d_daine

Hypo, wash, agitate in photo-flo mixed with distilled water, then see-saw the film through distilled water a few times and hang to dry. The key is the last rinse through distilled water and not wiping the film.

With photo-flo, I mix only enough so that if you swish the solution with your hand, bubbles appear and then quickly disappear. I rotate the film on reel through the photo-flo solution for maybe 5-10 secs. only.

Without the final rinse of distilled water, I got dry marks.

cheers,

Ciro was founded in 1940 to produce a fairly novel, rugged, all metal TLR using American lenses and shutters of original design for the Sears-Robuck Co. After filling the primary contract of roughly 30k units Ciro continued to mfr. the TLR originally called the "Marvel-Flex" under its own name as the Ciro-Flex (model A). WW2 ended the run, and Ciro went on to mfr. fire control equipment. After WW2 ended, Ciro-Flex production resumed with Models B,C,D,E,F until 1950. At this time, patents, tools, etc. were sold to the Graflex Corp which in turn produced the Ciro-Flex under the name "Graflex" with minor cosmetic changes. Several thousand units were also produced under contract for the De-Jur corp. with cosmetic changes under the name "De Jur Reflex". Overall production totalled about 250k units between 1946 and 1953. I know that most came with Wol. lenses and many in Alphax and Rapax sunchro shutters. How do I know all this.... I'm reading it out of the catalogue from R. Pins. Looks like E+ is worth about $50 with a 400 Rapax synchro. I'd bet the book on Graflex (Morgan & Morgan) would also have some info.

cheers,

Interlock _usually_ means you cannot activate the shutter until the film has been advanced, this prevents multi-exposure. With some cameras, you can open the back and simply simulate the action of advancing the film thus releasing the interlock. This 'simulation' may involve rotating a roller or whatever your camera uses. Don't force anything, if it doesn't move easily chances are that it is not supposed to move. Your best bet is a manual.

cheers,

That ring is what you use to focus the camera. Seized focus on Agfa folders is apparantly quite common. See http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/index.html for more info.

cheers,

For filters, use a Bay1 to 49mm converter and standard filters. see

http://members.aol.com/gdwnphoto/index.htm With the adapter you'd

also be able to use a 49mm hood. There are also Bay1 to series 5

and 6 adapters... you could go that way for filters and hoods. As for

tele/wide adapters, these were made by many manufacturers, but the

best is probably the Yashinon.

<p>

cheers,

Although I don't have any experience with the Polaroid cameras (I

always _assumed_ they needed to be converted to use current film),

another neat option is the Crown Graphic 4x5 with a graflok back.

This camera will take a 405, 545, or a 550 Polaroid back. Polaroid is

lots of fun.

<p>

cheers,

If you do decide on the Yashica, go for one of the models with the

Yashinon lens. The only real advantage of the Yashica is the weight

and perhaps the price (for non 124G models). I also think that a

cheap hand-held meter is better than the meter in most old cameras,

including the 124G. IMO, the C330 or even the 220 is a better value,

especially for an "advanced amateur". The Mamiya has interchangable

lenses, much better built, better viewing screen and is still serviced

by Mamiya. There was a "budget MF" thread here not too long ago.

This is advice from the Equinox home page

<p>

What? Only a few holes? Be advised that they may multiply like

rabbits, but you can get along for a

long time with patching. Forget the tape. Forget the silicone. Mix the

below formula and daub it, using a

small brush, on the INSIDE of the misbehaving corners, with the

bellows stretched out as far as you will

be pulling it. Let dry. This material turns out DRY and FLEXIBLE: 1

thimblefull white Elmer's glue,

two drops dish detergent, & a couple drops liquid lampblack [paint

stores, in tubes; used to color paint]

<p>

cheers,

There is a product originally designed for coating the handles of

tools (pliers, etc.). The product comes in liquid form so it can

easily be brushed on, is waterproof, flexible and comes in a variety

of colours. I can't remember the trade name but I've seen it at Home

Depot and many of the factory supply centres. Although I've not used

it (except on tools), I can remember reading somewhere on the net that

this is what folks used.

<p>

cheers,

<p>

cheers,

My advice is to do your homework on any item you wish to bid on. This

means knowing the item, the value, and what questions to ask. Never

assume. Your 'fair condition' may be someone elses 'excellent

condition'. Also, many of the 'sellers' are more like dealers in that

they have no idea if the equipment operates properly (they've never

used it).

<p>

cheers,

The slowest shutter speed for hand holding any camera and still

getting sharp negatives really depends on who is doing the holding.

Your best bet is to tripod the camera and shoot, then hand-hold and

shoot. Shoot 3 or 4 at each of the slower hand held speeds and see

how repeatable your results are. Judge the prints to see what is

acceptable to you.

<p>

cheers,

Whatever you get, make sure it works perfectly. Getting some of the

older cameras repaired may cost more that it's worth. There are also

some semi-modern SLR cameras which may fit it in the $500 category

such as the Mamiya 645 and Bronica ETR. My vote goes for the Mamiya

C220/330 TLR with a black lens. These are expandable, affordable,

still serviced, good glass, leaf shutters, 6x6, 120/220, lots of used

gear available, quiet, close-up capable, and very solid. These

cameras are also awkward, heavy, slow, no backs, and have some

problems with filters. Photography is an endless list of compromise.

