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michaelbrochstein

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Posts posted by michaelbrochstein

  1. I recently purchased the Really Right Stuff Wedding Pro bracket talked about above and used it at one multi-day event as well as one evening event. In a word, it is "GREAT!". I've used various brackets over the years (ones we've all heard of) and the RRS bracket is better for the following reasons;

     

    1. A perfect, no twist secure fit because the required (RRS) "L" bracket is a custom fit for each camera model. BTW, the RRS "L" plates (and the rest of their system with their ballheads etc) are also great!.

     

    2. Folds up to a very small size so that storing it in your bag is not a space issue.

     

    3. Lightweight, little added weight and as light or lighter than any competitor bracket.

     

    4. Smooth, easy, fast function. I've never had a bracket which operated in so predictable a manner. Most rely on having just the right amount of friction in the pivot bolt so that the flash doesn't "fall" out of the position you want it to be in. The RRS Wedding Pro bracket clicks into position (for horizontal or vertical shooting) and can't move without your pushing a release.

     

    5. Adjustable height above camera (applies mostly to when it is used in the horizontal/landscape orientation).

     

    Bottomline is that I may even buy a second one,...

  2. First, I own or have rented most of the lenses mentioned here.

     

    The Nikon 70-200/2.8 is fast and sharp but is noticeably heavier and larger than the 18-200. There is no comparison IMHO. The excellent 18-200 and 70-200 do not overlap is actual usage as the 18-200 is a lightweight do all lens that is slower and not as sharp as the 70-200 (an amazingly sharp lens). Typically, the choice is by type of shooting (serious = 70-200 as weight is less important, travel/causal = 18-200). I own and like both lenses but there is almost no overlap for me in actual usage.

     

    For serious quality shooting I use a combo of the 17-55/2.8 and the 70-200. Both are excellent. The 12-24 is unique below 17mm so it can't compare easily with the other lenses here. It is certainly better in its focal length range than the 18-200.

     

    The 80-400 has never been considered fast to focus. I also use the TC's for the 70-200 and would choose this combo over the 80-400.

     

    I rented the 200-400 and while a great lens, it is much bigger and heavier compared to the others mentioned so far.

     

    For birds and wildlife a fast and long prime lens (300/2.8 etc) with a TC or two might be the ticket. With a combo of stellar optics, VR and TC's to use it would be very versatile albeit heavy and expensive. Short of that I would opt for the 70-200 for quality, VR, speed and ability to use TC's.

     

    I might suggest renting a lens before buying it to get an idea whether you like it in actual use (I did this with the 70-200 and ended up buying it after a couple of rentals). Good luck in your choosing.

  3. The RRS ballheads and "L" body (and lens?) plates are the best IMHO. Skip the straight body plates as they are limiting at times.

     

    Since the RRS stuff will cost more a small sum, I'd recommend the Bogen 3021PRO (or 3021BPRO) tripod which is a safe bet and a good value. After you earn some more $ then consider a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod. Good luck!

  4. If you are turning pro and expect to make this your life's vocation (and avocation) and money is not an object then go with Elinchrom, Profoto etc. If your budget is more modest and/or this is not a full time profession for you then look into Alien Bee's and Whilte Lightning units. They are both well regarded (I have White Lightnings and recommend them) and only available online from the manufacturer. BTW, there are articles and postings on photo.net that address your quesry in more detail.
  5. FYI; The two largest and best stocked camera stores in NYC are closed from April 2 through April 10 (they re-open on April 11) because of the Passover holiday. B&H is especially interesting to visit as it is so large and has lots of stuff on display in it etc,... The prices are more similar than different between these two stores.
  6. I own the BH-55 (and a BH-40 and a BH-25) and I have been very very happy with it. I use the lever release models as they are much faster to use than the screw know closure models. Be aware that the RRS plates (I recommend the "L" plates over the smaller straight plates) work with RRS and Wimberley equipment but may not work with other Arca-Swiss type equipment - better to ask ahead of time!

     

    To answer your questions, the BH-55 ballhead movement smoothness is excellent and its holding power is also great. I've used the BH-55 with a Wimberley Sidekick and a Nikon 200-400 f/4 (bigger and heavier than a 300/2.8) and was very happy with the experience. I also debated the Markins vs. RRS dilemma and while I have no first hand experience with the Markins, I am very happy with the various ballheads, plates, panning setup etc etc from RRS. The RRS site has links to a few reviews on the RRS ballhead which may be worth reading. I would recommend the RRS equipment with two thumbs up!

  7. First, read this article by Thom Hogan as it is a classic; http://www.bythom.com/support.htm

     

    One of the tripods I own is a Manfrotto 3021BPRO which costs about $150. It will do what you want but is not the lightest. For a ballhead try a Manfrotto 486, I've been happy with it. If you are willing to spend the money then a Gitzo 1158 and a Really Right Stuff BH-40 ballhead is a lighter but much more expensive option. Alternatively, a Manfrotto 3001 tripod is about a pound lighter than the 3021.

