leif_goodwin8

B&H can and do and are highly reputable.

 

Bear in mind that the current exchange rate makes it rather unfavourable. And also bear in mind that a reputable shop must declare the item to customs. So you pay sticker price, shipping, insurance, customs duty and VAT on all of those other items.

"I wonder if the mirror vibration is less noticeable in the D300 due to its sturdier body than other lighter cameras like the D90. "

 

It seems to depend on the lens and the camera. Years ago I used a Nikon 200mm AIS F4 lens on a F80 body (plastic, light) with a cable release and was unable to get sharp images without placing a bean bag on the camera. Exposure shorted than about 1/400" were okay, as very long ones (seconds).

 

There are all sorts of benefits from a more expensive camera which are not apparent in the specs!

Edward Ingold said: "The same flexibility that makes them useful for macro work also makes them a PITA for conventional photography. It must be meticulously adjusted each time you set it up, whether for a routine shot or a closeup in nature."

 

I'm afraid I completely disagree with that and I think it is factually inaccurate. I find the Benbo/Uniloc much quicker to operate than a normal tripod, as there is only one lever to unlock all three legs. (But make sure you hold the camera or centre column when loosening that lever.) What's more the leg mechanism is very well designed, and in 10 years of use I never once had to clean them, unlike Gitzo. The Gitzo is slower to operate but no more so than a normal tripod. But the leg mechanisms are more finicky and need cleaning.

 

If you are not interested in macro, especially nature, then don't get a Benbo/Uniloc/Explorer. You do lose a bit of stability. But if you are, well a normal tripod is not versatile enough. What if you find a small fungus on a tree trunk. A normal tripod would not allow a close enough approach as the legs get in the way. With a Benbo you can lift two legs above the horizontal and rest them against the tree. Or what if you find an insect on a steep river bank. With a Benbo you can leave the legs unfolded, turn the centre column through 90 degrees, and hang the camera over the side of the bank, while lying on the tripod legs to get stability. (That is how I got pictures of some dragonflies emerging from the nymph stage.) You can't do that with a normal tripod. And what if you find a small fungus such as Geoglossum fallax at ground level. How do you get that low with a normal tripod? Carry a bean bag? Okay, but they weigh 1Kg+. Or buy an L-bracket weighing 40g and use a Benbo/Explorer. Oh, and having 2 or 3 angles for the legs simply is not good enough for macro work, as it severely constrains you. It is trivial to set the height of the Benbo. Just loosen the lever, left the centre column to the desired height, tighten the lever. Easy peasy. I use the Benbo when photographing active insects as it is so easy and quick to use. The Gitzo is a bit slower as there are three leg locks to release (which I think is as per a normal tripod).

 

As I've said, for landscape only, get a standard Gitzo or brand X as that will give maximum stability for a given weight and price. For macro, get a Benbo/Uniloc/Explorer but avoid the Benbo Trekker which IMO is rubbish (flimsy and badly made).

I have just received a lens hood for an 85mm micro from Bristol Cameras thanks to seeing the earlier link. £15 + very reasonable postage. It is plastic, and most shops charge £30. Ouch.

If weight is not an issue, go for one of the larger Benbo or Uniloc tripods though some such as the Uniloc 1600 are not tall enough for general use. Otherwise if you want light and rigid and don't mind paying go for a Gitzo Explorer. The Aluminium Gitzo is probably the best compromise being relatively inexpensive. I have used both the Uniloc 1600 and Gitzo Explorer CF GF2531EX with a 400mm F5.6 lens with no problems

MLU is of great benefit especially with macros. For longish exposures (which means less than 1/100") it is a must IMO if you want optimum sharpness.

If you ever need a Nikon accessory, chances are that Grays of Westminster will have it. They will charge you an arm and a leg, plus first options on your remaining bodily parts after you die, but at least you will get your item.

 

Ebay does have some items but some are fake as I know to my cost even when in 'official' Nikon wrappers.

 

The UK price of some items such as lens hoods is outrageous when compared to the US.

I did not like the Manfrotto rail for various reasons:

 

1) When you turn the screw, the plate wobbles from side to side.

2) When you tighten the lock the plate moves to one side.

 

I found it frustrating and add on a QR platform and plate and it is not light. Chinese units such as the Velbon on ebay are IMO better. By all accounts the Novoflex and RRS units are the best but at a price.

I have the previous version which has superb optics. There is not much to criticise. It is not really suitable for macro

flash photography as the front element is deeply recessed thereby reducing working distance. Sharpness is

excellent down to F16, and F22 is usable unlike many lenses. On an FX camera F22 would be very good. The only

oddity I find is that metering even when unshifted and untilted is usually out by about 2 stops. That might be the

camera's fault though (a D200). It is not a fast lens to use, but who's in a hurry?

 

I tried it on a TC14A and was surprised at the decent image quality which is probably a testament to how good the

lens is. It also works well on tubes to go to 1:1. Unaided it reaches 1:2.

 

I use it for fungi, plants, especially wild flowers, and sometimes insects.

As stated in the other thread, it is worth having dual backups, and use a surge protector. Also keep one of the backups off site, or at least in the other side of the house. A thief could break in and take the PC and external drives. And a fire could wipe out your files, hence having a copy off site, or at least at the far side of the house, increasing the likelihood of one copy surviving. Or use a fire safe!

I use an old DR3, Cheap used and well made. I once owned a Chinese unit and it was not up to scratch.

I recall over 20 years ago when an advert appeared for an early home computer. It was compared with a Cray XMP 48 supercomputer. In terms of features the home computer won, though the Cray did have external seating.

