paul_bien

Marbles

Try a new battery. That's what mine needed after 3 years of no use.

I just got an Epson R220 to do black&white only with 3rd inksets party inksets. I'm burning

through the color set that camewith the printer on many of my digital shots and scans and

can tell you up front that if you don't need anything wider han 8.5 inches, this is a beautiful

printer. Try it with Epson Premium Luster paper and amd you will be pleasantly surprised.

The resolutionis great so any black text should come out just fine. Can't beat the price of

$99 bucks. With the prints I've made so far I could throw the printer away and still come out

hundreds of dollars ahead had I had these printed at a lab.

I've been using an HP 7960 to make some pretty nice B&W prints. Now there are new inks available

(VIVERA) whereas they are replacing the 57 Color cartridge with a 57+ Vivera cartridge and it says it's okay

with my 7960. Problem is I am low on the Photo Grey 59 cartidge, but now they have a 100 Photogray

Vivera but it does not list my 7960 printer. Anyone by chance ever tried to drop in an HP 100 Photo Grey

into the 59 Photo Grey slot?

Before I spend $34 I'd like to know if it even fits....

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Paul

Does anyone in the US still sell Acros 8X10? I am aware of Pearl in Japan, but anything in-country?

I believe you just give them a hard twist counter-clockwise holding one side in each hand. Then line them up again appropriately and twist clockwise to resize

The BTZS tubes should be giving continuous agitation and hence is still an open question. I've tried staining developers before with and without BTZS tubes with similar results. Would suggest you try any other non-staining developer (D76, HC110, etc,) and see how even you negs are. I bet they are perfect.

Amund

How do you develop your 8X10. I just got started in 8X10 and haven't shot any ACROS yet. ACROS in 120 is cheaper than any other 120 I buy from Big Yellow.

I am trying to standardize on a single film (Fuji ACROS) and am

interested in what people like about this film and their favorite

developers. Any opinions and or posts of pics is greatly

appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Paul

Lenswork

B&W

View Camera

Black and White Photography

Outdoor Photography

 

In that order..................

Do the whole process in the tube (Develop, Stop, Fix), then fill tube with water, grasp edges of film and curl ever so slightly tighter and film will pull strait out. You really do not even need the water. Then I lay in Pyrex glass dish, remove stop with orbit bath and wash.

I do a lot of PAN-F medium format. Photo-flow fil for 1 minute, hang using a film hanger with a sharp needle that punctures the end of the fil to really hold it well (simple compression clip will not hold tight enough) and use 2 photo sponges dunked in the photo-flow solution, wring out most of water and sandwich the film between the two while it's hanging and will light pressure, just enough to take off the water pull the spnges downward. It takes me about 5-7 seconds to run the length of the fil. You will NOT ever end up with a spot this way. Haven't scracthed the film either.

Check bellows for pinhole lite leaks in a dark room with a lightbulb extended into the bellows from the rear with the back off. Go to Home Depot and buy a can of black "Plasti-Dip" which is used to coat handles of tools. Paint the Plasti-Dip over the pin holes both on the inside and outside. I just did this to about 100 pinholes on an old Kodack 2D camera. Solved my fogging. I would like to thank Ryan Mcintosh for the tip. Checkout his website and auction listings: he does great work....

http://www.ryanmcintosh.net/index.php

I have a Kodak 2D 8X10 with no front tilt or swing. It does have

rear tilt. I shoot mostly landscapes so would pointing the camera

down and tilting the back standard backwards from the top accomplish

nearly the same in terms of tilting the plane of focus?

 

Thanks

 

Paul

Anyone have an 8X10 BTZS Tube laying around collecting dust? I have

one, but 2-3 sure would be nice.

Can someone suggest their preferences for a medium format enlarger

that will be used solely for black and white? I'd like the future

prospect of 6X9 but would settle for 6X7. Looking specifically for

ease of use dialing in filters for variable contrast as well as high

quality build..

