andy10

I think all your requirements cannot be met in a low cost system.. You may want to check the Mamiya RZ pro.. these can take a digital back.. they will be cheaper than the rollei and hassy. but built like a tank and weigh like tank.

 

I would rather take a rolleiflex TLR and scan my films to digitize my pictures.. This would be for fun and creative stuff.

 

I think for most of other reasons I will continue using a 35mm full frame DSLR.

I have not used this software but this looks can be used to control the EOS DSLRs using PC/laptops..

 

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0605/06052001breezeremote.asp

It depends on what you want to shoot.. If you are looking only for star trails, a normal 50mm f/1.8 lens will do.. In case you want to take a picture of moon upclose, you would need a longer lens >=400mm.. Usually for most of the other celestial objects you would need long exposures and that would need a tracking mount to track the motion of the celestial objects..

 

there is a brief guide to astrophotography by canon (http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/astro/index-e.html) it is not very good but still a good beginners advice.. there are other guides available at www.cloudynights.com

 

Good luck..

 

regards

Andy

Canon 100mm f/2.8 lens is on everybodies recommendation.. I guess if you are looking for longer working distance, the Tamron 180mm macro comes very close to Canon 180mm macro.. It has good optics, lighter and cheaper that canon.. They also have less compatibility issues than other non-canon vendors.

the Peleng fisheye has the same effect even on film.. the top and bottom is slightly chopped off.. As Rainer said it is probably due to imagecircle of 27mm..

I have used Sigma 400mm f/5.6 APO HSM version on canon film cameras - eos 1v/30/5/88 and it worked perfectly.. I think the focussing was good (HSM) - fast and not too loud.. as expected it would hunt when used with 1.4x on eos 30/5/88 but was able to focus well on eos 1V..

 

It works pretty well on EOS 10D as well.. I haven't tested it on any other bodies.. recently I traded it with canon eos 200mm f/2.8 as I needed 200mm focal length more than I use 400mm..

 

It has a very good price/performance value..

Hi

 

I am looking for a film body and have an option to buy either EOS30v

or a used EOS 3 at almost the same price.. I would like to know if

EOS 30v with enhanced technology and ETTL II support is a better

choice.. Or the EOS 3, 45 point AF will beat the eos 30 AF

performance.

 

regards

Andy

If you are using film cameras or full-frame DSLR go for sigma 8mm circular fisheye to get perfect golfball images.. Peleng lens is nice but has the chopped top and bottom of the circular view..

If everyone could own primes, then there would have been only primes.. but sometimes you want to get going with just one lens - light, versatile zoom range and good optics..

 

It certainly has an appeal specially as a standard walkaround lens.. I always felt that 28-135 IS was a little limiting at the wider angle and a 24mm is just nice.. Yeah I would wish it would have been a 24-135mm f/4 L IS... Not too much attracted by the IS, but the L and the zoom range at a constant f/4...

A sigma ... and that too a zoom.. :-))

i agree with both jean and henrik.. 50mm on DSL is longish and you may probably look at either a 28mm f/1.8 or 35mmf/2. both of them perform pretty well at low light and are not too expensive.. I have used a canon 28mm f/1.8 which performs fairly good even wide open.

I found that the 100-400 IS is a bit sharper at the 400mm range.. However having owned lenses which covered focal lengths upto 280mm (using 200mm+1.4x) it didnt make any sense to overlap that range.. I got a dedicated 400mm lens...

 

if you are planning to get either of these lenses for birding, I would think that something longer than 400mm would be needed.. try looking for 500mm or something like Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 zoom..

Hi Luis, you have to ask yourself based on the type of pictures you take.. Besides the 1.3 crop and the robustness of the 1series, teh 1D is more suitable for sports and action photography.. In case you dont do much of sports/action stuff, you probably can survive with 20D. You are perfectly right in saying that 20D is a newer technology and has faster processing, startup and noise reduction specially at high ISO levels..

 

Ask yourself, what is your kind of pictures you take and then buy the camera to support your requirements..

