jasonsmith

I know this is an old thread. I just came accross it. I have a similar situation in that I inherited a bunch of old negatives in 620 and other sizes from my parents. I have a 35mm film scanner which obviously won’t work form these. I have a copy stand and light box. I was wondering if you could detail your setup for digitising negs with a DSLR

<p>I took my Nikon D700 on my family vacation this week and took around 463 Images which were stored on a Sandisk Extreme 8GB CF card. I came home today and uploaded the card to Lightroom using a Lexar CF reader.<br>

I received an error message indicating that some of the images could not be read. I can see now that there are about 100 images which I can see on my camera preview LCD which were not uploaded. I have had this issue intermittently with the D700 using various CF Cards and have had Nikon Australia look at the Camera in an attempt to diagnose the fault. They were unable to find any problem with the camera and I quarantined that particular CF Card. When this has occured in the past I have been able to retrieve the images with the Sandisk File Recovery Utility. I ran it tonight over the card tonight and it stopped at the point where the missing images begin.<br>

When I put the card back into the camera I can still see all of the images. There are some great shots of my children which I would dearly love to recover. Can anyone suggest what else I may be able to do or know of other software which might assist. I have tried copying the images to my HDD but I get a similar error.</p>

<p>Jen - thanks. I went with the book. I might get a month of Kelby training and run through some of Davids stuff there. Hopefully that wont spoil the book for me. I have got a few weddings this month so could use the inspiration while I wait. </p>

 

<p>Thanks. I was actually looking at Kelby Training last light as an alternative to buying the DVD set. <br>

The good thing about the Kelby Training videos is that they are shot on location and cover common issues such as shooting in bright sunlight. Am I right in thinking the Digital Wakeup Call DVDs are all recorded on Davids Tour and would be inside footage at the convention centre. <br>

The only issue with Kelby Training is that it seems to stop periodically to buffer which can be distracting. </p>

<p>I have read some great reviews on David Zisers book Capturing the Light and will definitely buy it. He has a few packages on his website that also include a 3 DVD Set Digital Wakeup Call so I am wondering whether to buy the DVD set also. I imagine there may be some overlap in information between the two. For those that have seen both, would I be doubling up or are they both worth getting. </p>

<p>I have a D700 and D300. The D700 really shines in low light and certainly worth it when shooting in dim churches, reception halls etc. <br>

I really only use the D300 outside nowadays. The D700 allows me to shoot at 1600 ISO without a second thought and sometimes up to 3200. <br>

Coming from a film background I am happy to migrate back to full frame. </p>

<p>Wow - just came across this - the oldest post I have seen on photo.net. <br>

Desmond - you were way ahead of your time. I presume as you were shooting film back in 97 and didn't have the luxury of checking your viewfinder. </p>

<p>+1 for the original image. I like the tone and crop of the original. The neutralised version looks a little sickly IMO and the vertical crops makes a good image that tells a story into something quite average. <br />Well done.</p>

<p>It may cost you a little in postage but Seldex ( www.seldex.com.au ) have some nice cases and lots of other great stuff.</p>

<p>Just to finish the story. I ended up ordering a Nec 2690wuxi2. It's a fair investment but I am one of those people that hates buying something and then wished they had purchased the better model down the track. Hopefully I will pull in a few extra jobs over the coming months to offset the difference. <br>

I didnt take any offfence. I enjoy a bit of spirited discussion. </p>

<p>It seems that some of these issues are fixed with the WUXi2 version which doesnt seem to be available down here. </p>

<p>Patrick <br>

I have used Adobe RGB since I first used Photoshop 5 in the late 90s. I shoot RAW, never JPEG and always work on my images in 16 Bit mode so I get the concept of working with the most information possible. I was pretty sold on this monitor but read a few negative reviews over the past few nights with people having difficulty with oversaturated colors, difficulties in calibrating etc. <br>

It's not strictly a $ problem. I can (just) afford the 2690 at a stretch. As I build my business I always buy the best equipment I can afford. In asking questions I just want to satisfy myself that when I do make a significant investment (for me) that I will be happy with the purchase. I have looked at alternatives such as the Dell monitors however it seems with those brands you may get a good one, or you may get a bad one.</p>

<p>Reading other forums there seems to be some division over whether the Wide Gamut of the NEC 2690 <br>

is good for photo editing. Some argue that the extra 'headroom' is a benefit when editing in Photoshop or LR <br>

as you can see the colors correctly. Others think that if you are generally outputting to a lab that uses sRGB <br>

then there is no point editing in wide gamut mode. There are also issues with Web content etc being over saturated<br>

on the 2690 although I think the latest version of the monitor has a button which can revert the monitor into sRGB mode. I am wondering whether the 2490 although smaller might be a better choice. These are expensive monitors and I really just want something that I can get accurate colour from when editing my work. </p>

<p>I came accross a review for the LG Flatron 2600 HP which indicated that it has an identical panel as the NEC 2690. <br>

