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eajames

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Posts posted by eajames

  1. <p>Cool - glad to hear it.</p>

    <p>Dave Wilson's reading suggestion is a great one - on page 103 of my copy the author provides the formula for "combined focal length" when using diopters:</p>

    <p>Combined Focal Length = 1000 / [(1000/focal length of lens) + diopter power]</p>

  2. <p>Nikon no longer makes compound close-up lenses but their quality is every bit as good as the Canon diopters available today. This is demonstrated by there current market prices. Nikon made two 62mm compound diopters - the 5T (1.5X) and the 6T (3X). Your 200mm Micro becomes a 125mm lens with the 6T. In terms of quality, the compound diopters are much much better than the simple close-up lenses, and I would imagine that your loss in image quality would be no greater than that experienced by reversing or stacking lenses.</p>

    <p>I'm wondering if the TC 2.0 III would be compatible with your 200mm Micro if you sandwiched one of the Kenko tubes between them.</p>

  3. <p>I don't have an answer other than to suggest that high magnification and great working distance are opposing demands that will result in a very unwieldy set-up if diopters aren't being considered. (Canon's compound close-up lenses are quite good but I understand you don't want to use close-up lenses.) I suspect that you'll need to begin with a dedicated macro such as the Sigma 150 or Nikon's 200, and then add as much extension as your tripod and (homemade) bracket will allow.</p>
  4. <p>I tried to get a handle on the out-of-focus character today by focusing closely at 200mm f4. I didn't notice anything disturbing, except for a possible tendency to swirl, a bit like the VRI. The attached shot is handheld with VR on, near minimal focus distance at 200mm f4.</p>

    <div>00bCGC-511839584.thumb.jpg.d95572025db4cfdc9356e9718d69f275.jpg</div>

  5. <p>I spoke with a Really Right Stuff representative earlier today (before I saw today's posts) and learned that the collar will utilize the existing LCF-10 foot used on the 70-200 VRI and VRII lenses, and the 300 f4 AFS collar.</p>

    <p>http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=LCF-10&type=0</p>

    <p>That's good news for the folks who already own one of these as it will provide roughly a $100 savings. I was also told that the collar will be sold separately, and as a kit with the LCF-10. That said, I'm going to get a second foot because I invariably find that my foot is on the 70-200 when I've brought the 300 f4, and on the 300 f4 when the 70-200 is needed. Murphy.<br /> <br /> It's not yet available for pre-order because they haven't settled on a price, so I'll be checking the link Dan provided ten to twenty times a day to beat all of you to the punch.</p>

    <p>Thanks for the feedback John.</p>

  6. <p>I put my VRII up for sale when reviews of the f4 started coming out. At landscape apertures the f4 appears to hold its own; the weigh savings will likely make the difference between getting a remote shot, and wondering why I left the VRII in the truck; but the absence of a tripod collar is a point I'll have to sort out. I shot the 180 AIS on a tripod for years and I frequently wished for better balance. Almost certainly Really Right Stuff will pony up and we'll have a better, albeit similarly expensive option.<br>

    .<br>

    Primarily I look to this lens for portability in the pack, but when my copy arrives I'll be most anxious to evaluate the OOF rendition at f4 (and 5.6 and 8 when foreground and out-of-focus areas and distant from one another). Selling the VRII concerns me some but I have other portrait tools in the focal range, and I can't justify keeping both.<br>

    .<br>

    Oh - and three cheers for the VRIII reports, and the relative absence of focus breathing. I'm just wondering if it has an Achilles heal.</p>

  7. <p>The thought of switching to Canon did cross my mind, but it's not a sensible option for me. I found a thread on dpreview where a gentlemen mentioned it took Nikon USA over a month to get his lens converted, presumedly because they had to order the longer ribbon. This is what I was trying to avoid - a long, drawn out Nikon USA cluster. The suggestions to do the work myself are appreciated, but I'm the sort who gets nervous when the rear cap is off a lens - torquing out those four screws on a new $2K lens would be unsettling.</p>

    <p>The window of opportunity for me has essentially closed when I read of the potential turn-around time with Nikon USA. I'm going on an extended trip at the end of the month and I've decided to make due with the default orientation for the summer. Perhaps this is the most sensible approach - to spend a few months with the default orientation and see if I can use it to my advantage for stitching. I can see myself cursing in the field now.</p>

    <p>Thank you all.</p>

  8. <p>Usually swing is not my thing, but I appreciate your comments. Of course there are landscape situations where I would use the stock configuration, but for the most part I use a bit of tilt with rise or fall. It's a shame that Nikon puts us in this position.</p>
  9. <p>I've purchased a new 45mm PC-E and would like to have the shift axis aligned with the tilt axis for landscape work. Would those of you who have had this done by Nikon USA tell me about your experience. I'm particularly interested in:<br>

    1) The cost of converting a new lens. (Nikon USA couldn't provide a cost over the phone - strange.)<br>

    2) The approximate turn-around time.<br>

    3) The quality of the work performed.<br>

    Thank you.</p>

  10. <p>In my opinion this is the best wEdNesDay ever - congratulations to all (Great orb Jeff! Stunning image Shun!) There is reason to celebrate in Western Alaska this week - the Kuskokwim River broke and river travel is in full swing. My image is a Waterworld shot conjured from reflected and refracted light in a glass half filled with water. It's not great but it's strikingly similar to my neighborhood view of the Kuskokwim River.</p><div>00WV2H-245499584.jpg.8cea6a9145d79a312422e337ad892c3d.jpg</div>
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