mark_peters

Though I read this forum nearly every day, I've never posted a photo

here because I own neither a flatbed nor a film scanner.

 

I don't want to elicit (yet) all the detail I would encounter by

posting this question in the "Digital Darkroom" forum.

 

So, I'd like to simply ask those who post photos here, what are you

using? Flatbed for prints? Film scanner? If so, which one? A one

sentence reply will be fine. Thank you.

That's correct, it's the MD-12. I've started to use it on my FM which is a close "cousin" of the FM3a. I would only add that the MD-12, with batteries, is heavier than your camera now. The difference in weight will be quite noticable. You may find this a useful counterweight to heavier lenses in some situations. At other times, you'll want to detach it and enjoy the compact, lightweight system you have already.

After many years I have "re-inherited" my grandfather's Nikon S2

rangefinder. Dating from about 1956 it is still in jewel-like

condition and functions perfectly even after years of non-use.

 

Do any of you know the function of the synchro dial on this camera?

It has settings for x, and then 60 through 1000. Do I set this to

match the selected shutter speed? But with a flash synch speed of

only 1/50, what is the synchro dial actually doing?

Just received a used MD-12 in great physical shape from a reputable

camera broker in Long Island.

 

I think it is working fine except the ONLY time the pilot lamp is

illuminated is when the shutter is fired. Shouldn't the pilot lamp

come on whenever the power switch for the unit is on and not just

during the moment of shutter release?

www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_repair_service

 

Again, I don't know if he is in Canada but Sover is one of the top F2 resources anywhere.

Thomas Distributing does have an outstanding selection and excellent service too. The Nimh Maha or Powerex batteries are fine choices but you could save yourself time and shipping expense by going to your local Target, Best Buy, etc and picking up the Energizer 2100 mAh Nimh batteries. These are actually made by Sanyo in Japan and have rated very high in independent tests of Nimh batteries. I use them exclusively now and have not observed any problem with the voltage difference.

 

The Maha chargers are still the gold standard.

The Sunpak 383 is an excellent choice too. New, about $70 through B&H.

I read in this forum once that an inexpensive substitute for the Omnibounce is to buy a standard bottle of rubbing alcohol from your local drug store and cut off the slightly bulbous, bottom portion of it. That's the end that fits snugly over a Vivitar 283/285 or a Sunpak 383 and provides suitable diffusion. Seems to work as well as an Omnibounce for a fraction of the cost.

Here's an additional thing to do, strange as it may sound. Smell the lens! If you pick up any hint of mustiness or mildew there could be fungus lurking inside even if you don't see it. I learned the hard way.

Your budget is right in line for a used Nikon FM and 50/1.8 lens. While the body dates back nearly 20 years, it remains a timeless classic. The 50/1.8 lens is a sharp as a tack.

 

For another $50 -- $100 you might be able to get the FM2n, only slightly improved over the FM but likely much newer.

 

keh.com is a great source for used cameras online.

Maha chargers are excellent for this.

 

See www.thomas-distributing.com for more info.

 

They are THE BEST source for all things battery related.

Try: soverwong@yahoo.com

 

I don't know if he's in the U.S. but he collects F2's, repairs them and seems to know everything about them. If he isn't near here, I'm sure he could send you in the right direction.

The store has been around a long time and they are good folks to deal with. I was in the store (Canoga Park, California) about a year ago to buy a Bogen tripod.

I have a Nikon FM and a 200/f4 AI lens.

 

There are times when I would like a little more reach than this

lens offers and have considered the TC-14 A/B 1.4x or the TC200/201 2x

teleconverters. (Actually, not sure which of each is most

appropriate.)

 

I know that I'll lose one f stop with the 1.4x and two with the 2.0x

and I can live with that since I would be using them outdoors in

daylight.

 

What concerns me is the big disparity in pricing between the 1.4x and

2x suggesting that many people aren't very pleased with the

performance of the 2x and so you can buy them inexpensively.

 

What experience do people on the this forum have with these

teleconverters on a 200/f4 AI? Is the performance of the 2x converter

so poor that I should remove it from further consideration?

