d._chan

<p>I like the Fuji DL Super Mini Zoom also. I got it to replace my Minox 35 GT-X which I couldn't get fixed properly. Couldn't afford the Contax and when I was buying, Fuji had a rebate on it so I think it cost me less than $150. I still have one that I dropped because of the slippery metal body so now the sliding lens cover is only attached on the bottom. Everything still works though. The zooming is a little noisy and there are too few distinct zoom settings from 28mm-56mm. I still have the nice marketing pamphlet that I picked up at a photo show for the Fuji. I bought one for my brother and he never used it so he gave it back to me. Now I have my beat up one and a barely used one in great shape. After I dropped my Fuji, I thought I could replace it with a Konica Lexio 70. It had a 28-70mm lens and nice specs but I don't think the camera nor the lens is as nice as the Fuji. I have a Yashica T2 that I bought new years ago but it must be malfunctioning because I haven't had good results from the last few rolls. I'm playing with a beat up Olympus Stylus Epic right now that I got for free. I may try to get my hands on a friend's Canon Classic 120 which I know he doesn't use anymore since digital. Wondering if any Rollei QZ 35's will show up at KEH or at auction. I wish the Contax cameras would get cheaper so I can finally buy one after all these years of lusting after them.</p>

<p>Some cameras (the ones with LCD displays) have an internal battery that keep information such as frame number, film speed, maybe some user settings in memory. This is so that when you change the main battery or when it gets weak, the information would still be stored. Since my film cameras are not used as much now, what should I do so that the internal battery is kept in working shape? Just keep batteries in them and check for leakage occasionally? The internal battery is usually not user accessible and it is charged by the main battery so I'm afraid if that battery goes, I may need to send it in for service to get the camera working again.</p>

<p>Look for the original accessory CV case for the 15mm. I pick up one a long time ago from KEH, used. I don't remember how much I paid so it must have been pretty inexpensive. It is a hard black leatherlike covered tube case with caps at both ends. It's about 4 inches long. One side holds the viewfinder with foam cutout and the other side holds the lens.</p>

I've never used it but the Contax RX has a focus indicator in the viewfinder and it seems to be a well regarded camera. I have an AX but I don't remember is there is a manual focus indicator. I don't use continous AF mode so it works fine for me.

I just went to the post office. One roll to Kansas from NY, without the plastic container. After asking if there was anything hazardous, fragile, do I want insurance?..., it came out to $1.17. The receipt didn't have any detail on how it all added up.

Here's a news article on the two camera stores in NYC. For those that don't

know what the Zagat surveys are, they are mostly known for surveys of

restaurants, but they have been expanding to other areas. I knew about B&H's

plans to expand but not Adorama's.

 

http://www.ny1.com/ny1/content/index.jsp?stid=53&aid=69785

I've been shooting APS with a Canon EOS IXE and lots of surplus film that people have given to me. I have used ABC (Mystic people) Lab but they use Fuji paper. Turn around for APS is a but long but they can print full length panoramics if requested. Dale Labs also can do APS and I think they use Kodak paper. Clark uses Kodak paper but I will never use them.

I started using ABC Color Lab this year after using Mystic (pre-Clark) for a long time. E-mail communication was good. They use Konica/Minolta paper. Quality is pretty good. Only thing I have an issue is the turnaround time. Before, with Mystic, if I sent film on a Monday from NYC, I could expect my prints back the next Monday. With ABC, I would receive an e-mail that they received the film about a week and a half after sending it, then another week there would be an e-mail saying they had shipped my prints. A total of about 3 weeks. Really hate that it takes so long but the prints are nice.

The reason why companies don't like instant rebates is that the store may not give it to the customer and keep the money. They won't tell the customer unless they ask about it specifically. Also, what's to stop a store from claiming more rebates from the Canon than they actually sold in a period? Rebates lower the price for a consumer but the store has stock that was purchased at a higher price. A store can claim a rebate for items not sold yet or not during the promotion period.

Pop Photo compared a skylight, an 81A, and a Tiffen 812 filter. I think they preferred the skin tones from the 812 in open shade and flash. I remember seeing the photo comparison and there are noticeable differences. Anyway, Tiffen used to make a multi-coated 812 but I don't see it anymore so if you want to buy one they are pretty inexpensive. I bought a 46mm one and remember someone looking down at me for buying a Tiffen filter. I would say that the effect is more noticeable than a skylight and it is a different tone than an 81A so you would have to decide if you like it or not.

The lens cover moves to the side when you press the shutter to take a photo. You can slide the cover gently with your finger to the side to clean the lens if you want. Doesn't seem hurt as it feels like it's kept in place by a spring. It really doesn't get dirty that way. I bought one of these years ago and recently tried to use it for some shots. The battery contact on the cover is loose on mine, the viewfinder has dust inside, and the case is pretty dirty. It's heavy for a p&s and the noises it makes while taking a photo is very loud.

It's $0.39 for the roll and $0.13 for the non-standard envelope handling surcharge, total $0.52. That's what I pay at the post office when I don't include the plastic container (sometimes the mailers are a little too small to include it).

