mark_peters

<p>The closest to how it would be pronounced in Japanese would be to say "knee core" with the first sound spoken short and with stress.</p>

<p>Sweet...how often does a deal like that come around?</p>

I'm surprised no one mentioned Canoga Camera (in the San Fernando Valley) which currently sports a perfect 10 rating on reselleratings.com. If you do go the online route, B&H is the class act.

 

www.canogacamera.com

I travelled to Zambia and Zimbabwe in June 2001 on a trip organized by Tony Lopes. You can find his site online at www.africaonsafari.com He has decades of experience arranging travel/tourism in Africa and I cannot imagine going there with anyone but Tony. If you do contact him, please say hello for me. Thanks.

The Domke wrap is nice but easier and cheaper are the wool or acrylic caps that people use for skiing. They fit around odd shaped items like cameras and offer a fair amount of bump protection to boot. The cap is much less hassle than a towel or shirt which won't naturally conform to an odd shape like a cap.

I went to Turkey in March. You will need a current US passport and then you will buy an entry visa sticker at the airport in Istanbul. The fee for US citizens is $20 cash. I found the Turkish people to be enormously hospitable. At no time while in Turkey did I feel at risk or in danger. In fact I felt much safer than if I had been visiting a major US city.

My wife and I and our five year old visited Turkey in March for the total solar eclipse. Part of that time was spent in the historic area of Istanbul where you will be.

 

First of all, we were delighted with Turkey--it exceeded every one of our expectations.

 

As for places to visit, the grand old attractions noted above are the ones to see if you have but four days.

 

For inexpensive but excellent food, go to the Doy Doy restaurant, near the Blue Mosque. Both locals and visitors know it well. While dining there, we ran into the author of the Lonely Plant guide book for Turkey. He said he always eats at the Doy Doy while in Istanbul.

 

We never had any concerns about our personal safety in Turkey, even while walking on deserted streets late at night. To be sure, you will be plagued at all hours of the day or night with salesmen trying to lure you to rug shops. These hucksters are nonstop and irritating but harmless. Good luck trying to keep them at bay. As a whole, the Turkish people are most hospitable. I cannot count the number of times complete strangers helped us with our son's stroller up or down stairs or getting onto the trolley.

 

I used a 24/2.8 on my film Nikon for 90% of my shots. If I had an 85, I would have used that for the other 10%. I didn't and so used a 105 instead. One body and two lenses simplifies your life a great deal.

 

Enjoy Istanbul, we can't wait to get back.

How about the Domke FA-031 "Post office" shoulder pad? About $13 and has velcro tabs that allows it wrap around any shoulder strap, not just Domke. Does a wonderful job of cushioning the weight on your shoulder.

I went to Disneyworld (Florida) a few weeks ago and you don't need to sneak in anything. They will make a cursory physical check of backpacks and purses, etc. Cameras and lenses are quite acceptable. But unless the weather has eased up I pity anyone carrying around a heavy lens in the oppresive heat and humidity. I had a vest the first day and couldn't wait to shed it. Do yourself a favor and carry as little as possible!

Historically, the most common household circuit is capable of delivering 15 amps, or 15a x 120v = 1800 watts. If your home is older, you can be nearly certain all but the specialized outlets in your home are rated at 15 amps (1800 watts).

 

In most homes, esp. newer ones, some kitchen outlets are rated at 20 amps, or 2400 watts. These often feed the refrigerator, microwave, or garbage disposal and are dedicated to these appliances.

 

If you don't mind turning circuit breakers on and off from the box and seeing what outlets they control, you could find out exactly what the circuit is rated since it is stamped right on the breaker switch.

 

A final note, the amp rating on the circuit breaker is for ALL outlets and devices that are part of the circuit. So if you intend to draw close to the maximum, you may need to turn off everything else on the circuit.

I know from personal experience these drives can be "touchy." No one has mentioned it, but the manual has a section on troubleshooting which talks about what to do when your drive is non-responsive. This assumes your drive is attached the camera.

 

1. Turn off the power switch on the motor drive

2. Fire the shutter button on the CAMERA, but don't wind the camera

3. Now turn the motor drive power back on

 

At this point the drive should advance to the next frame.

 

This sequence works for me. Apparently the drive sometimes gets "confused" about where it is in the cycle and this clears it up.

