hal_haygood

Unfortunately, there is no way to attach a cable release to a D. (At least not on mine.) I've found that with a tripod, it's possible to release the shutter with minimal movement by steadying the body with the left hand while pushing the shutter release with the right index finger.

I recently purchased (very inexpensively) a "J.C. Penney" 35-105 f/3.5 zoom lens. It appears, to my inexperienced eye, to be made by either Tokina or one of the Vivitar sources. It's a constant-aperture, two-touch zoom with a built-in variable extension tube, and takes 72mm filters.

 

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Unfortunately, it seems that it does not focus all the way to infinity. The split-image focusing aid will not converge completely for subjects beyond ~30 feet. The difference is slight, and is almost always covered by DOF, but it bugs me when I'm composing/focusing. It occurs even when the extension tube is completely retracted and locked.

 

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I'm guessing that manufacturing slop is the culprit, either in the variable extension tube or in the mount (Minolta MC, which was obviously added on, because JCP sold lenses in many different mounts).

 

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Any ideas on bringing infinity back in reach?

I understand that it stands for Pyro-Metol-Kodalk. I understand that it supposedly gives most excellent results. What I don't understand is exactly what the process does.

 

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From what I've read, it seems to be a develop-bleach-stain development method. Is that correct? Why (for example) would you choose to use this over a standard development method?

 

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Furthermore, which chemical does the development, the bleaching, and the staining?

After I took my Canadian No. 2 out for some testing this past weekend, I was disappointed to see that I had suffered some fogging through the frame-number window. I use Ilford FP4+; the paper backing is white on the non-film side and black on the film side. I had attempted to keep the window covered (black electrical tape) when not winding, but even the short time that I was winding the film, I had scalloped light streaks from the window.

 

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It seems to me that using ortho film would solve this problem, with little noticeable loss in picture quality. Kodak doesn't seem to make any ortho films in 120 anymore, unfortunately. Does anyone know of a brand and type that I could use? Alternately, is there a way to count turns so that I don't need to open the window cover at all?

 

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TIA.