leicamshooter

Does anyone know of an alternative hood-cap I can use for the

current collapsible F2.8/50mm. I use this hood on my tabbed late

model 50mm summicron, but have no hood cap for it. The leica hood-

cap is about the same price of the hood, so I thought someone out

there might have another solution, or will I have to just accept it

and pay the $$$ for the appropriate hood? Will any 42mm push-on

hood work? Thank you all for your help. Have a good day.

If the findere in my M3 camera should decement or get damage beyond

repair, is it possible to have it replaced with a .72 or .85 finder

by someone like Sherry, DAG, or Leica? I know that the .91 isn't

avaliable anymore, and that the technician would have to use a .91

finder from another M3 camera. Has anyone had their M3 finder

replaced with a .72, .85, and if so by who? Would the proceadure be

so expensive that I should rather pick up another M camera?

 

Thank you all for your replies... Happy Holidays!

G Medina

Thank you for the review Mr. Bolduc. My hesitation with the CM was that the auto-focusing/winding would be obtrusive and loud, but if you feel that it is relatively quiet, then this camera very much appeals to me. I have an M3 with a 50 summicron. It's all the camera gear I have. It's easy to travel like this. I think the CM would be perfect for those times when even my small outfit is too much.

 

BH photo is listing the camera already --but doesn't have it in stock yet-- and it comes with a 4 year warranty! To me 4 years is a nice and secure thing when spending $1K on any camera! The Minilux only came with a 1 year warranty if I'm correct? The manufacture no doubt feels much more secure about the realiability of the CM than previous models.

Would you tell me what the noise level is like? Is the focusing noise level common with other point and shoots, or maybe the G2. What about the auto wind up? Thanks... I'm looking forward to picking up one of these little guys to supplement my M3.

How about the Domke F-5xb. 10.5 x 4.5 x 6.5. Great for one lens/camera combo and plenty of room for film and what not. I have the tan one and it has worked pretty nice for me in my travels. Good luck!

Walking down the Seine I had a jam problem with my M3. It is a scarry moment when it occurs. I didn't force the lever or anything else, but sat down, thought about what best to do, and then began to rewind the film. When I took the film out I realized that I was shooting a 24 Expousure roll as opposed to the 36 expousure rolls that I normally use. I felt very silly, but lucky nevertheless because it was just me and not the camera. I'm sure this isn't the problem with your cameras, but I'm sure the Leica tech will fix them up quickly for you. Best of luck, and post some of your photos for us when you get a chance.

For whatever it's worth... I remember reading somewhere that the only time a Multi-coated filter DOES differ from a regular single coated filter is at night. I had the same ring effect happen with an old canon LTM 50/1.4 lens while in Paris at night on one of the bridges. I was using a single coated filter. Now I have a tabbed 50 summicron and a B+W MRC skylight filter and haven't experience the effect yet.

Thanks for posting your site for us. Someone mentioned good expousure in your photos, and I must agree, you've done a very nice job here. I respect that you're using the one lens and one camera approach for now. I always enjoy one lens/one camera presentations.

 

I'm taking a drive down from Alaska to Los Angles in a week. I've never used Velvia. I shoot everything in black & white, but am considering using velvia for the trip. How do you go about metering for Velvia. Perhaps this is too simple a question, but do you measure your palm for an incident reading, or do you take a reflective reading directly from the scene? Perhpas you use a hand held meter? Black & white has a large expousure latitude, but I understand Velvia doesn't. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and good luck with your site. I look forward to more of your posts.

Is there film in the M2? If There is, I suggest you rewind the film and then try the shutter. Good luck.

I've had the F5xb now for about a year. I purchased the tan one, and have put it through the washer a few times. The bag is great and very well made. I've gone to Mexico with it, Paris, etc. I carry my M3 camera, as well as my fiancee's G2 camera. Things begin to get a bit cramp inside after this. My fiancess just recently decided she wants to carry three lenses with her G2, so now the bag is not large enough for me. I would just get her another F5xb, but on our trip to Paris someone tried to take the bag from her getting off the Metro. I was able to get it back luckily with not too much trouble. It was my fault for letting her carry it I suppose. So we decided it's proabably better if we I get a Domke 803, or M Classic bag or something like that to fit all out stuff in, and she can just carry the G2 with the Lutz sling, or neckstrap like she likes to.

 

One thing I don't like about the f5xb is the zipper. It seems to rub against the camera everytime I pull it out in a hurry. Not a big deal I suppose, bus still. I think the J5 bag is a better buy, but I don't think I like the White House emblem attracting attention.

Camera shake can occur using a soft release or not using one.

The photographer has to be aware of of how MUCH preasure is

being placed upon the shutter release... but I must agree that if

one is aware, and careful, one can get about a full stop more

using a softrelease. Make sure you press softly...

Try this first:

http://nemeng.com/leica/024b.shtml

 

Then you can take a look at the DIY adjustment if the above

doesn't check out:

http://nemeng.com/leica/034b.shtml

 

I just performed a horizontal rangefinder adjustment on my M3

camera and it took me five seconds. I asked my local camera

guy about it and he said it would be a $45 service with a 7-day

wait, but then again I live in Alaska. Best of luck. I'm sure other

members will give you good info on where you can take your

camera in Seattle. The smart-mouth members will tell you not to

worry about the alignment, and instead take your Leica and

some Tri-X to the Pike market!

