rick_quiroga
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Posts posted by rick_quiroga
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<p><br /> I am using both Vescan and Nikon Scan 4.03 in 64 bit Windows 7 with no problems.</p>
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<p>Sorry, the image did not post.</p><div>
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<p>Here is an image I took on with a Nikon F100 on Provia F. It was scanned with a Coolscan V ED. Thiswas taken with an old Nikkor 300mm non ai f 4.5 Lens and a Tamron 1.4 teleconverter. I've replaced it with a 300mm f 4.5 ais ed Nikkor. If your interested in the non ai I will let you have it if you pay shipping. It has been notched so that it woun't damage the index tap on any camera. Not ai'd.</p>
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<p>I sent a Nikon 18-35mm ed f 3.5 -4.5 lens to<strong> KEH</strong>. It was dropped on to a sidewalk face first with a Nikon F100 attached. Some gears were stripped inside which locked the focus and zoom rings. It was gone for 3 weeks and was sent back to me in better shape than when new. The actually fixed a little hitch in the zoom ring that made the zooming action un equal.</p>
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<p>Taken with a F100 + 18-35mm ED Nikkor, On Fuji Provia 100F - Scanned with a Coolscan V ED at 14 bit. Converted to B&W in Photoshop. Corpus Christi Bay</p><div></div>
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<p>I have a 7 year old F100 which I have had great lluck with as per damage. I was once running to catch a bus when I tripped and landed on my F100 on concrete. The only damage to the camere was a small gouge on the pentaprism and 4 broken ribs in my chest. IU have also dropped from the top of a suburban onto a sidewalk. Unfortunately it landed on a corner and cracked the edge of the battery compartment. This both happened several months aga and the camera is still working great. A little epoxy and flat black touch up paint and you have to look very closely to see the damage. Best camera I've ever owned.</p>
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<p>I used a Nikon V ED to scan an old kodachrome slide that has never scanned properly due to high contrast. Did a 3 sequence scan inNikonScan 4.02 varying the analog gain from -.3 to 1.6. Combined them in Phototix Pro 3 and the end result was pretty much what the slide looked like. Tried the same thindg in CS4 and got pretty much the same results</p><div></div>
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<p>Still plenty of oportunities for photos in the evening for outdoor photographers.</p><div></div>
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<p>Well my 2 cents say all this talk about what is superior or not could better have been spent on taking photographs. Use what you feel comfortable with and what gives you the quality that is acceptable to you.</p><div></div>
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<p>Use a rip in order to get nuetral blacks. I use QTRgui and get nuetral blacks with this printer. On Glossy paper pretty much looks like the attachment.</p><div></div>
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I use Quadtone Rip for printing B&W on my Epson 1400, I get nuetral b&W prints with a full tonal range.
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The FEE error could also mean a loose connection between the lens and camera body. I have a sigma 70-200 f2.8 that started to exhibit this error on a F!)) and D40. I checked the connections and notice 3 loose screws. Once tigntened I have never had this problem again.
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I use the 2.8 adaptal version. I have no problem with setting exposure using the histogram and or LCD.
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I use the adaptal version of this lens with a Nikon D40. It won't meter withis lens but it's very easy to zero in the perfect exposure using the histogram or the lCD monitor.<div></div>
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Does anyone know about scanning Astia as opposed to Provia 100. I usually shoot Provia and at times have a problem with excessive contrast.
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Try Analog gain if you have it on the Minolta scanner. I use it with Kodachrome 64 on my coolscan V ED and it brings up the shadow detail nicely.
Wildlife photography without having to rob a bank :)
in Nikon
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