sid_chatterjee
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Posts posted by sid_chatterjee
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<p>Zone focus only. No liveview or focus peaking with M8. </p>
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<p>I've have not had an issue going from my M3 to M7 0.85 with both eyes open. What I find distracting are those extra frame lines. For fixed 50mm lens I love the M3 and that's how I keep by DR Summi.</p>
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<p>Sorry Paul, my M3's are 1,095,nnn and 1,066,nnn. I still have my 1967 M2 purchased new from Stone Camera on Bromfield St. in Boston. Late Captain Al's old stomping grounds.</p>
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<p>Jon - Get a good clean 90mm F4 Elmar-C that was made for the CL. Because of the very short base of the rangefinder on the CL, sharp focus as F2.8 is a hit or miss. With F4, the depth of focus compensates for the short rangefinder base. If your CL ever needs service, there's no one better than Sherry Krauter, Golden Touch. Have fun with that great little camera.</p>
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<p>Try both of these outstanding Leica repair shops.<br>
<a href="mailto:krauter@warwick.net">krauter@warwick.net</a>, Sherry Krauter, Golden Touch<br>
and <a href="mailto:dagcam@chorus.net"></a><br>
<a href="mailto:dagcam@chorus.net">dagcam@chorus.net</a>, Don Goldberg, DAG Camera<br>
</p>
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<p>Michael -- Welcome to this Forum. I don't own any of the ZM lenses but found your article very interesting. Well worth the read. Please keep contributing. -- Sid</p>
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<p>Ray - Years ago I got the 0.58 with the Tri-Elmar as my traveling combo. Being an eyeglass wearer who loves 35 lens, this is a perfect match.</p>
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<p>Jim - Don't forget to include instuction manual. Highlight the sections on how to load film, turn on camera and unload film. Others on the trip may not remember how to use an analog camera :)</p>
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<p>It won't hurt to check with these two:<br>
http://www.dagcamera.com/ -- Don Goldberg<br>
http://www.sherrykrauter.com/ -- Sherry Krauter</p>
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Paul Neuthaler -- Are you reading this? They are saying bad things about our beloved 21SA.
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Make sure it has had a recent, about last 5 years, CLA from a Leica trained technician.
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Geoff --
I would forget about the ROM lens. 90mm Summi 3 cam with 55mm filter can be had for about $500. I love that lens. --
Sid
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Ronald -- I advise not buying any quality camera from camera show/fair. I've been going to these shows for over 20 years. During the last 5 years or so there's been a clear shift in the quality of people/dealers who sell items at these shows. Vast majority of these sellers offer items with questionable quality and no real warranty. My advice is to buy from this and other user's forums, be very cautious with on-line auction or pay the extra price and buy from one of the quality Leica dealers who are talked about on the forums. Enjoy your RF.
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Well done. Especially like #12.
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Jeff,
I too wear eyeglasses and didn't have too much trouble framing with the 35mm Summicron. After I got the 35 Lux Asph the intrusion into the finder made framing more difficult. I have found the 0.58 much more to my liking with the Lux. I also use the 75 Lux; 35 and 75 is my favorite combo. With the 75, I use the 1.25 magnifier on the 0.58 body; it work well even when I shoot it wide open. My 0.02 ...
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Ken -- As Leica prices go the 135mm f/4 Tele-Elmar is a bargain. It's an outstanding lens and sells for around $300. The Hektor, named for Max Berek's dog, is a very good lens originally designed in 1933. It is surpassed by the 1960 Elmar and the 1965 Tele-Elmar. This helps explain the very low price for the Hektor.
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Ian, I'll add to the chorus telling you to get a M6 with 50 or 35 Summicron. I don't recommend Ebay to someone new to Leica. There's too much out there trying to fool you on the condition of the equipment. In the US, I suggest you buy from reliable dealers, KEH - Photovillage - Tamarkin, etc., or from photonet forum members. -- Sid
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Jeff - You have several choices depending mostly on your shooting style. I would try to satisfy the 75mm's need, first. I you like to use it wide open, f/2, then the highest viewfinder magnification will give you the best focus accuracy. If the 75mm lens will be used at the higher f-stop outside, the 0.58 VF may then serve you the best. With the 0.58 VF, you can add the 1.25 magnifier to help reduce focusing error. The Leica magnifier is somewhat fragile and is a hassle to take-on-off frequently. I've never used the 0.8 magnifier from Japan but that unit, if very shallow, on a 0.72 VF could be all you need for the 35mm.
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John -- I don't own the 90 A-A but have the pre-Asph version. I suggest that you try slide film, such as Astia, and re-evaluate the results. With negative films printed with the mini-lab style of machines, the output to paper can be (are) from scanned negatives. Machine software takes over the image corrections. With slides, you have better control of the variables. My two cents.
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Thank you Larry, Pico and James.
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Jeff -- Pico makes an excellent point about the M7 shutter speed lock-n-hold. With the M6TTL, I pan the exposure dot over to the highlight, set the exposure, recompose and shoot. With the M7, I had to take the soft release off because I found the exposure lock too tricky to use with it. M7 requires a subtle push-down touch to lock the exposure. Master that technique and I think you'll find it to be a great shooter.
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Don't know about the Digilux 2 but if it's 69mm then Heliopan makes a filter which fits. You will not find any better than the multi-coated Heliopan.
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There's a lot of good information on LTM bodies. Check out these two webpages. In David Young's page you can read the instruction manual for the IIIf. Links: http://www.ozdoba.net/leica/leica_schraub_home_e.html and http://www3.telus.net/~telyt/
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Eyes for a LTM?
Mirrorless camera for beginner
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
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