Thank you for the responses. I had a hard time finding these

simple tool options here in Alaska. So what I did was get a

"Allied Pro" 1/8 x 3" slotted screwdriver. The handle is rubber so

it's very easy to hold. Gently I used it to turn the screw counter

clockwise. I reassured the roller by placing a finger against it so

not too much uneven pressure was being placed upon it. It was

a slight nudge and gently done. I tested it against the very bright

moon and planet last night and it worked! Took a few seconds

at the most. The most difficult thing was finding the right tool.

 

Here is a site that I found helpful:

 

<www.mediajoy.com/en/lrc/rM3/r_adjust3.html>

 

If anyone is performing this simple operation and has questions

please e-mail me.

Marcus. I've just listed my Nikkor S.C 1.4 on e-bay. I have some

useful internet sources about the Nikkor on the actual page if

your interested. Good luck.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=29269868

56&category=30063&rd=1

The horizontal infinity needs to be slightly adjusted on my M3. I

measured it against a very bright star/planet and found this to be

the case. The angle of attack makes it difficult to use a straight

flathead driver. Short of purchasing a special Leica tool ($) for

the job, what various options do I have, and which one is more

effective? Thank you in advance for your responses.

I regularly kill time at the major book stores in town and pour

over any photography related magazine. So I was exited when I

found two copies of Leica Fotografie on the shelves. This isn't

the first time I've read the magazine, but I'm never overly impress

with the content matter inside. I work as a graduate student

editor for one of the best literary journals in the country, so I know

the difference between Esquire and The Iowa Review for

example. Leica Fotografie needs to either be like all the other

glossy photography magazines, or hone in on their vision in the

same way that literary journals all have a narrow vision and strive

for ultimate quality. As we already know, Leica Fotografie

doesn't have the option to be like all the rest. The articles in the

Leica journal seem more fluff than anything else. As I said

before, the magazine needs a focused vision. At times the

magazine is pure Leica propaganda and at others it's weak

articles on how to BUY a second hand Leica lenses. Don't get

me wrong, I love everything Leica, and do not complain about

Leica prices. I feel if people have the money, and they want

something Leica, then spend the money, with the knowledge

that overpriced or not, they are getting one of the best products

on the market. The magazine is not one of the best products on

the market, nor does it live up to the "Leica standard."

 

I'm still very young, and perhaps the magazine was much better

in the past (as I'm told all things were), but needless to say, I left

the magazine on shelve.

Very nice... so dynamic and well balanced. The men in the

background give the shot the added depth and juxtaposition.

Eight months ago I was looking to buy a rangefinder. My fiancee

and I went to a lot of camera stores in the L.A. area. In one we

were able to compare both an M6ttl and a Bessa R2. I fiddled

with them while my fiancee looked very bored. I made chit chat

with the sales rep about the lack of a self-timer on the cameras.

When my fiancee got a hold of the cameras she immediatley

gravitated to the M6. "Oooh, I like this," she said.

 

I didn't purchase either camera. But a few months later I

purchased a G2, and my fiancee fell in love with the autofocus,

automatic shutter, rapid-rewind, fast and easy film loading, and

titanium feel... just about everything I grew to dislike about the

G2.

 

In December we took a trip to Paris, she with her G2, and me

with my Leica M3.

On the actual fine print, where it matters, I imagine a lot of the

tree is in zone 2, maybe low zone 3. Whether the tree is too dark

depends on what you envisioned when you took the photograph.

Your question is subjective because you are at the stage of

finalizing your print. It is at this stage where YOU have to make

personal creative decisions. No doubt someone will tell you it is

too dark, or too light. Attempting to bring out shadow detail in the

tree by extended developing will only increase the contrast of the

negative as a whole. Dodging the tree is another option, but

even here you can only "bring to the surface" what was captured

on film. The best of luck with your photography.

How about the Domke F-5XB. You can fit a Leica with lens, + two

other lenses, film etc. It's a small bag... but I don't know about

the books?

Wow! Thank you very much for the photos link. You have been

extremely helpful. I very much appreciate it. I'll have to keep my

eyes open for other options This forum is such a great source

for photographers.

I know this hood is a 42mm clamp-on type hood. Does anyone

know how it comapares to the 35mm Summicron rectangular

plastic hood in terms of size (if you can measure them even

better). Is the summicron hood more compact, or are they the

same. The Skopar hood is metal and can also be use on the

35mm skopar lens as well as on the 50mm 2.5 lens.

 

I was hoping to use the Skopar hood on a tabbed 50mm

Summicron. I think I rectangular hood might offer more

protection against flare versus a circular hood

 

Thank you for your help in advance. It's hard to get a look at

these hoods in Alaska, so I'm hoping some of you may be using

them.<div></div>

Sounds great! Please send it to <asgm3@yahoo.com>

 

Always lookng for articles on Mr. Bresson. Thanks again.

Yep, my M3 does it as well, now go out and get some great

shots.

In the morning<div></div>