Silica gel packs and similar materials can be useful when equipment is being stored in airtight (or very nearly airtight) containers. I might consider them if I was storing equipment in a old-fashioned heavy suitcase or one of those aluminum cases that seal very tightly. But in any other situation, there is no device that can keep the air inside your bag drier than the air outside the bag--there is simply too much continuous air flow taking place. For an analogy, suppose you were in a smoke filled room and you had a device in your camera bag that absorbed smoke. How much reduction in smoke, if any, would your equipment realize?

I also own an S2 with f5cm 1.4 lens. My serial numbers are very close to yours.

 

On my unit, the shutter trigger acts as one would expect at all speeds, even those 1/30 or slower. You depress the shutter button and it fires whether you leave it depressed or not. Yours may have something sticky going on inside.

 

I don't completely understand the flash synch operation of the camera but then again I don't use it for flash photography.

 

These are gorgeous cameras to behold--the workmanship that went into them is evidenced by how they held up over the years.

You should check out the Lighting Equipment and Techniques forum of Photo.Net. In the event you can't find the answer archived there, someone is likely to know the answer.

I suspect all that metal in your pocket resulted in the terminals of that one cell being shorted out. That's what any battery will do when shorted. The other cells are probably fine. It isn't a good idea to carry batteries in the company of metal where they can be shorted like that.

You are correct that there are two versions of this lens. The earlier one has a black plastic mounting ring while the later ones have a chrome ring that is more similar to a traditional Nikkor lens. The two verisons share a common optical formula. All else being equal, I'd opt for the latter chrome ring version. But I would not pay much more for it.

I want to inexpensively experiment with portrait photography and

intend to use an 80A filter with color daylight film. At this point,

I'm primarily interested in learning about the effect of different

light placements.

 

What common sort of "hardware store" bulb would come closest to the

3200k color temperature I'll need? I've read that household

incandescent lamps run about 2700k. Does anyone have experience with

indoor PAR flood lamps or halogen bulbs or something else that would

work better?

Any suggestions where to send a Nikkor 35/2.0 AI to get the helicoid

lubricated? Optically fine but the focus ring is starting to get

that "paper-y" sound and feel.

 

I'm in Northern California but welcome suggestions about good

experiences you've had anywhere.

Good point, Michael, I didn't say that right. It isn't more difficult to focus at any given focal length, it's so just much more difficult to work with a prime lens + close up because the working depth of field is fixed and very shallow.

Your should consider the close up attachments made by Nikon specifically for their standard 52mm mount. The 4T is a +3 diopter and the 3T is lower (can't recall offhand). I own the 4T and it think it is an excellent value at $29 from B&H.

 

By the way I don't think you will be very pleased with the macro capability offered by either of these on a 50 mm lens. To get any sort of useful macro result you would want to be closer to 100mm. I use my 4T exclusively on a Nikon 75-100 Series E zoom. A prime lens with a close up filter is very awkward to focus.

Take a look at the review of the 100/2.8 E at Ken Rockwell's site for an interesting discussion of the 100/2.8 E vs 105/2.5 AI-S.

I am considering the purchase of a manual focus 400/5.6 prime (for

Nikon)and see two variations offered by KEH.

 

One is the "RMS" variation and the other the "SD." (The SD is a bit

more expensive for the same condition.) In their photo, the SD has a

thin red band, the RMS does not.

 

Can anyone tell me the difference between these two Tokina models and

if you have experience with either.

This board has convinced me, lens hoods are a must.

 

What would you suggest as coverage for the following three lenses. I

suspect there is a best one for each of the three, but is there one

that is a good match for, say, two of the three?

 

Here are the three I'm concerned with for now:

 

Nikkor 24/2.8 N.C. AI'd (the early 70's version with chrome barrel and

black scalloped focus ring)

 

Nikkor AI 35/2.0

 

Nikkor AIS 50/1.4

I have the Sunpak 383 but I think the size of the flash head is identical to your Vivitar 283.

 

I read on Photo.net sometime ago that if you cut off the bottom of a standard drug store bottle of isopropyl alcohol, it will fit this head perfectly and provide nice, soft diffusion. I find that it works just fine. I think you'll agree this is a budget solution!

I've been fortunate to view two total and several partial solar eclipses in the last several years and each time used shade 14 welder's glass. This is one of the few absolutely safe ways to view the sun. Please be wary of folklore about using any common household items as a filter. The damage to your eyesight can be catastrophic.