I was going to wait for one of the Microsoft Origami units and see how they are. I was going to look at one of the Epsons but for the price, it's only a little less than the origami's with a bigger screen too. I don't know how much bigger they are to the Epsons though.

Thank you Mr. Clark. I tested it when I got home and it works as you described. It's a little slower than the focus part but it does change the masks as it's supposed to. The viewfinder is dim, even with the 50mm 1.8, but it's not bad outdoors. I was concerned because I tried asking Canon USA and they sent an email saying that it shouldn't happen, it was a internal malfunction, and I should get it serviced. I'll assume that it was because it isn't a USA product and they didn't have enough information about it.

I just purchased a EOS IXE (Japanese IX with eye-control focus).

Don't have a manual but figured out most of the controls since it's

very similar to other EOS bodies. My question is that after I

achieve focus with eye-control, the letters "C" "H" "P" show up on

the top part of the viewfinder all at once. It doesn't matter which

format is chosen. I don't know how common this body is to this forum

but I hope someone can tell me the significance of the display so I

can be satisfied that it normal and not have to return it.

Everything else seems to be working great. I really wish Canon could

use the IX body form for a digital SLR camera.

Happened to my 10D. Was on the phone Canon for a while. Finally sent it to fix under warranty.

I usually change my lenses by feel without looking. Sometimes one handed, with the body lying on top of an open camera bag by my side. Most of my current lenses have recessed rear element so the worse that can happen is some scratches in the black paint on the mount. I guess I have to be more careful with this lens. The reason I asked is that the particular lens I looked at had scratches in the glass and wondered about the design.

I removed a 28-135 IS lens from a 20D body and was surprised at how

unprotected the rear element was. It is pretty flush with the

mount. Does anyone have problems scratching or smudging the rear

element while changing this lens? I don't normally shoot with Canon

and my lens changing technique is usually quick and sloppy so this is

a concern.

I have the same problem on my S3 Pro but I noticed it only happens in the slow speeds. Practiced firing the shutter without film in the camera and realized that I needed to keep the shutter depressed until the frame was fully exposed. I had been only pressing down until the exposure started and then let go to try to minimize shake when hand holding the camera. Try it to see if it may be the cause of your problem.

That does make sense. They were trying to sell their teleconverters as mount converters with a bit of modification. I wondered what the electrical contacts were for so I guess it was just their stock EOS mount.

I picked up a Yashica/Contax to Canon EOS mount converter a while

back from Kenko (directly) pretty cheap. It seems they also made

Nikon-EOS, Nikon-Minolta, Nikon-Pentax, Canon FD-EOS, Canon FD-Nikon,

as well as Yashica/Contax-Nikon adapters. The instructions were in

Japanese and Kenko USA could provide much help. It seems pretty

straight forward. There is a glass element resulting in 1.4x

multiplier, and even had some electrical contacts. Nicely built,

front and rear caps, and a pouch. I also purchased a Yashica/Contax-

EOS adapter from Cameraquest last week. It was very simple and well

made.

 

Does anyone have more information on these Kenko converters? Why did

Kenko manufacture it with a glass element when it really doesn't need

one? My guess is that the other converters in their line needed one

so they had to make them all similiar to charge roughly the same

price.

I don't use either Canon nor Nikon but this spot/partial metering thing does come up a lot. I think Popular Photography tested the spot metering on one of the Nikon's bodies that claimed 1% (I don't remember which one) and it measured around 7%. I think that was what the person was referring to earlier as marketing bs.

Turn the exposure mode selector to "CF"

 

For the two side by side buttons, the left one is "down", the right one if "up"

 

(Fn 1) Exposure check button 0=display exposure check, 1=exposure locked when pressed

 

(Fn 2) Multiple exposure method 0=set the number of multiple exposures 1=number of multiple exposures set by using the drive mode selector dial

 

(Fn 3) ABC bracketing order 0=Standard, Over, Under 1=Over, Standard, Under

 

(Fn 4) Stop down button O=Stop down when pressed 1=stop down when pressed once, press again to fully open again

 

(Fn 5) Film leader out 0=Fully rewind 1=leader out

 

(Fn 6) Rewinding 0=Rewind with lever 1=automatic at end

 

(Fn 7) AF supplemental light 0=turns on if needed 1=does not turn on

 

(Fn 8) Focus beep 0=Sounds when focussed (SAF) 1=no sound

 

(CLE) resets all functions to 0

I think the reason for the EF-s Macro is mainly marketing. Photographers are not Canon's customers, the stores are. They want things that will sell easily. You can use the current EF macros now on the DSLR's but think about what a sales person can say now: "This is the new macro lens, just came out, made for digital, especially for your camera, etc". Look at all the commotion over this lens already. Could Canon have gotten all this buzz over the current macro lenses. This is not for people to convert but to sell to all the new owners of DSLR's that may not be as knowlegeable or care about compatibility. Besides, now Canon can add another lens to the pile in their print ads that show all their lenses to make their "system" appear larger.

FYI, sales tax in NYC is 8.625%