<p>

cheers,

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/broncleaning.html

<p>

cheers,

Although closup photography is not my main interest, I have done some

with a Mamiya 330 and all but the 65 and 105. The 55, 65, 80, 105 and

135 will all focus closer than 3' with the 55mm focussing at about 10"

covering about 2.5"x2.5". With the aid of a paramender, the Mamiya

TLR is actually a good system for closeup photography. My results

were very good although never "extreme closeup". As for the "S"

lenses, see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/index.html and the link to

the Mamiya TLR site. I think there was an 80 3.7 S in a Copal shutter

which was an "economy" version, there was also a 105DS which had depth

of field preview and is a newer model (from what I hear is quite good)

and a 180Super also a newer design and quite good (check the link, I

may be wrong). I've shot with every lens except the 65/105 (no S

lenses except the 180Super) and all performed very well, the 55 and

180Super are excellent. You will need the paramender for closeups.

<p>

cheers,

It may just be an accumalation of "shutter gunk" over time,

especially if it's only on the taking lens. I recently came upon an

old press camera lens which looked terrible.. cloudy, what appeared to

be heavy cleaning marks, debris, etc. A couple of minutes of

disassembly and some lens cleaning solution proved it to be just

shutter gunk and very light cleaning marks on the outer front element

only. Many "older" cameras are like this... they don't get used

often, rarely if ever serviced, cloudy optics, sleepy shutters and

other moving parts which tend to stick. I'm sure the Rollei fans of

the group can recommend a good person for a CLA.

<p>

cheers,

Although my equipment is not "modern", from what I've read,

seen... modern lenses are better optically. Modern lenses have better

quality control (less chance of getting a dud), computer design and

manufacture, and they're simply newer. The big question is how much

better and is the difference in price worth it to you. You may want

to rent a few of the newer systems and see what you think of them

first hand.

<p>

cheers,

BTW Don't forget to use that lens hood

>>enough! I've used 4X5 to Minox and finally it dawned on me, I really

>>need to focaus less on equipment and more on the art and

>>composition. Each format has advantages and compromises. So, when I

>>I can honestly say, that minimalism works best, for me - at this

>>facts that: A) The best camera is the one I used to help produce a

>>truly gorgeous picture. B) A great photographer can make a P&S

>>camera result look great! C) I can never have enough gear :-) ! D)

>>I'm always learning and having fun when I can interact with others

>>on this

(above post edited)

<p>

Yes! Unfortunately, for some of us the hobby is the equipment itself

and not the photography. Perhaps the equipment today is so easy to

use and of such high quality that we have become lazy and don't bother

to think. I'll admit that I too am a recovering equipmentaholic and

pledge to think more and buy less in the new year.

<p>

"In a clutter of equipment lies the way to aesthetic, as well as

economic bankruptcy. Nothing can so distract one from the main issue

in an art as the piling up of incidentals that go along with it. In

photography this mania for equipment has gone to the most absurd

extremes" A quote from William Mortensen sometime in the 1930's.

Mortensen was a minimalist. When I get the "itch" for more equipment

I sometimes buy more books, the above quote was from one I'm now

reading.

<p>

cheers and best,

You can use a Bay 1 to 49mm converter (see formatcamera.com).

The converter will allow you to use cheap 49mm filters and

even hoods. I believe there were also Bay 1 to Series 6

converters. The series 6 filters, hoods, and the like can

be found at most photo swap meets for very little money

(I paid around $5.00 for a set of 6 user filters in a case).

I'm not sure if either of these will fit on the taking and

viewing lens at the same time, therefore you'll probably have

to rig something up for a lens cap. I believe the series 6

filters (minus the holder) are around 41mm.

<p>

cheers,

The "type" of photography (landscape, head & shoulders portraits,

full length portraits, street, close-up...) which the system will be

used for will certainly influence purchasing decisions. Need more

info.

<p>

cheers,

For B&W in 120... choose something that is readily available, close

to a speed which will handle the majority of photography which you

practise, develope and print it yourself, and STICK WITH IT. I'm sure

you'll receive all kinds of advice about films, times, developers,

EI..... but the only way to get good results is to make the mistakes,

learn the film, and judge for yourself.

<p>

cheers,

Try Goodwin Photo on the web.

<p>

cheers,

If the camera will be on a tripod, perhaps a 4x5 Crown would

be a better option. The 4x5 has a larger lens board, the

difference in price is very little (if any), and the 4x5 Crown

is very portable. Another camera that might fit the bill is a

Super Speed or one of the Mamiya press cameras with movements.

<p>

cheers,

Just curious as to what your favourite old folders are and why. I am

especially interested in ones with good glass, more than 3 shutter

speeds, and non-rangefinder versions.

<p>

cheers,

According to DOF charts published by Mamiya.

<p>

55mm @ F22 focussed at infinity = 5'11.5" to infinity

55mm @ F22 focussed at 7' = 3'4.75" to infinity

<p>

cheers,