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r.w._behan

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Posts posted by r.w._behan

  1. <p>Thank you both for your help here. Yes, the 8800F scanner uses plastic holders very similar to the 9950F example shown. For mounted slides, however, the holder does NOT elevate the film above the glass. But the cardboard mount serves that purpose. Now I can envision a buckled slide that MIGHT touch the glass and produce the rainbow. But in the sample I'll try to insert below, I checked very carefully: there was NO buckle in the film, so I'm still at a loss about these crazy rainbows. (I may not succeed in inserting a sample, but I'll try.)<br>

    A few moments later: well, I did manage to insert the example. It shows just a short green smear, but there was a whole rainbow spectrum before I cropped most of it out. What do you think, folks?</p><div>00VkdF-219879584.jpg.aa5e4410191cc0632113fa27a9266284.jpg</div>

  2. Andy, I shot Yashicamats for a good number of years, long enough ago that I bought them new. Yes, they made some noise winding, but I never had any problems with failure. I kept the cameras for 2-3 years until a newer, fancier one came along--with, say, an attached light meter. And used them fairly hard, but only in amateur status. I'd say keep shooting and don't worry. Those cameras were EXCELLENT values, and I wish they were still in production. (Maybe the Seagull is equivalent; dunno.) Anyway, good luck with your 'Mat.

     

    Dick Behan

  3. Need to get my RB67 out of my hands, or off my neck. The tripod I'm

    looking for is the Bogen 3251. If the one you'd like to sell has a

    3047 head, let's talk. If it has no head at all, let's talk, but if

    it sports some other head, are you willing to sell the tripod

    separately?

     

    I'm an old duffer and fairly well set in my ways, but also open to

    well-considered suggestions.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Dick Behan

  4. Well, I think MY problem was getting lax and lazy with the fixing process. Tonight I developed the first rolls since my original post. I used fresh Rapid Fix, and fixed the film the suggested 4 minutes with frequent agitation. Not a hint of the purplish tinge this time--just the normal slight film-base fog. Thanks for all your help.

     

    Dick Behan

  5. I'll weigh in on the side of the RB. I'm not a wealthy man, but I'm retired and could afford either. The simplicity and reliability of the RB won hands down, and the results are breathtaking. The sharpness and clarity of the K/L lenses (and the "C" 50mm.) are amazing, the shutters from lens to lens are consistently reliable, and the big mirror seems not to be a problem. Yes, the camera is heavy, but easily hand-held, particularly with the adjustable grip holder. I'll second the motion for buying from Robert White. I bought my camera, 2nd hand, from White and highly recommend that source, for both price and service. Cheers.
  6. I've been developing Tri X in D-76 for decades, and using Kodak

    Rapid Fixer. The film margins have always been fairly clear, with

    just a bit of "film base fog". Lately it seems the margins have a

    purplish tint. Has Kodak done something to either the film or the

    chemicals lately? Or am I getting a bit sloppy and not fixing the

    film properly? (I try, anyhow, to follow the 2-4 minute routine in

    the instructions.) TIA

     

    Dick Behan

  7. John, I think you've made a good choice. I've used Tri-X for about 40 years, developing always in 1:1 D-76. Now this may seem curmudgeonly and stubborn, but at least I have a fairly good feel for a rigidly standardized combination. About a year ago, getting back into B&W again rather seriously, I discovered B&H and their imported Tri-X. Bought it. Used it. Like it. Can see utterly no difference in the film. Carry on.
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