david_karp

I just checked the Calumet site and the link to the pdf file is up and working. Probably one of the others contacted Calumet and notified them. Just FYI.

Carlos,

 

I have the prior version (Fujinon W 125mm f/5.6). I have been very happy with it. It is one of my favorite lenses. If I am not mistaken, the new CM-W version has a larger image circle. I have not used it, but Kerry Thalmann has positive comments about this lens, except for its 67mm filter size: http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/wide.htm.

Another good source with a simple, effective film speed and normal development test is Carson Graves' "Zone System for 35mm Photographers" which is equally applicable to medium and large format photographers. An excellent book.

I assume you are talking black and white printing. You might try minus development (shorter time than normal) since the range of values is greater than the film's ability to handle at your normal development time.

 

Another alternative, perhaps more realistic since you have limited time to experiment, is to use a two bath developer. This should compensate for the hot specular hightlights because the developer will exhaust in the areas with these highlights before it will exhaust in the shadows and midtones. I have used Acufine's Diafine two bath developer with success (I have not seen the dramatic film speed increase claimed for this developer, but others have). Another commercially available two bath is Photographer's Formulary Divided D-76. There are also many formulas for divided developers available out there, such as Divided D-23, a variety of versions of Divided D-76, and one by Barry Thornton, which I like very much (try this website if you are interested in mixing your own - http://www.barry-thornton.co.uk/2bath.htm). Another good site with many formulas, plus a discussion of Divided D-23 is http://unblinkingeye.com.

 

All of these divided developers work similarly. The developing agent is in the A bath. The accelerator is in the B bath. You soak the film in the A bath for 3-5 minutes (depending on the developer) and the B bath for 3-5 minutes (again, depends on the developer). Don't rinse or use a stop bath between baths. The developer soaks into the film in the A bath, and little or no development takes place. The accelarator in the B bath causes development. Since there is no source for additional developer, the developer exhausts itself in the areas where the most silver is reduced - the highlights. After this occurs, the midtones and finally, the shadows continue to develop.

 

These divided developers are so simple and easy to use, you can even develop two or more different kinds of film together (Tri-X and T-Max100 or HP5+ and APX 100). You might even try different films when you are out there and develop them together in Diafine. Different films will handle the scene differently, even when developed in the same soup. Barry Thornton has a good discussion of divided developers at the website I gave you above.

 

Finally, another alternative might be to use PMK, a Pyro developer that might work to help you with those specular highlights. It is also available in a kit from Photographer's Formulary. I have used it some, but there are many others on this forum that use it regularly and could speak to its application here much better than I can.

 

Hope this helps.

If you call Calumet in Chicago and ask for Jose in the service department, he should be able to help you.

I don't know enough about printing to help, but I can recommend John Sexton's Places of Power if you want to see super high quality reproductions of architectural subjects. The last page says that the printer used the Laser Fultone process, whatever that is.

Another positive response. I have one and like it. Just to give you some choice, you might want to also check out the Fujinon C 300mm f/8.5. This lens has also received many favorable reviews. I was searching for a good price on a used version either one of these lenses. The Nikkor M 300mm came up first and I grabbed it.

Darrell,

 

Keep checking Midwest Photo Exchange (www.mpex.com), or better yet, call there and ask for Jim. He will give you good advice. They have some 135mm and 150mm lenses in your price range from Rodenstock, Nikon and Schneider. They don't show any on the web, but they often have used Fujinon's in these focal lengths. Jim is a straight shooter and will describe his lenses to you in perfect detail. Very accurate, perhaps even conservative grading of used lenses. Highly recommended.

 

Another good source is Photomark in Arizona (www.photomark.com). Ask for Rod. He is also a straight shooter, although I have not yet had the opportunity to buy from him.

 

A few other good sources. Quality Camera in Atlanta, The F-Stops here in the Chicago area, and Lens and Repro in NY. If he has lenses in stock, Chuck Farmer (www.charlespfarmerphotography.com) is also a straightforward guy.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Best of luck with the 45NX.