  8. Unless weight is an important issue then the Manfrotto models should be more than adequate for most monopod uses. I agree with Peter regarding what to spend (Manfrotto is less expensive than Gitzo) unless weight is very important and only then go for the Gitzo CF models. FWIW, I use Gitzo CF tripods (for their weight/size efficiency) and have an old Manfrotto CF monopod that has served me well (and which cost me much less than any Gitzo CF alternative). The only noticeable difference the Gitzo and Manfrotto models is the leg lock design. Unless that or weight are killer differences for you then I agree with Peter re: monopods. The Manfrotto models are generally safe and good choices.
  9. There is no issue of the quality of D80, D200 or D40's made in Thailand versus Japan as all of these have only (to the best of my knowledge) been made in Thailand (never in Japan, prototypes excepted). Anything you are likely to have heard, read or know about any of these cameras (as well as D50's and D70's) was about cameras made in Thailand. I have owned 4 DSLR cameras made in their Thailand plant (two D200's currently) and their quality control seems fine, no worse and no better than if it were made in Japan (as my older Nikons were). FWIW, I also have owned various lenses made in their Thailand plant and have never had any problems with them that were manufacturing related.
  10. I've rented from Glazer's before and was very happy with the transaction. I live in NYC and thay are in Seattle so they shipped the lens to me. I've also rented from Lens & Repro in NYC and have also been happy when I've dealt with them.
  11. I've owned both the 18-70 and th 18-200. That I sold the 18-70 and have kept the 18-200 should be telling. It is a great one-lens solution for traveling. It is, IMHO (and check Thom Hogan and Bjørn Rørslett online reviews) better in almost every way that the 18-70.

     

    In comparing these two lenses there are three areas where the 18-70 beats the 18-200. Two are size and weight but you already knew this just from the spec's. The other is that there is indeed zoom creep. When you are carrying the lens in a downward facing direction the zoom will creep into its longest position. While I am not a fan of this at all, I don't know of a better lens in the 18-200 category. The 18-200 seems IMHO to be a sharper and more versatile lens (with VR!) than the 18-70.

     

    I do not regret selling the 18-70 when I got the 18-200. I highly recommend the 18-200 if you can stand the zoom creep (and its greater size and weight).

     

    Another alternative is to get the 17-55/2.8. Extremely sharp and fast with no zoom creep. Other than having no VR, it is better than the other lenses listed here (but also is a bit heavier and a little larger than the 18-200). It costs more but "you get what you pay for".

  12. I would suggest the 18-70 (I used to own one). It is well rated and is light and not too big physically. The 18-200 is great but much larger and heavier. If the 18-200 is small and light enough then I would choose it as the best one-lens travel solution (I use it in that way and I am very happy), otherwise the 18-70 may be the best compromise. As for lightness in a body, maybe the D40 would be even lighter/smaller?
  13. Charles Stobbs talks in his post about renting a car to see sights outside of NYC. I agree with his advice in general but want to make clear that I think you should save your money and not rent a car for travel within NYC. New Yorkers (and I'm one of them) walk and take public transportation. For what you want to do then I would advise against using a rental car within NYC because of the heavy traffic and major parking hassles (public garages are very expensive).
  14. Try the Really Right Stuff BH-25 ballhead (and get their "L" brackets for your cameras). For its weight it is the best IMHO. I use that with a Gitzo 1058 for a very lightweight combo (i.e. for hiking). The next level up would be a BH-40 and a Gitzo 1158. My guess is that the later combo is the heaviest necessary for your intended use.
  15. If I understand you correctly then you are saying that your friend is offering you a slightly used D200, 18-200 and a SB-800 for $2,000. If that is the case then keep walking. You can buy this brand new from a reputable dealer for similar or less.

     

    On your question re: the 18-200; It is the best 18-200 available. Is it as good as other lenses in its range ssuch as the 17-55 and 70-200? No, but it also costs much less and is much lighter.

  16. For night photography the issues include mirror lockup, long exposure noise reduction and any amp noise issues for long exposures. The D200 is a safe bet. The D80, if it has long exposure noise reduction, is probably too similar in results as I don't think you will easily see any issues. There was an issue of amp noise in long exposures in early samples with the D80. I am not 100% sure if the issue is history now but if it is (I think so) then the cost savings for getting a D80 might make it worthwhile to you. If the cost issue is not an issue for you then the D200 is a safer bet. If cost is an issue I would probably go for the D80 assuming it has the long exposure noise reduction feature and assuming the early amp noise issues have been resolved.

     

    As for the construction quality; I've owned a D70 and a D200 and while there is a difference, for most people in most circumstances, the difference will not result in one camera working better for them than the other IMHO.

     

    I would recommend reading Thom Hogan (www.bythom.com) and dpreview (www.dpreview.com) reviews of these cameras for more information.

  17. I would recommend a multicoated B&W or Heliopan UV filter to always sit on your lens for protection and the multicoated B&W or Heliopan circular polarizer filter. I would skip getting a skylight filter if you buy the UV filter. Don't fret any mention of digital vs. film appropriate filters. BTW, this is what I do with my equipment (including a D200 and an 18-200) and I am happy with it etc.
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