 

Many thanks

 

Paul

I bet I win biggest clutz award. I hopped down a 6 inch rise of gravel on the edge of a country road (yes, I said 6 inches, not 6 feet), fell on my butt, and my tripod I was holding with my Mamiya 7II and 43 mm ($1500 lens) hit the asphault road LENS first, not to mention the top corner of the Mamiya body. Had my 2 little boys with me and I don't think they will ever see me sadder the rest of their lives.....

Stephan

Yes, I've been using 1+59 and or 1+63 so I'm right about there at Dilution "H". I just remember years ago using Kodak's recommendationa nd my negs are truly bulletproof. I read somewhere that someone really liked cutting the dilution in half and thought I would give it a try. HC110 is very easy to store and find anywhere, I just hate the initial dilution when trying to measure out the syrup. I'm trying making a 1+9 stock, storing that, then diluting 1+5, which is fast and easy. Will probably use the 1+9 liter stock before it goes bad.

 

Anyways to answer your question I've been developing a fair number of films (TRI-X:320 and 400, HP5, and PANF) all around 7-9 minutes. Tweaking the time based upon the contrast range of the images I've shot. HP5 just looks too flat. The others look great. Agitation is either every 30 seconds or every minute.

I've been getting back into doing medium format, 4X5, and 8X10

processing in my garage now that I know longer have a darkroom

(having moved from Michigan to California where there are no

basements). I've been trying a lot of different films. I plan on

contact printing and evenutally enlarging, but am especially

pleasantly surprised by the looks of the Ilford PAN-F negatives

coming out of my HC110 (1/64 dilution). Haven't printed yet but

does anyone have any thoughts on PAN-F and what developers do you

like the most? The neagtives look beautiful. Only wish Ilford made

PAN-F in sheet film sizes....

Does anyone in the USA know whereI can acquire Tri-X (400 ASA) in

8X10? It looks to be available in Europe. Why not the US?

I have a naive question but need help so here goes. I recently just

entered into the realm of 8X10 with the purchase of a Kodak 2D.

I've shot 4 images and processed the film. Have not yet contact

printed my negatives but from visual inspection they look a tad out

of focus. Here is a typical shot: Standing on the cliffs at Torrey

Pines shooting at a downward angle towards the beach/water hundreds

of feet below me. My question is that since the front standard has

no tilt, but the back does, what is the proper procedure to focus

the camera when pointing down and trying to lock in to a plane of

focus hundreds of feet away. Do I: 1)Point camera down 2) focus on

the bottom of the groundglass 3) tilt the back standard back until

the top of the ground glass is in focus? How much tilt do I need?

Any help is appreciated

Don

Agree, they are great for rolling. I'm just trying Dixactol for the first time and the compensating effects it's supposed to provide rule out rolling. Evidently need stand developing. First negative came out pretty nice (it appears thin and flat but the stain is supposed to adjust for that). Unfortunately I have one 1/2 inch scratch about an inch from one of the sides. Guess I was not careful loading the film. will try the second sheet tonite and see if it comes out clean. I'm planning on trying to stick to one techniques (AZO Grade 3 paper in Amidol). May take a few days before my first contact print but I'll let you know how it comes out.

Regards

PAul

Well, I just shot my first 2 8X10 images at the cliffs overlooking

Black's Beach here in La Jolla. Ilford HP5 in a Kodak 2D that I

landed from the auction center. Looking forward to trying to

develop using a BTZS tube that's been sitting in my garage with the

best intentions for some 8 years. Took me that long to finally get

my 8X10. Just recently got some Dixactol for my medium format and

thought I would use it in the BTZS without rolling, just stand and

agitation. Not too interested in flipping in a tray. Any comments

or suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks

Paul

Can someone remind me of the merits associated with both 320 Pro and

400 Tri-X. I shoot medium format and and starting in 4X5 and

hopefully 8X10 and would like to know why shoot one over the other,

primarily landscapes and portraits.

 

Is Kodak going to discontinue these films soon?