erick_kyogoku

Thomas I can confirm that what Dan wrote above is absolutely true. I owned a 20D (after a

10D) and was really taken aback at first with the shutter noise. I got used to it, but if you're

trying to be clandestine the sound level can be obtrusive. The 5D has a whispery slink noise

compared to the 20D's clap. I think DP Review has their shutter noise back to back, though

it's hard to tell over these recordings.

Tuscany — I lived in Tuscany for almost a year and a half. You will want to have wide

options, while telephoto you'll use only rarely. What are you going to shoot in the ≥

200mm range? A 17-40 would serve much better ... and you'll never have a chance to use a

TC. What towns will you be visiting? Aside from primes, the two lenses that would serve best

are the 24-105L and 17-40 or 16-35. If you're going to capture Italian life and culture, not

its birds, bring wide lenses.

I have the EOS 55 (Japanese version of Elan IIe) and I think it was a great film camera. It has a

lot of features for a midrange camera and I found the controls intuitive and fast. The long-

range benefit to getting the EOS is that it means getting EOS lenses, and so if in the future

you go digital, you'll be in the Canon system. Canon is doing much better with D-SLR

technology and sensors, and there's some gnashing of the teeth in the Nikon camp about

lack of full frame sensors, high noise at ISO, etc.

For <i>travel</i> the 24-105L is perhaps the most useful lens, I wouldn't leave home

without it.

Hi Everyone,<br>

I think which tripod and head you use really depends on the type of shooting you do: there

are all sorts of variables: aside from sturdiness, the tripod's height (with and without

center column extended), your height, its collapsed length, weight, and build. I still

haven't found the right tripod head for myself. Before it was stolen I really liked my

Manfrotto compact geared head, for precise adjustments of the horizon etc. Don't laugh

but I have a Manfrotto 486RC2 compact ball head. It works well with a <a href="http://

www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=263729&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigati

on">hotshoe level</a> ... for my purposes. (Slow landscape) The best tripod head that

I've had the experience of using was probably an Arca-Swiss ballhead, but I think my next

head might be the Acratech that Iori has because it's lighter. If there's a <i>leitmotif</i>

in my posts, it's that I always try to find products that cut back on weight. By the way Iori,

which model Arcatech do you have, and what are your impressions? I'm in the market for

one.<br>

I don't have much expertise when it comes to tripods and tripod heads. Aside from doing

the research to find something that fits me, I can't really say what's best and for whom so I

defer to the more knowledgable users here. What type of shooting will you use your

tripod for Scott?

Steve did you not read my post before typing? <i>Everything</i> of consequence that he

claims above is untrue. It is better to not post than write falsely about what you don't

know. Take into account the fact that Manchester is in England ... and prices in Britain are

inflated vis-a-vis the rest of the world. As for the claim that yen prices are 40% higher in

Japan than in America, this too is false -- as I've cited above. Why do you knowingly and

deliberately write what is untrue? The B&H price is <a href="http://

www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=234444&is=USA&addedTroughType=search">

$1699</a> before rebate. For it to be 40% more the Japanese price would have to be

$2378.60. I've already posted the Japanese price of <a href="http://www.kakaku.com/

prdsearch/detail.asp?PrdKey=10501010046

"> 197994 yen</a>. That equals $1720 US -- a whopping 1% difference in price. I am

<i>certain</i> that you will get an international warranty on a lens purchased in Japan,

I've bought six Canon lenses in Japan and all of them came with international warranties.

Finally, <i>all</i> Canon photo equipment that you buy in Japan will come with at least

Japanese and English instruction manuals (bodies, flash, accessories), and for lenses there

will be a multilingual guidebook in Japanese, English, French, German, Spanish, Italian,

Chinese, and Korean. I've purchased all of the above in Japan and I speak from

experience. Sometimes prices are better in America, but very often they're not. I bought

my 24-105L at B&H for $1250 when it was selling for $950 new in Japan, and it was

available in Japan a few months before arriving here. There are benefits to buying stuff in

Japan if you already have plans to visit. For one thing it's convenient, you can expect

anything to be in stock. For example, at the moment the <a href="http://www.i-love-

epson.co.jp/products/colorio/photoviewer_digitalcamera/p4500/index.htm">Epson

P-4500</a> storage device is already in stores in Japan, while the release date hasn't

been announced here (US). Anyhow, for a person coming from Britain the price savings

should be substantial. (A person living in England can't get the B&H price without extra

costs: shipping and customs duties foremost, so that isn't very helpful for him, is it?)

