they need using their calculators, to get an idea of industry standards.</p>

</p>

<p>Wherever the subject looks best is the angle from which they should be photographed (If you want to flatter them). Some angles (and focal lengths, for that matter) heighten, some shorten, some widen, some narrow the subject. I believe the angles you're talking about are a good starting point, given a normal or moderately long lens.</p>

<p>Check the connection between the flash and the hotshoe. Sometimes I shoot with a speedlight, quantum battery, and pocket wizard, and if the speedlight slides back a bit, the connections between the flash and the hotshoe get misaligned, causing this issue. It just happened to me the other day. Just make sure your flash is seated and locked all the way into the hotshoe.</p>

<p>Hope this helps. As far as I can tell, the biggest danger of this is if it goes unnoticed for a prolonged period, your strobe could meltdown.</p>

<p > </p>

<p>I use Ghost to take snapshots of my computer, copying all files, data, preferences, and settings at once, enabling a complete restore of recent states if needed. I also use Beyond Compare to mirror between drives. It’s inexpensive and pretty flexible.</p>

 

<p>Often, a work agreement states that it would be the client's responsibility to secure model and property releases. If releases are needed and you're expected to facilitate such releases, it wouldn't be unusual to charge your client for that service. In your case, from the minimal detail provided, it sounds like your client (The Police Dept?) might not need releases to publish photos of their (public) employees in their PR materials, but that depends a lot of on where you are, so definitely check the laws that apply to your locale. However, if you’d like to use the images for licensing beyond your client's expected usage, then you'll probably have to secure releases yourself. It’s always a benefit to do so beforehand, but in your case, if that's not possible, consider photographing each subject’s name/badge number so you’re able to contact them politely afterwards.<br>

Hope this helps. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Can you power the camera on using an AC adapter instead of batteries? And if so, maybe you could try reinstalling the firmware? I would also remove the lens, to eliminate any ancillary electronic connections...</p>

<p>This is all great info, just what I was looking for. Thanks so much!<br />james</p>

<p >I’m conceptualizing a street portrait project and would like the ability to print 4x6s for participants, on the spot. I need a very portable 4x6 or 5x7 printer that will give me decent results.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I envision the giveaways coming straight out of the camera (or off the card) and printed prior to any retouching that might happen later, but I’d like the print quality to be reasonable good. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Can anyone recommend a well performing portable 4x6 printer in the lower price points? I’m aware that the price of the printer can easily be overwhelmed with the consumables (ink and paper), so I’m not necessarily looking for the cheapest printer, but am seeking the best long term value.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I went to Staples today and they only had one. The HP A-536 (very inexpensive: 50.00). Anyone have experience with this? I haven’t seen sample prints and also have nothing to compare it to, so can anyone tell me where this model falls in terms of the quality available on the market?</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I’m not looking for a full scale dye-sub printer… this’d be used out on the street in an urban environment.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Thanks,</p>

<p >james</p>

<p>I recently had a problem with my Spyder2 that was partially caused by a conflict caused by my ATI controller, which wants to control all video and display settings. In searching through my registry I found that the ATI controller was loading with a runtime delay when I booted the machine. This meant that no matter what setting I had controlling my ColorVision software, the ATI controller was always jumping in afterwards and canceling that out. From the little I know about your set-up, it sounds like something similar might be happening, whereas you might have something in the registry that is rejecting your preferences for a calibrated monitor. I could have just gotten rid of the delay in loading the ATI controller, but instead I opted to delete it from starting up entirely in the registry.<br>

<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

 

<div></div>

<div></div>

<p >Problem Solved! Extra thanks to William, whose intuition led me to the right place.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >ATI Catalyst Control Center was interfering… and in RegEdit I found that it was not only running on start-up, but that there was also a runtime delay assigned to it, making it run directly after my Spyder software was loading the calibrator.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >After deleting it entirely from the registry, viola! My monitor is keeping its profile all the way past Start Up.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Thanks so much for giving me the clues that got me thinking in the right direction.</p>

<p > </p>

<p>Thanks... might have to try that.<br>

<br>

Now, I've finally located the color management tab in the advances settings of the Display Properties dialog. I was then able to set my new .icm profile as the default for my monitor.<br>

<br>

After rebooting the machine the Spyder Startup screen tells me that the profiles is loaded correctly and the screen snaps to it’s seemingly correct new settings... however, than after about a minute, the screen just suddenly reverts back to the original colors and I have to go back into the Profile Chooser to manually select the new profile again...</p>

<p>(argh! making progress but not the most fun way to spend a Saturday night!)</p>

<p>Now, I've found a setting at "Native" that seems to make my colors more accurate. I saved that .icm with a new file name and when I go to see it in the folder C:\WINDOWS\system32\spool\drivers\color, I find it there. When I reboot the machine, the monitor reverts back to its old, incorrect, color scheme and I continue to get the error show in screenshot #1. <br>

<br>

When I go into the Spyder Profile Chooser, I still see the error showing in Screenshot #2, but I do see my new profile listed and when I click on it, the then monitor corrects itself until I reboot again.<br>

<br>

I probably need to set my new profile for the machine as the default profile to load on startup, and I thought there was a "Color Management" folder in my Control Panel where I could do that. But, alas, it's not there. <br>

Then I thought that maybe I’d have to go into the folder C:\WINDOWS\system32\spool\drivers\color and activate the profile by right-clicking, but that doesn’t seem to be it either (seems like it is already installed and associated with my monitor).<br>

<br>

Anyone know how to set the default .icm without the Color Management folder?<br>

<br>

I really hope I can load the new profile every time I book that machine and that I can get rid of the errors telling me no calibration data was found and there are no profiles associated with the monitor.<br>

<br>

Thanks again!<br>

James<br>

</p>

<p>Thanks. Unfortunately, I tried a few reinstalls earlier... no good.</p>

<p>Since I’m running Adobe Creative Suite CS3, Adobe Gamma is not on the computer (I think I heard Adobe stopped bundling Gamma after releasing version CS). I double checked by going into msconfig/Startup and don’t see it there.</p>

<p>Your responsiveness is greatly appreciated, as this is driving me nuts!</p>