eli_zwillinger

But, for completenesses sake, if you arent interested in buying DX backings, you can use aluminum foil and electrical tape. Additionally, you can set +/- 2EV in .5 EV values using the button to the right of the LCD, but thats only if you're not in M mode

Lee, from what I've read, most people would say that the MD Rokkor-X models were superior to the plain jane Rokkors. The only Rokkor I've used, however was for a test roll to make sure that the XG-A that was given to me had a moderately accurate meter (I found it underexposed about a half stop). I do have a 28mm rokkor in the mail for my upcoming vacation that Im fairly excited about, so I'll have firsthand experience with rokkor lenses in the future...

 

ok Eli, enough blabbing. Lisa, you could also try e-*ay, theres about 150 lots ending any given day. A good percentage of those are the Maxxum AF mount, but there are more than enough 3rd-party zooms that you should have no problem finding one if you wanted.

The D-60 has been EOLed. If you can, I would really suggest waiting untill March for all the new product announcements. Price drops on existing models should follow.

following the offtopic fork, you can pick up 1.35v Wein cells at B&H as well as battery emporium type places. No adjustment needed

Upgrading your equipment depends on what you want to do. If you like and use your Ricoh system, then keep it. If not, why bother storing it?

 

candids, in my experience, are usually available light - for that you'd need either 800/1600 speed film, or a lens much faster than your 3.5-4.5 zoom. Hell, both cant hurt. Landscapes are probably going to benefit from a wider lens than a 35mm. There are currently 2 24mm 2.8D nikkors in the classifieds forum, one for $198 and the other for a little more (hows that for memory? :-) ) you might want to consider buying one.

 

Do you want to scan your negs or slides? If so buy a scanner. Do you want to project your slides? If so, buy a projector. Dont get caught up in the "equipment geek" craze - If you buy stuff for the sake of buying stuff, you're losing sight of what you IMO should want to do - create photos

not for $750 it isnt ;-)

WRT digital sharpness and resultant quality:

<br>

Yes, I know that you are talking about the D1, but if you'll indulge me and head over to <a href = "http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/1ds/1ds-field.shtml"> Luminous Landscape </a>, there is a review of the Canon 1Ds.

<p>

The digital file from the 1Ds is compared to Imacon Flextight 3200 PPI scans of Provia 100F in both 35mm and MF.

</p>

The proof is in the [insert p word here], as they say. Don't get me wrong, however - I'm a computer/tech geek first, and an amateur photog second; I'm fairly excited to see how these digital bodies will perform, but I refuse to be convinced untill I see the prints for myself

I contributed an answer earlier, but it seems to have disappeared... odd.

 

B&H lists an MF 2.0, not a 2.3. Additionally, I wouldnt knock Tamron or Tokina over Sigma - lens quality is a crapshoot with all three manufacturers. Look for some reviews of each of their products before dismissing them. Would a 24mm vignette if a 77-52 step-down ring was used?

 

Additionally, if you can live without the extra 8 or 9 degrees of view, B&H has a 28/1.8 for sale, only $1400 ;)

If you don't need interchangeable lenses, you could try a Canon G3 QL17

Nikkor MF 24/2.3? B&H reports an AIS 2.0, but I see no 2.3... Nikon's got a 28mm F/1.4 if you can live without the extra 8 or 9 degrees of view, but its also insanely expensive ($1400 vs $550)

 

I wouldn't knock Tamron or Tokina any more than Sigma, it's a crapshoot with all three manufacturers - some of the lenses are good, some of the lenses are not. Look for reviews of all three manuf's lenses, maybe check out your local pro shop to see what they recommend.

 

WRT filter size, would a 24mm vignette with a 77-52 step down adapter? (I dont have much experience shooting wider than 35, and on mine I dont need to step down)

One could solve the moisture problem with a couple packets of silica gel tossed on the bottom of the innards

I can't think of an easy way, but you could always make an ellipsoidal selection, and then invert it and delete the new selection.

 

Oh, right. Thats assuming each photo is in its own canvas - otherwise, inverting your selection will screw everything up

I've only gotten one Nikon lens new in the box, but it didnt really come with a "manual" - i got a piece of paper that basically just listed the diagrams and specifications.

<p>

If by "twisting the lens" you mean he changed the aperture setting, just set it to it's minimum opening (be careful, its actually the <b>largest </b>number, probably 22)and look for a little thumbswitch to lock it in place. It should be the ring closest to the rear of the lens, having a line of numbers alternating between multiples of 1.4 and 2 (1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, etc.)

</p>

If however, you meant he just changed the focal distance, um... yeah. Thats what it's supposed to do.

The QL-17 most definitely does NOT meter. Theres no real reason, IMHO, to switch to a new film before a trip when you know that you want/need to come away with lots of good pics - youre just going to set yourself up for a fall if you switch now.

 

Also, wouldnt a red filter affect the color tone of the ruins themselves? The mental image ive got is that of orangish brown bricks, and i cant imagine a red filter not affecting that. I do, however, know absolutely nothing about filters, so feel free to disregard that one.

 

good luck though, I always had such a hard time getting the parrallax thingymahoojigger to match up for focussing. Now that Im on an N60 its easier, but ive got half a roll left on my QL-17 that i need to finish. grrr.