Hi Newby,

I recommend Manfrotto's MagFiber tripods. They're light and sturdy, and sensibly priced.

Gitzos may be better, but they can be expensive and may or may not be worth paying that

much more. Since I only use 35mm SLRs (I too have a 5D), I bought the <a href="http://

www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=353683&is=REG&addedTroughType=search">

Manfrotto 190MF4 Magfiber</a> Carbon Fiber 4-Section Tripod and I <i>love</i> it. I

chose the 4-section tripod because it's easy to travel with. I used to use a Manfrotto

aluminum tripod but it was heavy and not nearly as stable as the Carbon Fiber. Going

aluminum → MagFiber made life much easier. If you don't need it to collapse so short,

a 3-section tripod is more convenient.<br>

In my opinion, tripods and tripod heads are subject to the tastes/likes of the user. Some

people like ball heads, others gear heads, pan/tilt, etc. Stop by a good local camera shop

and see what feels good in your hand. Sturdy is good, but if you're not using medium/

large format gear, there's no need for overkill. After much searching I found the Manfrotto

190MF ideal for my needs. It's a good place to start looking. What type of photos /

settings will you be using it for? Hope that helps.

Hi Dave,<br>

You will have no problems with warranties: any Canon product bought in Japan will have a

Canon international warranty, entitling you to service anywhere in the world. I've bought

most of my lenses and accessories in Japan and made sure of this beforehand. (Canon

told me that buying in Japan is the best because all Canon Japan photo products have an

international warranty)<br>

The lens you want is selling for <a href="http://www.kakaku.com/prdsearch/detail.asp?

PrdKey=10501010046">197,994 ¥en</a> in Japan. That's 965 £ -- is it

cheaper than in <a href="http://www.x-rates.com/d/JPY/GBP/

graph120.html">England</a> ? In Japan you can usually get "point cards" that give you a

3-5% credit for purchases at the same shop. I recommend using Yodobashi in Shinjuku

(Tokyo), it makes B&H look like a corner store by comparison. If you're in Osaka, go to the

Yodobashi Osaka - Umeda. The price however is roughly the same as what B&H offers.

I think Kirk is right about this. Most of my Canon equipment was bought in Photography

Mecca: Tokyo. Before purchasing I double-checked with Canon and they assured me that

anything I bought in Japan would have an international warranty and that if anything

happened in America or elsewhere, I would be covered regardless. The only time I ever

needed to send something in for Canon warranty service was for a 10D with Err99 shutter

problems. I bought it in America but I was living in Italy. I called up Canon Italia and they

said non c'è problema: send it to your nearest Italian service center with a copy of the

warranty and purchase receipt, and it's the same as if you bought it here in Italy. About

10 days after sending it to Canon Italia it was back in my hands, all fixed, and they even

paid for shipping in both directions. Canon seems to be liberal about honoring its

warranties, and I admire the confidence that shows. (Only Canon purchase I regret is not

buying their stock! It's up 25% since the beginning of this year)

Definitely follow Buck's advice and type psmar into the search field, then find the 30D and

add to cart. You should be able to get it for $1349 instead of $1399. I used psmar to get

$100 off on my 5D. Easy savings!

Kin, just out of curiosity may I ask why you saved your 300 and 350D bodies? I went from

10D --> 20D --> 5D and in each transition sold my old bodies to friends, for a nice

discount too ... it's a lot of fun because these friends (in Italy and Australia) take photos with

my old bodies/lenses and show me what they're up to. In my view, old D-SLR bodies are like

old computers. Once you upgrade, there's really no use in keeping the old models. Sure, I

can understand if there's some sentimental value to them (I still keep my film body), but

those older D-SLRs can be sold in exchange for new lenses or to cover a good portion of your

replacement D-SLR's expense. I've never felt the need to carry a back-up either. Just

wondering...