 

Having never used either lens, but with experience of third party lenses, I'd say get the pro-Nikkor. I bet it gives a more contrasty image. The mechanics will be better.

I found that using the built in flash set to -2 stops with auto WB usually gives very good WB, and much better than auto WB with no flash. I suspect the pre-flash allows the camera to detect the actual colours of the scene since the temperature of the flash light is known.

 

The problem with the preset is that outdoors the light can change rapidly rendering a preset less than perfect.

The Unliloc 1600 is a good legset at a bargain price. Stocked by Jessops (eeek) last time I looked.

Michael: As mentioned, since you are shooting landscapes, and time is on your side, just use a grey card to generate a preset WB. And shoot RAW. That way you will get excellent results.

I find that using the pop up flash set for fill -2 stops ensures good auto WB. I believe the pre-flash allows the camera to determine the true colours of the scene and calculate an accurate WB. The explanation is supposition but it works, at least on the D200.

"try holding the glass over a containing of steaming water"

 

Blimey, I would have thought that was the best way to induce fungus inside the lens.

 

Very pure isopropyl alcohol works, but it must be pure or you'll deposit gunk. I find that eclipse fluid works well. You could use a micro fibre cloth but the problem is that any dirt on it will grind in scratches. I prefer Pec Pads. First use a blower to remove grit from the lens. Then use one Pec Pad moistened with a couple of drops of Eclipse, and give a few wipes. Throw it away. And repeat until clean. Use only light pressure to avoid wearing away the coatings.

 

Isopropyl alcohol does not dissolve all dirt so if you use it you might try a few drops of tap water first. Yes it has gunk in it, but the isopropyl will remove that afterwards, once it has dissolved the water soluble dirt.

 

As Oskar says, cotton wool works too, but make sure it is clean, and do not touch the surface you will use for cleaning.

 

Be careful about fluid dripping round the edge of the lens, and into the insides!

I don't really agree with Thom Hogan's essay as there are some very good tripods that are not top end. I used a modest tripod for 10 years and could have carried on using it for many more years had I not found a 'posh' carbon fibre tripod on sale.

 

A traditional tripod is not so good for macro as it is not flexible. But I guess it depends how much macro you will do.

 

For macro, Uniloc and Benbo are very good, but avoid the Benbo Trekker which is flimsy. They are cheap too and Warehouse Express sell them. The Uniloc 1600 is pretty good, but it might not be tall enough for you. They are well made, but heavy compared to top end carbon fibre tripods. If you buy one, make sure you hold the camera when you release the main knob. I am told that roughening the bearing surfaces on the main lock helps prevent slip. The Gitzo Explorer is IMO better, but about 4 times the price for the CF version.

 

For a head, one of the Manfrotto geared heads might do you. I have not used one, so do not know how they are for macro. Good for landscapes though. Make sure the head is rated to carry a much larger load than you intend to use.

"Last year bought my first DSLR for Warehouse Express and found the price was very good. I would be reluctant to buy from Jessops due to reluctance to compete on price and their attitude to customers which always strikes me as arrogant and other posts on this subject have confirmed this to me. "

 

I can second the vote for WE. I have bought quite a few items from them, and had one or two issues with the products (not the fault of WE) and their response has been first rate. A very good shop.

 

As for Jessops, they are the most atrocious shop I have ever dealt with, and I have had a stream of problems, which on one occasion elicited a written apology and compensation. Very arrogant, very bad service, very unprofessional. And expensive. I could list the issues, but it would be long and boring.

I forgot about the CA. It was bad (on film).

I presume you mean the AF lens? I bought one cheaply some years back as it had some good online user comments. When it arrived I found that it is quite heavy, and has no tripod mount. Use it on a tripod mounted plastic bodied camera, and the camera will warp due to the weight. I'm not sure the effect on a metal camera would be good either. It also has a small focus ring. So handling wise, it is poor. Optically it seemed fairly sharp, but contrast is low, and I did not think it good enough. The pictures I took always looked flat. I sold mine at little loss and I do not recommend it. I am sure many of the more modern consumer zooms are far better.

 

The 75-150mm F3.5E is a better lens, but a shorter FL range.

"The poll was done in April 2004."

 

Which was before even the D200 was announced, and as for the D300, D3 and D700, they were just a twinkle in Nikon's eye. To be honest back then Nikon was not a credible competitor.

I think the issue might be the relatively high price of FX sensors. For that reason any FM styled camera would be expensive, and probably would not sell enough. I did wonder what was wrong with a consumer DSLR with a prime, as bodies such as the D40 are small, but I guess the view finder is dim, and you do not want a cropped image. Is there any particular aspect of the FM2 you want? Small body? FX sensor? Old fashioned metal build. Styling?

 

As an aside, I used to use an Fe, and it is beautifully made, but a modern DSLR is so much nicer. The Fe got horribly cold in cold weather, the aperture and exposure settings were hard to see in low light, and the shape was angular and uncomfortable. I soon yearned for a modern camera.

"Well, the chip has information that helps produce more accurate exposures"

 

But only if it is the right one. Roland put a 300mm F4 chip in my 200mm micro which stuffs up Nikon Capture's processing of images from the lens.

The problem with chipping the lens is that unless you can get a chip from a lens with the same spec. you will end up telling the camera the wrong focal length, which might slightly mess up metering. So you are better off doing as suggested above. Also, check out reviews of Roland. Usually he does an excellent job, but not everyone is happy, and there are some horror stories.