gui_maranhao

You can make a

fairly good lith developer with 1/2 tbs sodium ascorbate, 1 tsp

potassium bromide and 10 grams of lye in 500 ml of water.

I did try this today, worked very well indeed.

I found this digital back here in Brazil.

Downloaded software from Megavision and it gets recognized.

I need some sort of parameter files for the software to allow capture.

Do you still have your parameter files? Or maybe they were inside that B&W G3 that crashed...

I'm hoping for a tiny miracle here.

Cheers!

<p>The door latch on my Elan 7n recently had the same problem. I already ordered the part, it should be on its way to Brazil.<br>

But I have been looking closely at the camera, specifically at the light trap around the film door. There is a plastic light trap that goes around all the film door, but at the edge of the door that sits on top of the film cartridge there is also a piece of black foam, inside of the trap. I could be wrong, but it seems to me, that when I close the film door, that piece of foam gives extra pressure and turns/flexes the film door a bit, making it stay a bit open at the top and not the bottom.<br>

I was thinking of trimming that piece of foam a little bit, maybe hoping this would make the next door latch last a little longer. Have any of you noticed this?</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Gui</p>

<p>I have had luck with a combination that's usually credited to Crawley around the web for old film that was exposed long ago.<br>

DK-50 diluted 1:1 for 12minutes @ 20C (1min agitation, then 5s every minute, assuming 35mm in a SS tank)</p>

<p>I was able to get very good results using a 5D MKII, macro lens and a LPL enlarger set at 105 CYAN (for an old Superia 400 negative).<br>

Processed in LR2 to get a TIFF with sharpening and WB.<br>

Inverted in Photoshop, Autocontrast, converted to 8bit, saved Jpeg.</p>

<p>Mark,<br>

Can I ask for some pics of the 5x7 back?<br>

I got one camera like that recently and you like to build a 5x7 back for it.<br>

Mine came with the Mamiya conversion board (to attach the 6x7 film holder of a Mamiya Press camera, with sliding ground glass and 2 holders) and with the 4x5" revolving back, but no 5x7 back.<br>

I'll have to build a new bellows for it too, but that is another story.</p>

<p>Regards from Brazil,<br>

Guilherme</p>

<p>Hello from Brazil to all!</p>

<p>I've been researching the web and the real world lately before I start doing Wet Mount scanning of negatives on a flatbed scanner I own (a PFU 2400, also known as the Quato Lynx, or even the Qubyx Lynx, a A3 format scanner).<br>

I read all about Kami fluid, a few tutorials online, what a lot of people said about avoiding water at all (emulsion swelling, sticking, etc).<br>

Then yesterday I sat down with a friend, who owns a Nikon 9000 scanner and uses the glass carrier with pure Isopropilic Alcohol with sucess. He told me this is what our local Cinemateque uses to capture old movies, in a technique called Janela Molhada (wet window), I believe the principle is the same with wet mounting, only faster, there is a spray of alcohol on the film as it enters the projector/scanner.</p>

<p>Has anyone here had this experience using this fluid?</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Guilherme Maranhão</p>

Geoff, I apologize, maybe I should have written quimiogram instead, or even chemiogram (painting with developer over a completely exposed piece of photosensitive material), in fact, none of these have a definition through google.

Ted, i don't think two dimensions are a good way to go, surface would be ok, there is always texture (like in a rough inkjet paper) or angles like the surface of a building that gets an image projected onto it.

I'd agree with Glenn, intent is a complicated word bringing in a large generalization. A photo booth may have much more compositional intent brought to its pictures, while some people decide to leave this to chance, luck or lack or it.

People call it a technique, an art, a form of communication, but those are all applications for it.

Have you ever thought of what it is?

Its ontology?

Has anyone read Towards a Philosophy of Photography by Vilem Flusser? According to him, in brief, photography is

one kind of technical image, an image generated by an apparatus. I find it interesting because he managed to

create a definition wide enough to accept pinholes, photograms and quimeograms as well. Would be interested in

listening your opinion on it.

Gui

1 - most times, the process of posting a question itself reveals an answer.

2 - and yet the first answer to your post usually reveals the unclear thinking behind it even more

3 - if it is hard to express yourself in English avoid jokes

4 - a tool is just a tool

5 - I guess W. H. Auden wrote "If equal affection cannot be, Let the more loving one be me." In photo.net affection got replaced with generosity, and I learned that photographers from the entire world come here to enjoy photography, no matter if he/she asks or answers.

Appreciate the time you took to answer this.

As a matter of fact the two events happened in the last 15 days or so.

This is why I was concerned, sorry I forgot to mention it before.

I'll clean all contacts again anyway.

I'll see what happens and report back here.

Hello everybody,

I have had this problem occur for the second time now, the camera (with no

particular lens attached, no particular card in it, no external flash on camera

or PC adapter) simply stops responding to any input. After removing and

reinstalling batteries it comes back to life.

I googled the thing, there was one hit here in photo.net, and another similar

one at another forum. Both cases ended up with camera sent back to Canon because

it was still in warranty, but no one found a root cause. Mine is not under warranty.

Some peole report things similar with the 20D.

One post referred to the flexing of the plastic body as the possible cause, the

person reported he would push the body with his finger, above the control wheel

on the back making the problem appear. I tried all sorts of things like that, no

show.

I checked my firmware, I have 1.0.3 (latest) pre-installed, so there's no

firmware to go to.

The grip was attached to the camera both times it happened. No one metioned the

grip in other posts. The first it happened, I removed both the batteries and the

grip, just to make sure because it showed an empty battery signal on the LCD (I

cleaned the contacts between grip and battery and between grip and camera). The

second time, simply removing the batteries did it, the camera didn't show

anything different, simply froze at the metering stage.

