todd_k.

Juliana,

I learned about lightning in the theater. I believe that this gives me a somewhat different outlook on studio lighting. Forget about studio lights, and flashes and guide-numbers... for now. Go to the Home Depot, Lowes, or Wal-mart and by four clamp lights. And put at least 100watt bulbs in them, they are rated lower then that but you should be OK, However do not consider me responsible for any fires.

Call a friend to have them pose, hang up some black fabric, turn out the lights, and then turn on one of the lamps and play, watch how the light changes the look of the models face, then turn on another lamp, and repeat the process until you run out of lamps. Shoot B&W and see what happens. Latter, there are many books that discuss the principles of studio lighting, but I have found that learning the nature of light and the way it can be used to create certain effects makes learning the technical aspects of lighting much easier.

For what it is worth I think a Photo.net could use a comprehensive lighting tutorial as well. Somebody should ask Timber to give it a shot.

Good Luck,

Monolights are the thing right now but have you given any thought to pack/head systems. Check out the auction site, there are great bargains to be had on Speedtron (think Brownline), Photogenic, and Novatron gear. They offer a wide array of accessories, expandability and creative control. People complain about the cords, but monolights still have to be plugged it to something. A normal 800-watt speedotron kit w/four heads and a few accessories (more then enough for individual portraits) usually sells for between $550.00 and $650.00, or more if stands, soft boxes and umbrellas are included. Adorama and Freestyle both have great deals on stands, umbrellas, and soft boxes, (if the kit doesn�t come with them already). If you ever decide that you need more power, you can add a more powerful (used) pack to the system, instead of spending a fortune on another monolight. And if you decide that you want to unload it all, you should be able to get your money back. You should also think about the servicing prices, (like the ease of bulb replacements). You will out grow that wein meter in no time. Get a Polaris flash meter; they are cheap and infinitely more useful. You will also need backgrounds, just start off with your basic black and white. Do not under any circumstances waste you time and money trying to buy "professional" black backgrounds. Check out some theatrical supply companies, you can usually pick some 9'10" wide black Duvetyn or Commando Cloth for under $12.00 per yard. The muslin is about half that. If you want to start doing studio photography, don�t get junk, because if you do, you will hate it and you will want to replace it. Your goal of under $1000.00 is easily attainable. Just take your time, do your research, and make wise purchases.

Good luck.

Is it just on her face, or is it her whole body (arms, legs, ect)? If it is just her face, it could be her make up. Some types reflect back too much light resulting in a pale almost scary look. To often photographs of very beautiful women are ruined simply because of the makeup they are wearing. You also might want to make sure you are using a very diffused light source. If all else fails try shooting B&W, under natural lighting, or use Photoshop to correct the problem.

Good Luck!

I am looking at a Konica S2 and a Yashica Electro GSN. Both have

been professionally overhauled and are in excellent condition, and

come with a warranty. The Konica is more expensive. I have read

numerous articles about both cameras but none that compare to two.

Any help would greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Koni Rapid Omega 100, or 200 (200 has the option of changing the backs mid roll). Why? Perfect 6x7 format, 120 or 220 backs, Leaf shutter sinks up to 1/500, and because it is a rangefinder there is no mirror slap. Very reliable. You don�t need any auto-stuff; just get a good hand held light meter, Polaris makes a good one that happens to be very affordable and can be purchased from one of our Photo.net sponsors.

Cons: its a little heavy, no real good rotating flash bracket options(though the camera itself has three cold shoes), and the 135 portrait lens is a little hard to get.

I have Flexaret VI; I have found it to be a good TLR with a sharp lens and reliable shutter, though the viewfinder is a little dim. If you decide to go with the VII be careful, while they have more modern features, they are also more complicated and possibly prone to failure. On any model, don�t go nuts when winding the film and always fully depress the shutter. Never use ammonia based cleaner on the lens, it will mess up the coating. If you get one of that four letter auction site, get it from a reputable dealer, (cupdog or praha camera are a few). For more information go to http://www.meopta.cz/ or www.prahacamera.com.

Good luck,

Darth Vader and Hitler just kicked in my door and destroyed my darkroom, exposed all my film, and cut my cameras in half. Then they treated me with my life if I don�t get: a) a chip implanted in my hand and b) a brand new super expensive doomed to be obsolete in year digital camera, all by the end of the week, they would kill me.

Maybe they got to Mr. Sakamura too.

Mr. Fromm,

Thanks for helping out a MF newbee. Coming from a 35mm background the transition to MF has been alot easier with all the pearls of knowledge contributed by thoses who regulery post on Photo.net.

I got a used Vivitar 2500 a while back and it does work. I can only assume that the flexaret VI has full time electronic flash sync. Lovin these sharp MF negatives.

I have to second Alec on getting a handle, I got a handle for my TLR some time ago and can say with out a doubt it has been the best accessory I have purchased thus far. I have also found that wearing a hat with a reasonable brim helps shade the groundglass and therefore brighten the image. As far as quick focusing goes, well my man that comes with time. If you are like me, and only shoot one or two rolls a week it may take a several months to get good at it. It is real easy to get gear crazy and lust for a new camera every couple of weeks when what you should be doing is taking pictures and becoming proficient with what you have. The lessons you learn using a TLR will have a positive and lasting impact on your life as a photographer. Just stick with it and have fun.

-Todd K.

Sorry guys, I should have been more specific in my original question. I have searched the Internet, and have found a lot of valuable information. Several weeks ago when I looked at the manuals Mr. Fromm referred to,(my Spanish is horrible) they seemed to speak of the same M and X sync lever. I am certain that my camera does not have one. It has the F-stop, the focusing lever, shutter speed, and a self-timer. No M/X sync lever.

Thanks,

Todd

I Just got my first medium format camera. It is Meopta Flexaret VI

TLR in great condition. Does anyone have any experience with a flash

on one of these? What works? (I should mention that I am a poor

college student) with that in mind could I use a Vivitar 283 on it?

How accurate is the Flash Sync? The max shutter speed is 1/400. Does

anyone know where I can get a fully Translated Manuel. Any other

general Meopta info would be nice. Any info will be greatly

appreciated.

Thanks,

Todd K.