Mike, you have a great setup, and on a 5D or other full frame body, the 24-105L gives such a

useful range. I think it's the perfect walk-around lens. I have a 5D, 17-40L, 24-105L, 28,

50, and 85 primes ... the 24-105L is the lens that's fitted to the 5D most of the time. The

fact that it goes down to 24 rather than 28 is a plus, and I think 24-28mm is a useful range

for landscape.

Although I agree that good lenses are important, I would go nuts using the original D

Rebel. I've used friends' DRebels and found the controls to impede my photography. I'd

go with a used 20D or 30D if you can. Sell the DRebel, and wait patiently for a wider lens.

If you already have the 70-200 and 50 prime, consider a 17-40L. The 24-70 that you're

considering is $1100 and on a 1.6 crop, be it a 30D or a DRebel, isn't going to be very

wide at all: that's 38.4mm in 35mm format. If you get a 17-40L ($500-600 new) you can

get the equivalent of 27.2mm, which is a fairly wide POV. Go to your local shop and try

out a D30 with the 24-70 and 17-40 side-by-side. (Or if you liked the range of the

17-35 that you just rented, it's roughly the same) Good luck Bryce, you have plenty of

time to get all the gear you need, but I'd start with upgrading the thing that vexes you

most, in this case the body.

Buy a Nikon! Now that is funny!<br>

<br>

Tyler I've smudged my sensor quite badly before, so I ordered <a href="http://

www.visibledust.com/sensor_cleaning_products.html">Visible Dust's</a> sensor clean and

swabs to clear up the muck. Their products work as advertised, and my sensor was as good

as new. Their cleaning solutions may be a little bit on the pricey side, but they're well worth

it. When you have the right tools, sensor cleaning is easy.

Sorry for suggesting something out of your range. There is a much cheaper alternative in

the regular RS-80N3 remote. I've never used it before but it's a simple slide-lock corded

switch without the timer, multi-frames, etc. It's $50 <a href="http://

www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

O=cart&A=details&Q=&sku=164276&is=REG&addedTroughValue=423778_REG&addedTr

oughType=accessory_detail">new</a>, perhaps you can get closer to $20 used off of

eBay?

<br>

<br>

I think you can also use an infrared wireless remote: set the camera to bulb mode then

press the wireless remote once to open, and again to close. However, I think it only works

with the Rebel and not with the 10/20/30D. Sorry I don't have a Rebel so please wait for

confirmation from a Rebel owner. Hope that helps.

Hi Eoghan. I'm not familiar with your complete list of shutter remotes, but I have the

TC-80N3. It's an expensive remote that I bought after reading this <a href="http://

www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/tc-80n3.shtml">review</a> by Michael

Reichmann. I bought it hoping to use it for <a href="http://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~hiro/

polynesie/pages/fak-trails_9149.htm">star trail</a> photography too, but found it had

many other creative uses. This photo was taken using the TC-80N3, a 649 second

exposure, 28mm/1.8 lens, set wide open at 1.8. The nice thing about the remote is that

you can program it and walk away. It'll close the shutter when you want. Well, just read

the article for a better explanation of all that it does. It's $133 at B&H, not cheap but I

think quite a bit less than I paid a few years ago. In my opinion definitely worth it. Be

careful about one thing: it's compatible with the 1D/5D/20D/30Ds but I'm not sure about

the D-Rebels. Which are you using? 30D or Rebel?

Wow, Dan, that's impressive. Did you pre-register online?

On my rebate form it says:

"Speed up the process! Go online to www.web-rebates.com/canon and pre-qualify your

rebate submission prior to mailing your claim form."