 

Happy shooting

Kathy.. you will certainly need a wide angle there.. 17-40L is pretty expensive, I would recommend you a 24f/2.8.. it is much cheaper, good performer and pretty light too.. performance/cost it is one of the best lenses...

 

:-)) though that 180deg fisheye suggestion was good.. I never though I could cover 360deg with just two shots..

 

Enjoy your trip..

Hi

 

I realised that the price of a used 1Ds is almost similar to that of

1DMKII.. Give the choice that both of them are available at the same

price, which camera would you recommend to buy..

 

Is the 11Mpix resolution and full frame of 1Ds advantageous over the

later technology and faster write speeds of 1DMKII..

 

Thanks in advance

thats a nice picture.. are you allowed to take a picture inside the mosque..

Hi

 

I tried searching a review comparing the performance of Canon

200/2.8L+2X combo with the SIgma 400f/5.6 APO HSM lens.. I know that

200f/2.8L is certainly one of best lenses and with a 1.4X extender

it can provide fairly good picture quality.. But I want to hear if

the performance of this lens with 2X extender is comparable to that

of the Sigma 400/5.6 lens..

 

I have a sigma 400/5.6 lens and am thinking of replacing this lens

with 200/2.8L which can also fill the gap between 135mm and 400mm

focal lengths I currently have..

 

thanks in advance..

Have you thought about the tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens.. Its cheap (compared to canon), light and performs wonderfully.. I would advise you to put you money in this lens, you wont feel the need to get the canon 100mm macro lens..

 

There are couple of other options you could think of for macro - (1) try extension tubes or (2)try getting reverse ring which could allow you to reverse mount your 50mm/1.8 on your 85mm/1.8..

 

happy shooting.

Give it a break guys.. nobody can manufacture 100% defect free products.. when humans are involved there may be some slips up and down.. Even if you take two lenses from same manufacturer (different batches), you might found some differences.. So dont fight over which has more defect.. your lens is perfect only as long as you have not encountered the defect..

 

yes.. Incompatibility between lenses and bodies is something we should consider, but then every has a limited budget..

 

I am satisfied with Sigma.. they have rechipped all my lenses (FOC) to work on my newer bodies even though one of my lenses was 5 years old (out of warranty).. What do you say about that level of service - simply marvellous...

 

happy shooting..

Hi Suman

 

I agree with the other poster.. the 100mm macro will be a better choice.. though it will leave a big gap between the 50mm and 100mm.. I usually carry my 28-135mm on my annual vacations in India and I seldom needed to use anything beyond 135mm.. You would be using your wide angle most of the time or the 50mm for street shooting..

 

Happy holidays..

I think he presumed that canon DSLR mean the DSLRs with 1.3x factor(1.3 x 8mm = 10.4)... probably he is using a 1D range DSLR.. On all lower end DSLRs 8mm would equate to 12.8mm...

 

Dont know how the sigma 8mm works on the DSLRs but on my film cams it works great.. I got a brand new for just a $100 more than peleng lens, so I opted for it..

Nature combo -- you do not have too much choice with that selection.. The only possible combination looks like 17-40Lf/4L and 70-200 f/4L.. You could chose the 10-22mm but that would leave a wide gap from 22mm to 70mm focal length..

Gosh.. this thread makes me feel that slowly photography is becoming a highly technical field.. much more like software programming..

 

Are we seeing a gradual death of old days photography for fun.. Now photographers spend less time taking the shot and more time post-processing them..

Hi

 

I ma having some problem while loading film in one of my old camera

body EOS88.. When I load the film, instead of loading the film, the

camera rewinds it back into the film cartridge..

 

regards

Hi Igor ...You should consider the zoom (28-135) for its versatility and convinience. As someone pointed out, you may need 28mm, 50mm, 85mm and 100mm primes to cover that range.

 

I personally find that there is a big gap between 50mm and 100mm and you will need a 85mm to fill that gap. the 85mm is a wonderful lens for its price and is must if you are looking at shooting portraits..