mich8261

<p>what about Kodachrome? You only have a few months left to use it.</p>

<p>wow. No wonder people refer to this site as p.nut. One person makes a mild statement about <em>some</em> individuals not being "au fait" with computers and people get offended and threaten coarse language.<br>

But back to the OP, film will be around for a long time, but as Bob Atkins said, the problem will be fixing the electronics in the last generation film cameras. Leicas, Nikorrmats and other mostly mechanical cameras might gain in value though.</p>

<p>I think the only way a RAW file will get you a 9-stop range is if you blend two versions of the same image (creating an HDR image). Take the RAW file above and process it to benefit the shadow detail and then take the same RAW file and process it for the highlights. When you blend both images you will arrive close to that 9-stop range. There are all kinds of tool to automate this process or you can do it in PS manually (the blending part).</p>

<p>Ian, thanks for the thorough explanation. Contrary to what I had stated before, I can now confirm that I have a F2A with the DP-11 Photomic frankenmeter. Right below the "A" there is a metal tab with a red dot which can be pushed up under the "A" and then revealed again by sliding the ridged button above the "A". So if I understand your comment above, I would push in this metal tab when using non AI lenses for stop down metering, right?<br>

Now to determine if my lenses are AI or not. Looking at this website - http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html, it seems that the only AI lens I have is the 55mm Micro (it does have the added tab protruding below the aperture ring which hooks on to the metal tab on the F2A and lets the camera meter properly.)<br>

So based on what I learned, the Nikkormat is the better body to use since it will meter without having to stop down (the Micro 55 is the only lens that would meter "normally" on the F2A). Does that sound right?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Bob, the 35 was actually a find :-))) it does have the yellow cast because of the aged thorium element, but that just makes it a great B&W lens. I new instantly when I saw the 55mm/f1.2 that I had come across a nice "little" lens. A visit to KEH.com confirmed what the seller had said (although he was exaggerating). I think the 35/55 makes a great combo.</p>

<p>thanks to all for the info. I am starting to get a better understanding of the whole thing. I will have a close look at the camera and lenses when i get home tonight.</p>

<p>just to clarify when you say <em>"There are two different meter heads for the F2, one is AI(no coupling pin), the other is with the coupling pin only" </em> do you mean there are two models of the F2 or the F2 can accommodate both types of lenses? My F2 does not have a pin like the Nikkormat does.</p>

<p>Cheers.</p>

<p>I seem to be accumulating some nice Nikon gear almost without trying. First came a F2 Photomic with the radioactive Nikkor 35mm/f1.4 (with rabbit ears) found at my mother-in-law's house. A few weeks ago I found a Nikon FG with Nikon 50mm/f1.8 for $25 at a yard sale - although it's not functioning right now, the film counter is not resetting so the meter does not engage. And the grand prize came this weekend when I stumbled upon another yard sale and found a Nikkormat FTn, Nikkor 55mm/f1.2, Nikkor Micro 55mm/f3.5, Nikkor 28mm/f3.5 and Vivitar 85-205mm/f3.8 all with rabbit ears - all for the low low price of $75 (the seller even commented that I was getting a couple of thousand dollars worth of lenses for $75). I have tried reading all I can about the bodies at the MIR website and others, but I have to say I am thoroughly confused by indexing, AI, AIS and non AI nomenclature. So my questions are:</p>

<ul>

<li>The F2 Photomic does not have the pin that fits between the rabbit ears, will it meter accurately? Do I have to use stop down metering?</li>

<li>The Nikkormat focus screen does not have the split circle in the center making precise focus difficult and with f1.4 and f1.2 lenses it's pretty important. Can the focus screen be replaced?</li>

<li>I believe that to use these lenses on the FG (if I get it fixed) they would have to be modified, does that make them unusable on the F2 and Nikkormat?</li>

</ul>

<p>Thanks for taking the time to read my post.</p>

<p>another non-wedding photog suggestion. Make sure the contract states that although you will try to capture every significant participant on picture, you cannot be held responsible if you do not, i.e. they will have no claim against you if you miss Nana.</p>

thank you all for your replies. The camera will be off to Garry soon. Now any recommendations for repairing a Tamron adaptall manual focus lens? It is not glass related.

 

Thanks.

my fiancée has a broken Minolta x700 (film won't advance anymore).

Can someone recommend a reputable repair shop in New York City? Or

should she just send it to Minolta?

 

Thanks

in the mean while I also found www.ezprints.com. They offer a great assortment of sizes and finishes. Does anyone know what lustre finish is? Any feedback on Ezprints?

I am looking for an online photo service that offers 8X12 prints. I

have looked at Ofoto, Shutterfly, ImageStation and Snapfish.

 

Thanks.