craig_maxwell

Thank You to all who took the time to answer, but in reading these very helpful

and thoughful answers I realized I may have actually asked the right question in the

wrong way and used the word "capacity" incorrectly. After reading the responses I

realized I should have asked -- Ca we rely upon the manufacturer recommendations

for the minimum amount of developer volume needed to properly develop a given roll

of film. ie the Kodak recommendation for using 100 ml of UNDILUTED D-76 per each

80 sq. in. of film. Or should we use more developer than that as per recommended by

some, 250ml UNDILUTED D-75 or Xtol per 80 sq. in OR 500 ml of DILUTED D-76 or

Xtol 1:1.. Again just to clarify, I'm using the diluted developers a one-shot.

Hi There,

 

OK, I have another question for the film experts that hang out here on this most

informative and helpful forum. My curiosity concerns the accuracy of manufacturers

published information regarding the capacity of how much film their respective film

developers will properly process. For example, I have used both D-76 and Xtol

extensively for several years, (D-76 for over 30) and have always followed the

recommendations stated in the data sheets regarding the number of rolls that can be

properly processed for a given amount of developer at a given dilution, ie. D-76 1:1,

Xtol 1:1. But in reading a rather popular and often quoted cookbook on film

developing, the author states emphatically that the manufacturers developer

capacities are incorrect and goes on to recommend a developer capacity that is much

lower, ie. less actual rolls (sq. in. of film) for a given developer and dilution. BUT, in

contemplating this author's recommendation, it seems that if one were to use a

standard Nikor type stainless steel, 16oz capacity tank to develop 5 rolls of 35mm

Tr-X using D-76 at 1:1, all the rolls would quite possibly be underdeveloped. Since

this 16oz size tank was commonly used for film processing for many years, I wonder

if all those countless rolls of film were in fact underdeveloped. SO, my question is

thus, should we trust the accuracy of the manufacturers data regarding film developer

capacity, or should we follow some of the other sources for recommendations, OR

should we actually test this and check the various results ourselves using

sensitometry. My initial thought is that Kodak and others have had some pretty smart

people there working on all this and thier recommendation should be trusted. Also, I

use the BTZS Film Tubes for developing 4x5 sheet film, and the amount of developer

used in these tube recommend by Mr. Phil Davis seems quite low, but his system

works beautifully and his methodolgy, knowledge and experience is far greater than

mine. Thoughts, Comments???

Thanks to all who answered my apparently "not so dumb" question. The

explanation certainly sheds light on the process and has satisfied my curuosity. It is

a bit of a stretch for me to actually imagine the entire process on the molecular

level, but it actually makes such elegant sense. My parents bought me a Sears

Junior Home Developing & Printing set when I was 8, so I have been working in the

medium for 40 years now, the past 20 of which professionally as a commercial

photographer, and I confess to have taken for granted, the AMAZING phenomenon

we call Photography. Thanks to all and here is wishing you a helathy and

prosperous new year in 2005.

Ok, here is a question about black & white film (all films for that matter) that I have

been curious about for some time now. Why does film give us different densities in

relation to the amount of light striking the emulsion. OK, let me explain, as I

understand it, black & white film is coated with an emulsion of silver halide

suspended in a gelatin mixture, probably a lot of other things in the gelatin as well,

but onward. So, if this even coating of emulsion containing individual silver grains is

exposed to light and developed, the resulting silver density will be proportional to the

amount of light that exposed the film, but why?. Since each individual grain of silver

halide is essentially "binary", it either is exposed to the light or it isn't and hence it

will change to metallic silver or not, why do we get various densities of the negative. I

have conducted my share of zone system tests so I KNOW that in fact film does

respond to various light intensities, but how. If the individual grains either are

exposed or not exposed, should we not get just either a clear film base or d-max,

what give us all the tones in between. ???? Does it have to do with the thicknes of the

emulsion and the depth that the light penetrates or.....

Thanks for answering this very basic question.

Hi,

 

I was wondering if anyone on this forum is currently using the Microtek Artixscan 1800f

scanner to scan 4x5 size transparencies and negatives. I was hoping that someone out

there would be able to answer a question I have about the 4x5 film holders that come

with this particular scanner. Specifically, when using the supplied 4x5 film holder, how

much of the 4x5 film is "cropped", ie: the holder muct conceal a small amount of each

of the four edges of the film and I was hpoing to determine how much of

the film will essentially be cropped, is it 1/8" or less ?? orperhaps more ?? then how

much.

