butch_welch

Just bought a Mamiya 6 with the 75mm and like it very much. I am thinking of adding the 50mm

but wonder if it has barrel distortion. Anyone using this lens have any images showing straight

lines near the edges that show how straight (or not straight) they are?

I recently went back to film from 3+ years of shooting digital and now I have 2 separate but equal

systems. I sold one to buy the other, than sold the other to buy the one (again). And now I have

wound up with both at the same time. While both do pretty much the same thing I can't seem to

choose one over the other, I love them both. I shoot 120 square images only (mostly in B&W) and

have both a Rollei SL66E and a Hasselblad system. I have tried to stagger lens selection so I

don't duplicate lenses but there is considerable overlap. For the Rollei I have 40, 50, 80, 150, 250

and 500mm lenses, prism, 2 120 backs and 2 extension tubes. For the Hasselblad I have The

501CM with 50CF FLE, 80CF, 100CF and 350CF; an SWC/M, 3 120 film backs and a prism. While

I can do almost anything with either system (I am mostly interested in landscape type things) there

are some advantages to one over the other. The Rollei has 8 degree front tilt up and down, meter

built into camera body, focal plane shutter and very long focus draw built into the camera. I am

able to use a 6" Wollensak Velostigmat f/4.5 Series II soft focus lens with this camera for portraits

and still life. All the lenses are terrific, even the much maligned original 40mm Zeiss f/4 Distagon

with Rollei HFT coating, which has almost no straight line distortion, much less than the

Hasselblad 40mm FLE. The Hasselblad has the somewhat better lenses in the 100mm, 38mm on

the SWC/M and the 180 and perhaps 60mm that I may add soon for the 501CM. I have somewhat

chosen differring focal lengths for the Hassy that I can't get for the Rollei (38, 60, 100, 180, 350).

At any rate, I love both of these cameras, they are quite a bit different in use but nearly identical in

results. I just can't seem to pick one. Anyone else have 2 systems doing virtually the same job

and can't part with either one?

I am interested to hear all comments and suggestions (I already know I am a sick puppy, and that

one need not be repeated...) Or if you know a really good therapist that specializes in...

I lost the link to a web site that has technical information including MTF and distortion graphs for older

Hasselblad lenses. Can anyone point me to this web site?

A 5 minute soak in sodium metaborate (Kodalk) or any alkali of equal strength will remove

the purple tint. I do this regularly right after the fix and before I wash.

I am thinking about getting a used Imacon scanner that is SCSI connected and am wondering if there are

issues with a SCSI to firewire adapter. Do the adapters work well? Can you use them with Mac OSX or do

you need Classic?

You have to set the camera type in the menu. The SWC has a slightly different delay time (no

mirror) than the 500 series. I have used it with the SWC/m and it makes a wonderful small

package.

Anyone using the Phase One P+ backs with the Hasselblad V system? How do you like it? What is the

battery set-up like in the P+, is it internal? Can you mount the backs on a SWC/M without a special

batttery adapter (the Hass CFV needs a battery adapter to mount the back on an SWC/M or EL body)?

I am thinking about getting a P20+ for my 501/SWC cameras (I like to shoot square) but there is a

special on the P20+ with a Mamiya 645 AFDII and 80 for only $1000 more. Trying to decide if that

might be a better way to go with the P20+.

I already know when my camera was made, as I stated 1999 (EE). My question was is this the

last year 903's were made?

I just purchased a like new 903 SWC that was manufactured in 1999 and wonder if this is the last year they

were made. The 905's came out in 2001 I believe, but could have been manufactured in 2000. My 903

has a lens serial number of 881xxx which seems to be a pretty late number for a 38mm CF. Anyone have

a 903 manufactured later than 99 or have any information about this? I was also wondering if the last of

the CF Biogons could have received the extra internal flare suppression that came out with the CFi/CFE

lenses. The last of the FE lenses received it and from the Hasselblad catalogs the 903 was sold along side

the CFi/CFE lenses for the first couple years.

