linus_hultstrand
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Posts posted by linus_hultstrand
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I have just ordered my first bottle of HC-110 but haven´t started
using it yet. I thougt I´d get some advice first from you, the
experienced bunch :-)
Right now I am shooting mostly in my homebuilt studio. Portraits, and
full length.
I use two tungsten-ligths of 500w diffused through a thin cloth to
light the subject.
I use HP5+ rated 200 asa
I am reading at:
http://www.kodak.se/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.jh
tml
and realize there are a lot of differnt working solutions (A, B, C,
D, E, F).
The question: What working solution do you think should I use, and
most imortantly - Why?
If you have a suggestion of dev.time, I´d be grateful too.
Merry Christmas
/Linus Hultstrand
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Here is a test of films and developers that might interrest you.
http://www.chrisjohnsonphotographer.com/funfilm.shtml
http://www.chrisjohnsonphotographer.com/charts.shtml
Good Luck,
/Linus
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My one litre D-76 (stock) lasts to develop 12 rolls of 35mm film.
If I dilute it to 1:1, how many rolls does it last to develop?
12/litre? 6/litre? Or is it a one shot solution??
How many rolls does 1:3 last to develop?
/Linus
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What about low contrast situations like indoor/studio photo? Or very high contrast? Does it work well in all circumstances?
/Linus
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I have been reading about diXactol at www.barrythornton.com and seen
his galleries. When I read, it seem so... great. And I can´t help
thinking - WHAT IS THE CATCH? So, if anyone has tried any of his
products (especially diXactol) - are they as good as he says? And
when are they not?
Best photografic regards
/Linus Hultstrand
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I have now finished the tests about film speed for HP5+. My tests say that HP5+ should be rated at 200. My tests about development time are not finished. Up to now I only know that my development times has been way to loooooong. Right now, my developed pictures print well at grade 0 paper.
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I have recently started developing my own negatives and everything is
going fine. There is just one problem. There are spots from the water
rinse left on the negatives when they have dried. They negatives dry
hanging in my apartment.
I use only water when I rinse after the fixing - should I use some
wetting agent or something, and in that case what - any tips?
Can I wash the spotted negatives again and dry them again to get rid
of the spots?
/Linus Hultstrand
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Hi!
I am using a developer made in Sweden called SD-76. It is exacly the
same chemicals as Kodak´s D-76. But it is sold in one litre bottles
solution (not powder like the D-76). It is said that the solution is
good to develop 12 rolls of 35mm film, and that is nice. But here is
my question - With every film I develop, the solution ought to get
weaker every time (less active chemicals i.e.) and the next film
should require more development time? Or am I thinking wrong? However
nothing on the bottle says it does, so what am I supposed to do? And
if it requires more development time, how am I supposed to know how
much more?
Please help a newbie with your photographic wisdom :-)
/Linus Hultstrand
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Thank you all for your answers. I´m going in to the darkroom in a few weeks and finish my own tests. Your guidance has been helpful!
/Linus
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Hey you all!
I have recently been trying to determine the true film speed and
development time for my favourite film Ilford hp5+. I am not finished
with my tests yet, but it would be interresting to know what results
others who use that film have come to. I am aware of that it is a
personal thing too, since all light meters are slightly different,
but never the less, I am interrested in your reslults. Development
time is of course different since there are many developers, but I
hope you can answer in percent longer or shorter than recommended
(for the speed the manifacturer claims). So if the recommended time
is 9 minutes and you develop for 7½ minutes, your true dev. time is
-15%. I will be happy with answers like:
320 iso/asa
-20% dev time
Best Regards
/Linus Hultstrand
Rodinal with HP5+ and Tri X
in Black & White Practice
Posted