Tom--

 

Your current setup is almost identical to mine. I have the 35/2.0 AI and find it to be the perfect middle ground between the 50mm and the 24/2.8 (which I also highly recommend).

 

I'm a fan of several Series E lenses but my research indicated little enthusiasm out there for the 36-72. With the primes you have plus the 35/2.0, you really don't need this so-so zoom anyway.

The roll films originally sold for this camera were Polaroid Type 42 and Type 47. The latter was an ASA 3000 film! I would estimate the camera was first sold in the early 1960's.

I have an FM and struggle with this too. The diopter correction eyepiece helps a bit but isn't perfect unless your prescription has zero correction for astigmatism. Even so you have to fuss with taking your glasses on and off a lot.

 

The bigger issue with the FM for me is the film advance lever sticks into your face/glasses. Is one solution to this to get the MD11 or MD 12 motor drive and then the meter will operate with the advance pushed all the way in? I seem to recall some people saying that, in addition, the FM just "feels better" in you hands with the motor drive attached.

I too recently acquired a Nikon FM as my first 35mm SLR though I am a few decades older than you.

 

FWIW, I built the following system of Nikkor primes around it.

 

24/2.8 Ai'd

 

35/2.0 AI (my "normal" lens)

 

50/1.4 AIS

 

100/2.8 E, AIS

 

200/4.0 AI

 

This gives me what I would consider a pretty classic Nikon system from the late 1970's, early 80's. These are by no means the greatest pieces Nikon ever produced but they are exceedingly well made (yes, even the E lens)and and produce great pictures. All these lenses were in "excellent" condition or better and in total, came to under $575.

 

Conclusion--for a small sum of money you can build a very classic set of Nikkor primes. And you already have one of the great Nikon bodies of all time.

I have the 100/2.8 and could not be more pleased with its feel and performance.

 

On the subject of the Series E lenses, does anyone have experience with the 36-72/3.5 zoom? I never see any mention of it on this board unlike the 100 and 75-150 zoom mentioned above.

A number of regulars to this board have noted recently a decline in

the market value of used MF Nikon gear, calling this a "buyer's

market." To anyone with a collection of such gear, or intending to

acquire more, this is either a curse or an opportunity.

 

I was hoping to explore the "why" behind this price trend. Is this

simply a reflection of the current anemic economy and so when the

corner is turned we might expect the value of Nikon MF gear to follow

suit?

 

Or, have we finally reached the turning point where surging interest

in digital/AF gear will increasingly outstrip the demand for classic

Nikon bodies and glass so coveted by the readers of this board? If

this is so, then prices may not recover anytime soon. To the

contrary, the current price deflation may be here to stay. Depending

on whether you are acquiring or disposing, this may be a critical

time.

 

Any observations?

In the Los Angeles area, Samy's Camera (a branch near Wilshire center and another in Venice) is a highly reputable source.

While I have not done business with them personally, I have read nothing but positive comments about pacificrimcamera.com

 

I have bought from KEH and endorse the comments above. KEH is by no means the lowest cost vendor but they consistently overdeliver on product condition.

An excellent choice and a great deal. I recently bought the same combination for over $300 from KEH camera brokers in "excellent" condition.

 

The FM is surely one of the greatest manual SLR cameras of its era (late 70's, early 80's). As it has only a simple meter arrangement, it will force you to learn the critical relationship among shutter speed, aperture and film speed.

 

Have fun learning about photography with this gem of a camera.

Based on all of your excellent feedback, I determined this was a factory AI'd lens. I elected to keep it and KEH made a fair adjustment in price.

 

24mm certainly opens up a whole new perspective!

 

Thanks to all of you for your time and expertise.

I just received a Nikkor N.C. Auto 24mm f2.8 lens from KEH for my FM.

 

"Bargain" condition, but as usually happens with them, it's in much

better shape than advertised.

 

I didn't ask for a N.C. Auto lens, just an AI lens. What do the

terms "N.C. auto" mean on this lens and do you think I should return

it and have them to send me what I ordered?

 

Perhaps, this one is a better unit. Again, it's in really nice shape.

 

Any advice?