" According to LG, the company’s own S-IPS-Panel is identical to the panel used in the NEC LCD2690WUXi. Currently, it represents practically the only alternative to S-PVA panel LCDs such as the Eizo SX2761."<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.prad.de/en/monitore/reviews.html" target="_blank">www.prad.de/en/monitore/reviews.html<img src="http://whirlpool.net.au/im/extlink.gif" border="0" alt="" vspace="2" width="6" height="6" align="top" /></a><br>

At less than half the price of the NEC I am interested in seeing if this monitor would be a viable option. Up to now I was using a Viewsonic CRT which of course died a few months outside of the warranty period. The NEC gets great reviews but is a lot more expensive. <br>

My main use is portait / wedding photography so I need something that gives accurate colour. <br>

The thing I havent quite got my head around with the NEC and this may also apply to the LG is how the wide Gamut of monitor would affect my workflow. I have seen some threads where people are indicating that they chose he 2490 over the 2690 for this reason.<br>

I have a limited understanding of colour profiles. I generally shoot and work on my images in Adobe RGB.<br>

When it comes time to print I generally Export the images as JPGs from lightroom and convert to sRGB in the process. </p>

 

<p>I have two EN-EL3e batteries and am unsure which one is the older of the two. Are there any real Nikon Geeks out there who can tell by the serial number which one was produced first. <br>

5Z01A<br>

5919A<br>

I purchased the batteries between 2005 and 2006. <br>

Since then I am in the habit of labelling my batteries with the purchase date. </p>

<p>Jen <br>

I have owned the Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8 for about a year now and used it with the D300. Its a fantastic lens and is sharp at F 2.8 which was what appealed to me. It is very solid and robust which I like although it does make the lens quite heavy. <br>

I cant attest to the Tamron or Tokina equivelant or this lens. I have purchased other Tamron and Sigma lenses in the past and IMO the quality isnt there. I would only buy Nikon F 2.8 or better lenses. </p>

 

Marc

Dont tell me you have switched from Nikon to Canon and back to Nikon again? I was actually thinking recently of selling

up my gear and going Canon....always a step behind :)

 

I force myself to shoot on Manual most of the time. My last couple of weddings have been held indoors with similiar

conditions - glass windows in full sun behind couple, dark room looking the other way which proved very challenging. All

in all I missed the occasional shot due having to change exposure. It was enough to make me think I should try one of

the automated modes. The danger with Aperture Priority for me is that I will go over the max sync speed if I am not

careful resulting in blown shots. I have never really tried "P" mode but will do some testing with it.

I am travelling to China next week on business and will be spending a couple of nights in Guangzhao. I am wondering whether anyone

can offer information on interesting locations for photography in and around the city. I always find the markets and the old town quarters

really interesting.

 

I know Guangzhao is known for its shopping. Would it be a good place to pick up Camera gear at a good price.

My wife and I are heading up to the NSW Snowy Mountains in a couple of weeks and staying at Lake Crackenback.

 

I love the countryside up there and am keen to get out and take some nice landscapes.

 

I will be doing some of the common walks including the Summit and Main Range walks from Charlottes Pass.

 

Would love to see some other peoples work who have been up in that region of NSW for inspiration. Here are some shots from the last

time I was there. http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=594189

 

If anyone can help put with locations of old farmhouses, huts or other subjects of interest that would be much appreciated. Am also going

to try my hand at HDR whilst I am up there.

I have the flowposing and ground posing DVDs. There is definatly something to be said for having a flowing set of poses you can use to get the boring stuff out of the way so you can shoot more PJ.

 

Having said that I find the way he directs his subjects very annoying and cheesy. ie "Just turn your head this way beautiful.." when talking to the bride. He seems to yank the subjects around like rag dolls during the sessions.

thanks guys. Ellis, how often should you take an exposure to record star trails.

I would then copy each image onto a layer and use maybe "lighten" blend mode. Is that right?

 

I might take one of old film bodies along for fun?

I am going away to our Snowy Mountains (more like hills compared to yours) and was looking to set my camera up on the balcony of a

night and do some star trail shots with my D300. Obviously this chews the juice fairly quickly so looked at the EH-5a external supply.

 

At $189 AUD is seems expensive for what must just be a DC Power supply. Is there any reason I couldnt just go down to my local

electronics store and pick up something that matches in terms of voltage and power output.

George, I have a GF Lightsphere and out of all my flash diffusers it's the one I use least.

 

The main reason is that its quite bulky and it causes the head of my SB800 to drop down.

On top of that it doesnt provide any significant improvement over the Stofen Omni bounce

which is much more compact.

 

It comes down to this. You will achieve far greater results and consistancy if you learn how

to bounce your flash or get it off camera. There is no diffuser that will give you consistant

results.

Can anyone recommend a good DVD on designing Albums. I have seen Jeff Hawkins

DVD on Photovision which I am thinking of getting. Wondering if there is

anything else out there.

I would also be interested in hearing about these. I have seen some articles where using a few readily available props (ie table, a few candles) he creates extroadinary images.