andrew_hull

<p>I have Nikon Scan running on Windows 7 64-bit without any work around or anything. Downloaded and it works. I don't know how. I ran 100 slides through the SF-210 last night while out to dinner.</p>

<p>Adrian:</p>

<p>I did this very thing about 8 months ago. It was much easier than I thought. Here's what I learned. Firstly, I had the computer built and posting, but didn't know it because the cord that LaCie sent me for the monitor was broken. So I couldn't see it. So essentially I had the computer up and running first try. Secondly, I would recomment buying an SSD to run your apps. I already had a hard drive fail in the machine, but because the apps were on the SSD, I was able to runa back up before it completely puttered out. Also, you can use the SSD as your photoshop scratch drive, which makes it very fast. I also have two back up drives. I would recomment using newegg.com to build, and read the reviews of the cases and parts. It is really nice to have a computer with only the software that I want on it. I highly recommend it. I went with a lot of RAM (12GB) and a faster processor, at the time, the second fastest i7. I figure I saved about 50% from Dell build AND got better components. I havve no computer background other than simply usage. There are a lot of resources ont he internet to help. The move nervewracking part for me was mounting the heatsink on the CPU and using the paste to mold the two togther. But it wasn't that difficult, I was just nervous because it was working with the actual chip. Good fun, I highly recommend it. Now I can upgrade components if I want without any problems.</p>

<p>So I think I'll stick to having a "raw file" for each topic. Then I'll have a file where I'll put the files as they are cleaned (if they are scans) or converted to dng if they are digital files. Then I will tell Lightroom to put print files in the print files folder and web files in the web files folder. All the while bearing in mind I want Lightroom to retain control over the print and web files also. And I can tag the photos as "unprocessed" in some way so when I'm done archiving (SOME DAY!) I can work my way through various folders. Sound good?</p>

<p>One thing to bear in mind here, for me at least, is that I'm archiving about 15 years of negatives and the date isn't a readily apparent piece of information.</p>

<p>Tim: Mind sharing what you teaked. Looks like you made it a little colder, no? It was an overcast day. Kind of foggy</p>

<p>Tim:</p>

<p>Thanks for your patience in this thread. I am on a calibrated monitor.</p>

<p>So I could just put them in my current structure it soundslike.</p>

<p>Tim: I think my settings are off in PS so I'm not embedding the colorspace correctly. I'm trying to figure it out. Also, I only scanned a few in vuescan, so I think something is off there, also. I've been reading up on how to handle color in Viewscan, so up next after scanning all my 6x9 Tokyo stuff (that stuff in the pbase account is a couple of them) I am starting on all the color stuff from Vietnam that I've been dabbling in. TOO MANY VARIABLES! AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH :)</p>

<p>Also, I like the colors in the two boys photo. I'm not sure its that off from what I remember. I know I'll not be inclined to shoot Ektar100 ever again. Ewwwww. Most of all, I want to be able to represent some color consistently among a trip's photos.</p>

<p>So it sounds like my best organization would be to keep a raw file. Then put the dng files from digital camera capture and the negatives where I have cleaned them into a file that Lightroom sits on. Then, the print files I create would go in that "Print files" file above. Does that make sense? And web files, do they also sit aside from the original like a print file? or is there simply a sidecar-ish file that shows a jpg that I can point to when I want something on the web?</p>

<p>So I use the following organization for my files.<br>

Topic (e.g. Tokyo)<br>

1. Raw Files (these are scans and/ or digital captures)<br>

2. Clean Files (these are files that have been cleaned from scanned)<br>

3. Print Files<br>

4. Web Files<br>

I'm getting confused about using Lightroom in that I'm not certain what happens to the files as I work on them. I understand that if I have a capture from my Canon, that I can "import" it from the file it is in, say the 1. Raw Files folder, and have it convert to a .dng file. But what happens once I work on it? Does it stay in the same place? What about files for printing? Does Lightroom segregate them? What if I want a file for 8x10 print and a file for 11x14 print? How are those two files presented in Lightroom?</p>

<p>Confused.<br>

Andrew</p>

<p> </p>

<p>And here's the two boys on the road, sorry guys.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5267/5626082692_1d66c4b99a.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Sorry Tim, I was reloading the photos on Flickr and had forgotten that pulling them would break the link. My Pbase account I haven't touched in a long time. Here's my morning attempt at a neutral version...</p>

<p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5269/5627686436_77a0a820cf.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="332" /></p>

<p>Tim: Thanks for the guidance. Would you mind explaining the curves? How do I know where on the curve to adjust? WHen you say "boost the red" and "pull back on the blue in skin region" is that done only through curves? How so?</p>

<p>Also, I'm pretty sure I'm working in Adobe1998. Is it that you pulled it in in sRGB? Or am I set wrong?</p>

<p>Tim: Thanks for the guidance. Would you mind explaining the curves? How do I know where on the curve to adjust? WHen you say "boost the red" and "pull back on the blue in skin region" is that done only through curves? How so?</p>

<p>Also, I'm pretty sure I'm working in Adobe1998. Is it that you pulled it in in sRGB? Or am I set wrong?</p>

<p>Here's another attempt. Does it make sense that I picked a swatch that should render as neutral grey and attempted to use the channel mixer to get it close to 145,145,145? This is the result.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5624981141_58638b9d37.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Tim: When you say that you sampled for WB in the mothers teeth, do you mean using the eye dropper in curves or levels? Is there a reason you didn't use the white in the hat?</p>

<p>Can I open a TIFF file in ACR?</p>

<p>Howard, I've worked on the photo using the method of threshold layer and marking back point and white point. What do you think?</p>

<p>http://flic.kr/p/9z4o5C</p>

<p> </p>

<p>@howard, I've basically tried playing with the color levels. Can you explain getting the color sample from the white band? Is it basically getting the RGB reading using the eyedropper or is there a more automated way?</p>

<p>I was stuck shooting C-41 on recent trips and a film that I don't really like. I'm having a bear of a time trying to get a neutral look from them in Photoshop no matter what I do. Any suggestions? The Angkor Wat is Fuji Pro400H and the 35mm photo of the boy is Kodak Ektar 100. <br /> http://flic.kr/p/9yZEdx<br /> http://flic.kr/p/9yZE2Z<br /> Edit: I tried to embed photos and couldn't get it to work :(</p>

<p><img src="http://flic.kr/p/9yZEdx" alt="" /></p>

<p>Any news on this working for Windows 7?</p>

<p>Nikon scanners are discontinued. They are still supported.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses everyone. Just as an FYI, I have done a fair amount of scanning and processing before, but I'm working with software compatibility issues between my Mac and Nikon scanners, and getting my LS-8000 fixed. Bottom line, I've order parts to build my own computer. I've elected for a set up very similar to what was suggested earlier, but decided to get a lot of RAM. I'm also leaning towards an Epson 3880. I found a refurb LaCie monitor and already have calibration equipment for the monitor, so I'm in good shape there. Now, I just need to get my scanner fixed and start scanning :) Off to Nikon it goes....</p>

<p>Problem with the basic desktop is dealing with files that are 800MB and up output by the 8000. Also, my issue with the 3800 (and 3880) for that matter is a tend to print 8x12 and 12x12. Roll printing would be beneficial. Thoughts?</p>

<p>You have 35mm and 6x6 and 6x9 black and white and color (transparency and negative) film totaling about 1500 rolls of film. Your budget is $5K. What scanner, computer and printer would you chose?</p>