Alistair's hint is very useful because setting the custom function will use the AF assist light

housed with the pop-up flash to help you get a precise focus, but won't shoot off the

unwanted flash when taking the picture. In low-light it's often hard to get the focus right,

especially through a smaller/darker Rebel viewfinder. When I had a 20D I used to pop up the

flash, set the auto-focus, then set the lens to MF, push the flash down, then recompose the

frame and shoot. I wish I'd know about the custom function earlier.

<i>Corner sharpness with the Canon 28mm f/1.8 is excellent once the lens is stopped

down. At f/1.8 the corners are very soft. But for most applications it's irrelevant how sharp

the corners are since most subject matter will be out of focus due to shallow depth of

field. </i><br>

<br>

<i>Very</i> good point Peter. Here's a shot taken with the 28/1.8, in <a href="http://

www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~eridium/delete/sirac-orecchio-dionisio-3322.jpg">Siracusa,

Sicily</a>. 1/60 sec, f/2.5 Such a good lens for taking photographs (rather than pixel

peeping).

Bob Atkins wrote a good overview of diffraction and optimum aperture <a href="http://

bobatkins.com/photography/technical/diffraction.html">here</a>.

> The RC4 head is not removable from the geared head, so I use a RC4 plate-to-3299 QR

adapter for mounting small cameras <

James, may I ask if you have a link or model number for this adapter? I used to have the

same Bogen compact geared head. After it was stolen I decided not to replace it because I

hated the big RC4 plate on a small SLR. It was too big/uncomfortable. But if there's a way to

use an RC2 plate with the compact geared head I might get a replacement. Thanks.

Robert makes a good point about blades. The 28/1.8 has 7 blades and nice bokeh.

Here's a <a href="http://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~eridium/greece/pages/sant-oia-

dawn_2659.htm">sample</a> photo, taken with the 28/1.8 stopped down to f/8.0, using

a Leica tabletop tripod -- notice the street lamp at the center/bottom. Because of the odd

number of blades it gives a nice starburst effect (7 x 2 rays). I took this <a href="http://

www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~eridium/greece/pages/sant-dawn-2667.htm">shot</a>

moments later with the lens set to f/4.5.

Hi Dillan. I should really make a web page with all my nice photos from the 28/1.8 as this

question comes up often. Look through this <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-

a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00G4RT&tag=">thread</a> from yesterday (page down for a few

samples that I linked). I bought this lens for use with my EOS 55 (the predecessor to your

Elan 7) and then used it on a 10/20D. It was one of my favorite lenses on the 1.6 crop, and

I'm sure I'll give it a good run on my full frame digital now. It handles well and is light,

precise, and makes good pictures. Hope the link helps.

Hi Ignacio, I have the 28/1.8, 50/1.4, and 17-40L. I just <i>love</i> the 28/1.8 on a 1.6

crop. Perhaps it isn't the best at taking photos of brick walls, but it's great for practicing

photography. Using the 28/1.8 I took this photo in <a href="http://

www.csua.berkeley.edu/~erickyo/delete/fr-eiffel-brouillard-9162.jpg">Paris</a>,

another in <a href="http://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~eridium/greece/pages/hania-

cafe_3099.htm">Greece</a>, star trails in <a href="http://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~hiro/

polynesie/pages/fak-trails_9149.htm">French Polynesia</a>, you name it. And all but

the Paris photo were taken wide open. The 1.6 crop has the advantage of chopping off the

softest edges, but I wouldn't have minded them either. On my 10D/20D the 28/1.8 was

definitely my most useful prime, and with it made perhaps my best images. f/2.8 just isn't

fast enough for my low-light needs. A nice benefit is that the 28/1.8 shares the same

58mm filters with my 50/1.4 and 85/1.8. Yet the 28/1.8 won't deliver the really wide

perspective that the <a href="http://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~hiro/polynesie/pages/

maupiti_6188b1u.htm">17-40</a> did in this shot. I know it's expensive but the 28/1.8

+ 50/1.4 + 17-40L complement each other well, the 17-40L for bright settings, the

primes for low-light and shallow depth of field. But as for the 28/1.8, the proof is in the

pictures. It's a light, capable, fantastic lens.