Thanks, any other comments about this particular scanner which I'm considering would

be helpful.

Well it is fairly obvious to me, our one and only, the ever present and hugely talented,

Mr. Al Kaplan, why he even is revered on T-shirts bearing his likeness. I have NEVER

seen a Cartier-Bresson T-shirt !

Hi All

 

Thanks for the contact info, I have been in email communication with Sherry this

afternoon and FOR ME, it seesm like an used M6 with a finder upgrade and

overhaul / CLA will be a better choice than an MP.

 

Craig "Not a Poseur, but a Flaneur" Maxwell

Hi

 

Could someone kindly pass on the contact info for DAG, not wanting to be a

poseur, I'm more of a flaneur, I'm considering getting an M6 and would like to have

the Viewfinder upgraded. How much do they charge for this and how long do they

usually keep the camera to complete this work

 

Thanks

SO,

 

I have a question regarding this scanner, specifically the 45 film holders, how much do the 4x5 film holders crop the film, how much do they crop into the image area,,, Thanks

OK,

 

I'm familiar with Nitro Burst in large commercial labs, but this sounds like a super way to go the serious home user, especially considering the smaller chemistry capacities of the tanks. Now for a dumb question, what about the Nitrogen tanks, am I correct to assume a local compressed gas dealer will deliver the tank, and pick-up the empties??, I seem to recall that the tanks are HEAVY, not something I could toss into the back of the old Volvo wagon. Also, how much is a tank of Nitrogen these days and about how long will a tank last, my guess is quite a long time considering the amount of film an average home user would process. And finally, how much is the Arkay system, and are they still available new from the manufacturer.. Thanks

Hi, Just curious as what was meant by extended printing times, I'm thinking of getting this head along with a 4500 Saunders. Any info would be appreciated, ie, how long are those printing times

Hi Gene,

 

I'm interested if you could explain the purpose of the "thin plastic ring" that you refer to in your post. I'm confused, if the interlock still functions, what is the added spacer ring for. Thanks...

I would like to thank everyone for their thoughtful and well communicated answers. Obviously I will have to learn to live with my interconnected C lenses. Since my Hasselblad is not the primary camera that I use, maybe I need some practice in order to better handle the interconnected lenses when bracketing in plus and minus 1/2 stop increments.

Hi All,

I have a few Hasselblad C lenses with the interconnectd shutter

speed/aperture. I have never liked this setup and was wondering if

anyone knows whether or not the interconnect mechanism can be

disconnected and if so, can you recommend a repair tech that can

perform this service. Thanks

Hi Chris,

 

<p>

 

I have used a Caltar ll-S 360mm f6.8 lens for several years, I

beleive that the one I have was made by Rodenstock. As I understand

the situation, Caltar lenses were made for Calumet by EITHER

Schnieder or Rodenstock depending upon which company was awarded the

contract to supply lenses to Calumet. Either way, they are fabulous

lenses and I'm certain that you will be getting a fine lens. As you

know, I'm using 8x10 less now, but just yesterday I shot a job using

my 360 on 4x5. The resulting color transparencies were spectacular as

would be expected. The $800.00 price sounds very good indeed, just

make sure that you test the shutter speeds on the shutter and get a

no questions asked return option with full refund if you decide not

to keep the lens after you run some tests with it. My 2 cents anyway.

Hi Dave,

 

<p>

 

Since I use several different large format lenses on both my 4x5 and

8x10 cameras the use of screw-in type filter became a major problem

for me. I have started using the Lee Gel-Snap filter holder. This

simple device allows me to use 4" gelatin or polyester filters on any

one of my lenses. It really is simplicity in itself, the Gel-Snap

holder attaches to the outside part of the lens barrel with a large

rubber band. It works great and allows me to carry a large variety of

filters that take up very little room in my backpack. I purchased it

through B&H Photo.

Hi Ron,

 

<p>

 

I have been using an 8x10 Burke & James Commercial View for about 4

years now and have produced many excellent photographs (landscape,

portraits and even some studio still-life)using this camera. I have

also use a Kodak commercial Ektar 14" lens and a Kodak 10" Wide Field

Ektar lens and have been pleased with both. My work is primarily in

black & white from which I make contact prints in either the

traditional silver or platinum medium. While I'm basically very happy

with this older camera it certainly has it's drawbacks compared to a

newer 8x10 filed camera such as a Wisner or a Toyo 810M (my dream

8x10). Basically the B&J's are quite functional BUT I have found it

to be fairly flimsy particularly in the area of the front and rear

standards attaching to the bed. I basically have learned to live with

it's drawbacks. I do not think you could go wrong with any of the

cameras you are considering for starting in 8x10, you can always sell

the camera later to upgrade and keep all the lenses and various items

needed, ie lenses, tripod, film holders etc. Just watch out for old

worn bellows which will leak light during exposures.

