jasonsmith

Frank,

Does the Stratos bracket enable you to rotate the camera as does the stroboframe.

I am wondering if it would it be worthwhile purchasing a hardware

device such as the 'Spyder' to calibrate my monitor accurately. Is

that process difficult.

Or would it be better to get a pro in (at around 200 AUD per hour)

to do it for me. It seems that they would both cost about the same -

the difference being I could use the hardware / software again down

the track.

In all honesty - I dont think anything output from a printer will ever acheive the quality of a beautiful silver gelatin print on fibre based paper.

That isnt to say that you cant make an exceptional image with your setup. Some films scan better than others. I know of very succesful photographers who shoot on TCN400 (C41 processing) when they intend to scan negs as it is a little flatter and apparently scans better. Havent used it myself though.

I have stared shooting some weddings and could really use a good

sturdy flash bracket.

Some people have suggested the Stroboframe series. I have looked

them up online but without physically seeing one its difficult to

tell which one would work best.

I am in Australia and havent come accross anywhere that sells

Stroboframes.

I have a Nikon F100 and SB24 / Metz CL45

I want to be able to quickly move the F100 from Horozontal to

Vertical quickly without turning the whole bracket / flash.

If you register a domain name but dont yet have a web site - can you

then use your domain name for email. eg If you

registered "myname.com" - could you configure an email such

as "john@myname.com", or must you have a web site set up first.

Cheers

Gopi - If you have a Metz flash (depending on the model) it should have an aperture setting. So if your camera is set to F11 then set the flash to F8 or F5.6.

You could also try diffusing the flash with a softbox or bounce accessory such as those from Lumiquest.

Am wanting to build my own website to post my travel images.

Does anyone know of any sites that contain templates for photography

web pages. I was thinking some type of Frame setup would be

appropriate.

I would be a little dubious about buying pro slide film in Kathmandu - its unlikely to have been refrigerated.

If your going trekking you wont find any pro slide film in the mountains so Thamel might be your best bet.

Enjoy Nepal - It's an amazing place - there is so much to see and of course photograph.

Anthony,

A polarisor will help - but you need to be careful about when you use it. Sure it will darken skies and saturate colours by polarising reflected light. Be careful with wide angle lenses as you may end up with half light / half dark sky. You dont always have to wind it on fully - sometimes a little is good.

For landscapes I often use an 81B Warming filter in front of the polarisor to get even more saturation. It's good to take some with / some without.

Use a good saturated film like 100VS, or Velvia.

Oh - three more things. If you choose slide film - be sure to bracket important shots - you may burn a little film but it's cheaper than travelling back there to get the right shot.

Secondly - takes lots of film - and shoot whatever you like - Film is cheap compared to the cost of airfares.

Thirdly - it's tempting when in such grand landscapes to always try and shoot the big panarama's, or the postcard shots. Pull your zoom or macro out every now and then and get close up looking for 'symbols', little things that will conjur up an image to the viewer about where you are.

Cheers

Erwin - no film / filter combination will make up for bad or harsh light unfortunately though depending on whether you are travelling solo or with an organised group you cant always easily control where you will be.

Firstly I would invest in a good saturated professional film. Slide Film will give you greater saturation but is a little more difficult to use - in bright conditions you may need to bracket your exposure a little. As far as slide film goes I use Kodak 100VS for landscapes ( I find it has a little more latitude than Velvia ). If you want prints then a cheaper alternative is Fuji Reala as someone suggested - It's a very warm film.

As far as filters go you should be able to get away with a polarising filter, and an 81B Warming. I often use both for landscapes to increase saturation even more.

It's a good learning curve if you can to take some shots with filters, and some without making notes of what you do. That way you will become instinctive about how your shots will come out.

Oh - if you use Slide Film dont forget that it doesnt handle contrast all that well. For instance if you have dark foliage in the foreground and a white snow covered mountain in the background the limited latitude of slide film might not be able to record all the information. You can use a graduated neutral density filter in some situations to bring the high values down a little.

Hope that makes sense

I like to go Trekking but am yet to come up with an ideal way of

carrying my all my clothes and camera equipment.

Im currently using a Lowe Pro Orion AW which is a large beltpack

which can be used with a small backpack. It will carry a F100 with

24-120 attached, 70-200 F2.8, Speedlight, and some accessories. It's

good for the gear but the small backback isnt big enough to carry

the sort of clothing you need to go trekking somewhere like the

himalayas.

If I take a full size rucksack then there's no where really to carry

the camera bag. Does anyone make a decebt backpack style camera bag

with a compartment big enough to carry a change of clothes and some

all weather clothing. Any ideas ??

I have a lot of negs to scan for a wedding with my LS4000. I have

read articles which say that using Digital ICE to remove dust and

scratches causes a lot of sharpness.

I have tried turning it off but no matter how much I blow dust of

the negs there still seems to be a lot of white blotches which take

time to get out.

ICE seems to do a fair job of getting them out and saves a lot of

time. Will it mean that my images wont be as sharp ?

Is there anyway to get the Nikon LS4000 to batch scan a strip of

negatives using the automatic feeder.

It would be great to feed in a strip of say six negs - come back and

they were all saved on your hard drive ready for editing.

It seems that once the thumbnails are generated you have to click on

each image to scan them. Is there a faster way??? I have several

hundred images to scan...

I have a Nikon Coolscan LS4000.

When it comes to scanning Black and White Film - TriX for example.

Is is better to scan the negs as a colour file and convert them in

photoshop - or should I just scan them as a greyscale.

The ICE dust and scratches filter doesnt work on B & W film.

Thanks to those who have responded.

Just wondering - Both the SB24 and 45CL support 'balanced fill flash' although many say that it can be unreliable in certain situations and recommend using TTL and compensating -1 to 2 stops. Any thoughts on this ?

Is the Sto-fen Omini bounce the opaque box that slides over the top of the flash unit and is used at 45 degrees?

Im wondering if anyone could suggest a good flash combination that

might be suitable for weddings.

I am running two F100s - One attached to a Metz CL45 with TTL Cord.

The second is attached to an SB24 which I run off camera on a hama

bracket (Quite Flimzy and annoying)

Can anyone recomend softbox / bounce products that might work with

this combo. Im mainly looking for soft / diffused fill flash.

Hopefully something not too cumbersome.

As both flashes have sensors - must I still compensate down by a

stop of so to make the light softer or will the diffuser soften the

light sufficiently.

Cheers

JS

Australia