henry_friedman

I'll second the recommendation for Xtol. It offers an excellent combination of sharpness, fine grain and film speed. And its keeping qualities are better than d-76 or Ilfosol-s (which is dreadful). Divide the stock solution into full-to-the-brim 1 liter containers and it will still be going strong beyond 6 months.

I'd go for Xtol. You'll get excellent sharpness, negligible grain and full film speed. It lasts a long time, too, if you split it into individual 1 liter cohntainers to keep the air out. And don't worry about expansion and contraction; TMax is ultra-responsive to changes in time and temperature. In fact, too much so if you're not a careful worker.

 

Finally, don't let yourself be limited by what the local shop is carrying; they're all catering to the digital stampede. Go online to order your supplies - B&H, Calumet, Freestyle will be happy to send you what you need in a hurry.

You've done (and re-done) the test. Now, take it in the field and shoot at 160. Look for sufficient shadow detail; if it's there, you're off and running.

If you are using the lens to photograph the landscape, you will probably be carrying it some distance at some point. Do not discount the size and weight of the lens itself and its filters. My vote is for the Nikkor 90/f8. Very sharp, great coverage and relatively small size.

Divide your Xtol stock solution into (5) 1 liter bottles, filled to the brim. It will keep for a least six months with no problem.

I made myself a little table based on variations of Ansel Adams' and Fred Picker's zone system recording sheets. Four tables fit on one 8 1/2 X 11 inch sheet, which is then cut. It is a Microsoft Publisher file. If you email me off forum I can send you the file.

Project them? I'll bet the sheet of film costs more than the piece of glass that is used for the lens of a $300.00 projector. I can't imagine that projection will do justice to the detail and tonality in that negative.

I'd say you'd better be able to get pretty close to those glaciers, otherwise that 55mm will make them look like ice cubes.

I avoid any Xtol that is clumped in the package. Many say that they need distilled water; mine is fine out of the tap. Divide the mixed stock solution and store in smaller bottles with no air. Follow Kodak's very conservative recommendations for minimum stock per roll or sheet. I use the temperature conversion chart in the back of Anchell's Film Development Cookbook and get good results.

 

I've used stock solution that was stored up to six months (remember, no air on top) diluted 1:3; zero failures.

Longer developement = more contrast.

Study the lives and work of Harry Callahan, Imogen Cunningham and Josef Sudek, among others. Each created a body of work that anyone would be proud of, each given circumstances that kept them close to home.

 

"Be content with what you have; rejoice in the way things are. When you realize there is nothing lacking, the whole world belongs to you." - Lao-tzu

Prints hung from 'T' mounts seem to buckle less than those that are corner mounted only. It keeps the weight from sagging down onto the bottom corners.

According to Tim Rudman's book, "The Photographer's Master Printing Course":

1 part Sodium thiosulphate 10% + 1 part Potassium ferricyanide 1% +

2 parts water

 

Keep an unbleached print handy for comparison, and do less than you think you need, initially. It's easy to go too far. The book, by the way is a must-have.

A couple of months ago, I was contacted privately with a request for

the instructions for a TRC-60DCI, which I had received from a fellow

photonet user. Well, I finally stumbled across the files on my hard

drive, but no longer have the individual's name or email address.

 

If you are still in need of those instructions, please contact me

directly.

Try "The Massive Developement Chart" at www.digitaltruth.com. It might help with both parts of your question. Essentially, you exposed the film for iso 200 or so.

Read "Art and Fear", by Bayles & Orland. And keep working.

Did you ever notice how the "anticipated wonderfulness of a particular roll (or sheet) of film" is always directly related to the magnitude of the screw-up?

Bruce's lawn is awfully green. Of course, they get something like 100 inches of rain a year in Granite Falls...

Why switch from a developer you like, for the convenience of the local shop? Ask your local supplier to stock a small amount of XTOL 5 liter. If they won't, buy mail order, and have it delivered to your door - no more hassles. I store mine in four one liter bottles plus an air-evac container, so they are all always filled to the rim. XTOL stored in this manner has a long shelf life.

Here in the mid-Atlantic states, my 4X5 and I are generally treated kindly and with curiosity. The inevitable question: "Is that a Hasselblad?".

Do the testing before developing the irreplacable negative, or use your standard developer and time.

Bob, I think Kevin was joking.

Just as shutters need exercise, so do our visual perceptual and

camera handling abilities. This thread should be a reminder to

exercise all of them regularly, for optimal results.

Kodak continued making Opaque Black after the red variety was

discontinued. I believe it was listed as a graphic arts product, and

may still be available. I got mine about a year ago and figure the

one little bottle should last my lifetime.

How about carrying the film on one's person; for those not requiring

very large quantities?