Well, for what it's worth, during the past two weeks I photographed

separate industrial and architectural assignments on location using

Fuji Astia 120 size in my Hasselblad. Photographing under

flourescent, Tungsten and Metal Halide light sources, my Minolta

Color Meter 4 was absolutely accurate regarding the filter

corrections it recommended.

Hi Peter,

 

<p>

 

I have owned the Minolta meter for several years, and as as studio

food photographer, have been quite pleased with it's performance. I

have looked at your website, and you are a very talented and

obviously experienced and capable photographer. I'm certain that

either meter would NOT have any affect whatsoever on your creative

vision and artistic ability. My 2 cents...!!!

Hi John,

 

<p>

 

I have the original instruction manual that came with a Luna pro that

I bought recently. Basically Page 7 covers two topics, "Testing the

Batteries" and "Testing Zero Position". Testing the batteries tells

one how to test the batteries, on the back of the meter there is a

slide switch, without touching the actual meter activation rocker

switch, slide the switch on the rear of the meter towards the arror.

If the batteries are good the meter indicator needle will point to

the RED index on the measuring scale on the meter's face (front).

To test the zero position REMOVE the batteries from the meter and

press the meter's activation rocker switch in either direction The

meter indicator needle should now come to rest on the "check line" to

the left of scale divisions, that is the dark line on the far left of

the meter's scale. To adjust the zero check point, HOLD DOWN THE

METER ACTIVATION ROCKER SWITCH while turning thr adjustment screw on

the backside of the meter. I hope this helps, please feel free to

email me if you need any further assistance. If I had a scanner I

would have just emailed you the page from the manual. I hope my

paraphrasing did not confuse the meaning of the instructions. P.S. I

just received my meter from Bogen after it was in to repair it back

to working condition, at the same time they installed the battery

adapter and it seems to work just fine.

Hi Everyone,

 

<p>

 

Does anyone have any info on the Caltar/Ilex Wide Field f-8 90mm lens,

dates of production, performance, image circle. I have heard from a friend that this lens was a copy of a f-8 90mm Super Angulon. I'm thinking about purchasing this lens a an economical (approx $325.00)entry to the 90mm focal length. The new 90mm lenses are quite expensive, more than I had realized. Someone also suggested the f-6.3 120mm Osaka Commercial lens imported by Bromwell, any comments on this lens as well.

I have recently purchased a Hugo Meyer 200mm F-9 Weitwinkel-Aristostigmat lens and was told this was a wide angle lens that will cover 8x10. Can anyone tell me anything about this lens, it's age, performance opinions ?. Any info on the Hugo Meyer Co. which frankly I have never heard of before. Thanks

Hello everyone, First of all, I want to thank everyone on this Forum for making it such a valuable resource. Now for a question, I just purchased a Burke & James 5x7 Commercial View camera and included was a Thornward symmetrical convertble series IV f8 6 1/2 - 8 1/2 lens. This lens was originally manufactured in Chicago, but I have never heard of this lens and was curious if anyone on the forum has had experience with this lens, is familiar with it it's performance or can provide any info on the Thornward Co. Thanks

Hi Everyone,

My beloved Gossen Luna Pro lightmeter has stopped working, I changed

the batteries (Yes, I was able to gat a couple of Varta Mercury 1.35V

batteries at a local swap meet) and still no luck. Can anyone give me

any repair recommendations, I'm in San Francisco but I do not mind

sendng it off for service.

Hi Everyone,

 

<p>

 

First of all thanks so much to everyone for sharing such a tremendous

wealth of information!!!!I have really learned quite a bit from this

list. Now for a question, I recently purchased a Hasselblad Quick

Focus handle and stamped on it is a very small Number "1". Will this

handle work with my older C T* Lenses,ie 50mm, 80mm, 150mm. I tried

to mount it to the focusing ring of my 80mm and 150mm and it sure

seemed really tight even though I completely removed the clamp

tightening screw. Any advice.....