louis_jensen1

I assume that your question means that you want to do long exposures in the day time. You need to use neutral density filters. They come in 1/3 stop increments, 1, 2, and 3 stops and perhaps longer.

The Nikkor 500T takes 14 inches of bellows at infinity. You can use the 500T and 360T.

The Fujinon 300T has a bellows extension of about 8 inches, when focused at infinity. I have not have problems with movement by the wind. Problems with movement caused by my actions are a different story. The 300T is a excellent lens.

There are several LF users in the Richland, WA area. However, I do not know of a formal group of LF users.

It is easy to build an extension tube. Buy a short piece of 3 in. ABS sewer pipe, some epoxy and a 4x4 in. piece of Masonite or aluminum sheet. Cut a 3 in. hole in a lens board, cut a squared length of the pipe, 1 in. or so in length. Cut a hole in the Masonite or aluminum for the lens. Using the epoxy, glue the pipe to the lens board and Masonite to the front of the pipe. Total cost (not counting labor), less than $30. I made one to use a Nikon 500T on my Toyo AX.

To keep the film back away from the tube, get some 4x5 inch pieces of fiberglass screen. Insert the film/screen sandwich into the tube. I use such a sandwich when developing 8x10 in film in print drums.

Individual holders in quart zip lock bags. Sets of three holders in a gallon plastic bag. Six sets of three in a small ice chest.

To lubricate parts of the camera use any fine oil. I use the oil that is used to lubricate the rotary valves on my French Horn.

To fold the Tachihara, first make sure the 4 knobs holding the front standard are loose. Pull the front containing the lensboard up and out of its slot. Then tilt it back and place it face down on the bottom of the camera. Then fold the back down as the bellows fold.

An alternative to the spacer is to bend over the corners of the two negatives that are together, about 1/16 inch (e.g. bend the upper left corner of the first and the upper right corner of the second). This prevents the negatives from sliding together.

The Unicolor 8x10 print drum will hold 4 4x5, 2 5x7, or 1 8x10 negative or paper.

For black and white film, the clouds will show up if you use a filter that absorbs blue. In this case use a yellow, dark yellow or red filter (in order of increasing contrast). For color film, you need to use a polarizing filter.

Ryan, you can slide 4x5 negatives in between the slots of the drum. An 8x10 drum can be used to develop 8x10 and 4x5 prints. Look inside the drum and you can see the slots for holding the different size prints or film.

You can develop 4 4x5 negatives in the Unicolor 8x10 print drum. To keep the negatives from "overlaping" bend over a corner of adjacent negatives, i.e. bend a triangle about 1/16 to 1/8 inch on a side.

You can cut some fiber glass screen the size of the negative. Place it behind the film and then insert the film/screen into the drum. It is thick enough to separate the film from the side of the drum.

Bend up the adjacent corners of two side-by-side sheets of film. That is, bend up a little triangle that is in the unexposed edges of the film. The two sheets will not slide together.

Will one of you tell me the filter size for the Nikon Coolpix 5700

lens and for the wide angle (WC-E80) and telephoto converter

(TC-E15ED)? Also, are these two converters worth using?

Soak your prints in a solution of borax and water. Put two table spoons of borax in two quarts of warm water.

Look at Equinox Photography (http://www.equinoxphotographic.com). They have them advertised.

I have a 4x5 Zone VI camera with a spring back. Is there any way to

change it into an international or Graflock back? I would like to use

the older Grafmatic film holders.

 

Thanks,

I have been doing this with Dektol and Selectol for years. I mix a gallon of concentrate developer and put enough for a mornings printing (about 350 ml of Dektol and 500 ml of Selectol) in empty 16 oz plastic pop containers. I remove the air from the containers and freeze them. When thawed, some crystals come out of solution. Heating the solution in the microwave oven for a few minutes puts everything back into solution. I have used containers of developer that have been frozen for many months. Sometimes there is an air leak and the developer will turn brown, but they are easy to spot.

 

I also keep my unmixed envelopes of developers (Dektol, Selectol, D76,...) along with film and paper in the freezer.

 

Freezing concentrated D76 should also work.

Have any of you had experience in re-using the older style two-sheet

versions of the Readyload film holders? I want to load them with

Technical Pan film.

 

Thanks, Louis Jensen

I have a Pentax 6x7 made in the 1980's. I lost the eye-piece frame

that screws in to the view finder of the TTL pentaprism. The ring has

a grove for the eye-cup. Do any of you know where I could find a

replacement?

 

Louis Jensen

 

jenluc@charter.net