I'm not an eletronics expert, but could the grip and its circuitry to switch

power from each battery be the cause?

Since 2005, has anyone else had this problem? How did you fix it?

Regards,

Guilherme

They will only sell 6.5 at Lasersoft.

And that only works with Panther and Tiger, no good for me.

Thanks anyway.

Anyone has experience with this scanner?

Searching the web, seems Silverfast is the only available driver for this scanner.

Where can I get a 6.0 copy?

Regards,

Guilherme

Brazil

Update:

At Polaroid's japanese website I was able to download the film tables. At least it appears so.

Regards,

Guilherme Maranhão

Does anyone know where to find or have the film tables for the Polaroid Digital

Palette printer CI 5000s?

Polaroid's website features film tables for the 7000, 8000 and 6000 printers,

but not this one.

Any clues? Has anyone here being using one?

Regards,

Guilherme Maranhão

Brazil

coisasdavida@yahoo.com

http://guilhermemaranhao.awardspace.com/

Yeah! It works at 1/30. I have a IIIa by the way.

Thank you so much to all of you!

Hello there!

I found this accessory inside a letter case in which came a 50mm 1.4 Nikkor

screw mount. I searched the web, found a few pictures of it so I know for sure

that's what I have. I even know I have the model for a 3a. But, apart from

hooking the thing to the speed dial, and mounting the other thing on the camera,

what speed should read in which hole on speed dial thing so it works? Anyone?

Thanks a lot.

Gui

Yes, I had the same problem. Would appreciate if you could try again, or maybe e-mail me the jpgs: coisasdavida at yahoo dot com

Thank you indeed!

Gui

Yesterday I bought a GA645. I didn�t notice this at the store, but anyway, got home did a test roll and still then took me while to figure out what was happening.

The test roll was excellent, but the problem started to anoy me. I did a search and found this post. A few other pages, but no help at all to fix the thing.

I decided it should be very simple, since I�m such a crazy person to risk something I bought just yesterday, and this morning I managed to fix the problem. Here is how:

First it took me a while to discover how to crack open the Fuji GA645, but here it is: removed two screws from right side (looking at the camera as a photographer would, from behind), just by the door latch. Opened door, loosened four black screws holding front cover. Poped-up flash and removed a black screw under it, loosened plastic piece and removed it, that gave access to flash wiring, lifted wiring making it loose, but no need to unsolder or cut wiring at all, wiring remained intact, but not tucked in. Removed 4 screws holding top cover in place. Lifted black clip with X written on it from flash hot shoe, and slid it back and out. Removed only 2 screws closer to back of camera. Minding the slack on flash wiring, lifted top cover slowly, clearing locks at front of camera very carefully, no need to remove top completely, just enough to see the transparent wheel underneath up/down dial.

After all this, all I did was slide a dentist tool (flat long edge) under the wheel, turn the wheel a bit every time, until a nice piece of beach sand came out.

Was careful not to pinch any wires on the way back. Good luck if you decide to try it yourself!

Yesterday I bought a GA645. I didn�t notice this at the store, but anyway, got home did a test roll and still then took me while to figure out what was happening.

The test roll was excellent, but the problem started to anoy me. I did a search and found this post. A few other pages, but no help at all to fix the thing.

I decided it should be very simple, since I�m such a crazy person to risk something I bought just yesterday, and this morning I managed to fix the problem. Here is how:

First it took me a while to discover how to crack open the Fuji GA645, but here it is: removed two screws from right side (looking at the camera as a photographer would, from behind), just by the door latch. Opened door, loosened four black screws holding front cover. Poped-up flash and removed a black screw under it, loosened plastic piece and removed it, that gave access to flash wiring, lifted wiring making it loose, but no need to unsolder or cut wiring at all, wiring remained intact, but not tucked in. Removed 4 screws holding top cover in place. Lifted black clip with X written on it from flash hot shoe, and slid it back and out. Removed only 2 screws closer to back of camera. Minding the slack on flash wiring, lifted top cover slowly, clearing locks at front of camera very carefully, no need to remove top completely, just enough to see the transparent wheel underneath up/down dial.

After all this, all I did was slide a dentist tool (flat long edge) under the wheel, turn the wheel a bit every time, until a nice piece of beach sand came out.

Was careful not to pinch any wires on the way back. Good luck if you decide to try it yourself!

Hello, greetings from Brazil!

Would anyone have a electronic file that could help me with the

calibration of the rangefinder on a Fujica G690. It can be either a

repair manual ou a web page with instructions, as long as I can get

it done.

Any help appreciated!

Take care,

Guilherme

Yesterday I was trying to print with my elwood. I had installed a

large bulb, some 200W thing.

It was hot spotting too much. If I removed the lens board and

looked up, I could see the lamp through the elwood frosted

glass.

After much trying, I finally decided to see if the dome was clean

inside, it had a bit of dust and I reached in to clean, my surprise

was to see my whole hand reflected inside the dome and not the

enlarging lamp.

I figured the lamp had to be lower inside the dome to be

reflected, this 312 bulb must have been pretty long bulb then.

I attached a extension to the socket, that one you find in the

hardware store, with two eletric outlets and a second socket,

which gave me another 2 inches os "bulb length".

That was it, finally the dome was doing his part, I could see the

lamp through the ground glass, and I got an extra couple stops

of light on my baseboard.

It doesn't hot spot at all!

Amazing how the solution was simple.

Regards,

Gui

São Paulo, Brasil.

www.coisasdavida.com