yat_tang

Have you looked at the Canon web site for Vista updates or vista compatible verions? That's what I would do.

This is a common issue that can be caused by dirty contacts between the lens and body. Use a pencil eraser to clean the contacts. It could a faulty lens also. Have you got another lens to try?

It is no where as bad as some people say it is. Like many things on the web, you got to take reviews with a pitch of salt. I find it perfectly good lens if you stop down to F8. Never have problem with auto focus. As it is a wide angle lens focus speed is not an issue. If you want a lens to shoot wide open and give very good qulaity, you will have to look else where and spend a lot more money.

You will get better results with a 2x converter/extender that fits between the lens and the body. The ones that fits on the filter thread of the lens are very poor quality.

While I do not know the answer to your question, you may find more useful replies if you ask at the dpreview.com forum.

Have anyone tried scanning panoramic with the Epson 4490 scanner? I

am using a Horizon 202 panoramic camera and would like to scan the

pictures. I am not sure the Epson 4490 can scan panoramic though.

Have anyone tried yet?

I think before you go and get a new lens, you should try a better lab for processing your prints. Or are you shooting slides? I don't think the 28-90 is that bad. It will not make much difference if you don't print above 8x10. If you are sure it is not camera shake or focus then try another lab. Have you also tried shooting at about f8 with 28-90? It can make a difference. Film can make a difference. A cheap Fuji Superia 100 is a good film you can try.

I use Kenko tubes with my 50mm/f1.8 with no issue. Whay all three tubes are used together, it will not AF. Manual focus of cause works, but the subject needs to be minimeters to the lens to focus.

I use extension tubes and found no resolution drop off with my lens. There is no quality change as there are no extra glass. Close up lens will degrade the image. I use my 50/1.8 with great results.

Paul,

 

I just think you have too many lenses to choose from. You should just use them one at a time and decide which ones you want to keep. Then sale the rest and don't buy any more.

 

I get by very well with two lenses, a wide angle zooms 19-35mm and a medium zoom 35-135mm on a film body. They are not L lenses but then I do not enlarge my pictures bove 12x10. I do wish I have a telezoom like 100-300mm sometimes. But this is less than 2% of my time and I can not justify the cost. This is not a problem you have though.

 

Don't buy anymore lens. Just shoot with what you have got.

Only E-TTL flash will work with digial EOS. Or you can use it in manual mode.

I have done it a number of times. The camera will stop once the film is rewinded. All you need is a film retriver. Sometimes it takes a few go to get the leader out. There is no need to shoot a blank pass the frame you were on. Just put your lens cap on, set speed to 1/2000s and smallest aperture and fire away until you reached the frame number you were on. The 300V uses infrared counter and is very accurate.

I used 1.5V alkaline battery with my QL19 with slide film. The exposure was very good. I found no problem at all. I think you should try it first before spending money on 1.35V mercury or adaptor.

I think what you need to do is to try to take the pictures just after dark before the sky is completely dark. At the moment there is too much contrast between the city light and the dark area. The film you are using just con't handle the contrast range. Using slide film will make it worse since it has a lower contrast range than negative film. You basically has a very short optimal lighting condition when you can take the picture. Try get there before sunset and wait for that idea light just after dusk, lights to come on before it is completely dark.

Maya,

 

The 10D is a digital SLR. The mirror blocks the sensor hence the only way to see what you are shooting is through the viewfinder. You will find all SLR cameras does this. There are many qualtiy digicams around if this is a feature you would like to have. Maybe you can exchange the 10D.

If you are going to scan the film, then I would use slide film. My home scanner works much better with slide. Its quicker, have better color and much less grain. If you don't scan it, then why not use negative film. I am sure the result can be just as good.

Make sure you are not using AV or TV modes. You need an external flah for AV or TV modes. Also the pop up flash can not be fired in some of the auto modes. Check with your manual to confirm.

I have a 500n. The camera is always on evaluative metering. Partial metering (the centre circle of view finder) is ony activated when you press the * button on the back. The only time it uses centre weighted metering is in manual mode.

 

Hope this helps

I think I will go for the 100-300mm USM which was my first choice anyway.

 

Thanks

I was going to get a 70-300mm USM or 100-300mm USM lens, but now I

notice there is a new 90-300mm USM lens too. The 100-300mm was my

first choice because it has rear focusing with full time manual

focus. Has anyone tried this 90-300mm lens yet ? It seems to be much

cheaper than the 100-300mm and only a little more than the 70-300mm.

Is this better than the 70-300 ? I like to know before I decided.

Thanks

I had this problem with my EOS500n. I spoke to a repair shop and was told it could be the a wire that goes to the mirror or the lens. I tried another lens and the blinking battery ison went away. Try another lens (a Canon one) if you got another. I am sure Jessops would let you try one of their lens. Else it may be that wire. I have heard of a lot of non Canon lens have compatibility issues with newer EOS bodies that cause this problem.

Please help. I can't find any data on what is the correct lens hood

for this lens.