The early Hasselblad bellows have the same cocking mechanism at the front that the

Flexbody has. You can usually pick one up fairly cheaply. Just remove the front (it is just

screwed on) and mount it on a LF lens board.

Has anyone figured out a good filter solution for the Hasselblad 50mm 2.8FE lens? I want to use it for

B&W with several filters. Series 93 drop in filters are scarce and expensive. The threads on the lens are

86mm coarse and the threads on the 2 piece filter holder are larger than 95mm. I have 4 inch polyester

filters I can use but would have to have Grimes make me a custom adapter. What are other people

doing for this lens (and the 40mm CF/CFE for that matter, as it has the same problems)?

Other than the storage method, is there any other difference? Is there any difference in the actual files

from these two digital backs?

Has anyone used both the 150 or 250 lenses in both FE and CF versions and can offer an opinion on

differences and preferences? I would wonder if there is a difference in flare between them as the FE

versions are a full stop faster than their CF counterparts. The shutterless lenses also seem to be lighter

despite the extra speed. Currently the F versions are less expensive than the CF versions (I don't need

the FE version as I am using the 201F with a meter prism.

Has anyone used the Hasselblad 180mm Sonnar with the 1.4 and 2x converters? How good is this

combo for B&W?

Most everything sold. Want to spend more time printing and will have very little time to

shoot in the next several months.

I am quiting photography for a while and will be selling my K10D and lenses, including all the Limited

lenses. Anyone interested please email for a list: butchwelch@charter.net

I had both the 50-200 and the 70-210 A lens. The 50-200 has great color and good micro

contrast but is only useable from f:11 and is still rather soft. The 70-210 is sharp even at f:4

but has less micro contrast than the 50-200 and somewhat duller looking color. I kept the

70-210 and sold the 50-200. For light weight I use the 135mm 3.5 Pentax M lens. It is very

small, light, and is very sharp with excellent contrast. You can usually find mint ones for

around $40.

I just received a new Pentax SMC 14mm 2.8 DA lens and the manual focus ring is very tight and stiff to

turn. Is this normal for this lens? Most AF manual rings are extremely easy to turn so this concerns me.

Anyone else have one of these and can let me know how the focus is on their lens?

Sold my M8 before this arrived. I have a B+W 52mm slim 486 filter. This is the IR/UV cut filter that

eliminates the magenta cast seen in some black fabrics with the M8 and RD-1. This is brand new and

unused, in box and comes with a push on Schneider cap. 52mm is the size for CV 50mm 1.5 Nokton

and 35mm 1.2 Nokton. I am also including new step rings 39mm-46mm, 46mm-52mm and 43m

-52mm. This should make this filter useable on most Leica, Zeiss and CV lenses. I paid $140 but am

selling for $100 hoping someone can use these as they are now very scarce. I will pay shipping to US

(only ship to US) and PayPal fees.

Thanks Leslie for the kind words.

Sales pending on everything.

I didn't keep my M8 so these are for sale.

Zeiss ZM 35mm f2 Biogon complete like new in box $650

Zeiss ZM 50mm f2 Planar complete like new in box $500

Voigtlander Black 28mm bright line view finder like new with pouch in box.

Perfect for 21mm on M8. $110

eBay feedback 349+ 100% positive: handcoater

email to: bwelch@hei.org

I will pay shipping to US and PayPal fees

I have seen several Olympus lenses that have the silver front rim and silver

rim on or near the focus ring. I have seen it on 24mm f:2, 28mm f:2 and 35mm

f:2 lenses. What was the purpose of this design change? Was it on all the

lenses of that focal length and f stop or only during a certain period of time? I

prefer the plain black rims and am interested in some of these lenses. Were

they made in all black also? I have been unable to find any information on

this. Anyone have any of the above lenses that do not have the silver rims?