robert_eastman

I am pretty confident in my ability and so when shooting type 55 on location I dont process. I wait til I am home and then I process it. I am sure there is a website than can explain how to remove polaroid from the holders without processing better than I can. Google around. Have fun.

Because after I take each exposure I look at the back of the camera, (checking film winding), a lot of people ask if it is a digital camera.

Hi I have a Crown and recomend it, except, it has almost no movements. I have used a Linhof with the hand grip recomended in a previous post and the grip is a thing of beauty. I have a crappier version that is not as ergonomic and relies a little too heavily on gaffa tape but improves hand holding no end. It is old, second hand, and made by vivitar. I find this easier to hold than the graphic box and because I have a few lenses that do not work with the body mounted shutter trigger.

I am assuming you did not make a typo when asking your question. If so I would have to say "hypofocal" is just such a typo or a misspelling of "hyperfocal". You got a bag of definitions for that already.

From your front runners I can assume you are on a modestish budget. That precludes most rangefinders, a shame really as they are probably most suitable to hiking. I don't have any experience with the brons but I can comment on the mamiya tlr's.

 

I have a c33, the last all metal model, and it is HEAVY. I believe the lightest model would be the most recently built c220. It may not have some of the features you are looking for though. The lightest and best equiped would be the c330s or f. Now I don't have much experience with SLRs (mostly through assisting) but I believe three TLR lens sets would weigh less than three SLR lenses, that may be enough to swing your choice to the mamiyas.

 

In fact I just checked a printed copy of G. Patterson's website that came with my camera and it contends that a three lens system falling into the 50-60, 75-90, and 150-180mm focal lengths would weigh 2955 grams for the bronica SQA, 2515 for a c220, and 2705 for the c330s.

 

Size though I think would probably favour the Bronica.

 

 

I think the TLR lenses are very good, and not just because I use them. They are probably not as good as more expensive and modern lenses but still bloody good, especially considering the price! I shoot almost exclusively tranny and am more than happy with the results (all black shutters 55, 80, and 180S, lens hoods for all.). I wouldn't like to compare reliability as I don't know much about the brons but I haven't hearn much bad about them and I believe all mechanical cameras are fairly reliable. In fact as an assistant I have come across a few camera systems and the most finicky and breakdown prone have been 'Blads. I hate, hate, hate, worn Hasselblad backs. Which brings me to a final point. Buy a SLR with interchangable backs, not for zone processing, or changing film, but for polaroid, it is a god send when shooting tranny in difficult light or with flash. I will soon be moving up to a SLR for this reason unless I can build a relable polaroid body for my TLR.

Getting 120 prints and developing done at labs is expensive. Particularly compared to 35mm. Don't let this put you off. I really only shoot tranny and traditional B+W 120 film because of this. I don't know how accurate a lubitel shutter is (or much about them at all really) but if you can get it tested you should consider shooting some tranny with it. You WILL get hooked once you see a few 120 slides.

People DO still shoot medium and large format professionally, you know Art.

 

Duane your camera takes all types of polaroid pack film. Most pro to semi pro shops should stock a couple of types of film. Check out the landlist, you dont really need a manual once you have seen this site. Polaroid film IS expensive, try to buy slightly expired film, not too old though because the chemicals in the film dry up. You will probably need to adjust exposure using the ring around the lens because the cameras are optimised for 80 ISO film and you will probably be buying 100 ISO. Check out the polaroid web site and look for PACK FILM. Enjoy.

The crown has bugger all front movements and no rear movements. Would you consider a rail camera? I guess it depends what you use the camera for. I have a crown and I rarely use the movements because they are so limited. The lack of rear movements severly limits the perspective control of graphic press cameras, front movements mostly for focus, rear mostly for perspective. Look around and make sure these are the right cameras for you. As to the roll film holders I have very little experience but at school we had some holders that slid into grafloc backs.

How about an assistant? I often take a friend, or my ever suffering girlfriend, along on night shots to watch equipment while I take light readings and to hold flashes. I also have the basic Mamiya grip and find it useful for fill flash with a small hotshoe adaptor thingie it places my cheapo Hanimex flash about the same place as a potato masher would be. Assistants are better though.

The answer is probably no. I guess it depends on how you define bundle. I think most of the MF rangefinders are pretty pricey even second hand and SLR's are always pretty expensive. Maybe an older mamiya 6 RF, I dont know much about them but they seem like they could be something that could suit you. Don't rule out a TLR though, WLF's just take a little getting used to. Don't forget a lightmeter ambient/flash is the way to go. Remember "fast" in MF is f 2.8 or so. I would usually recomend a TLR as a way to get into MF they are light, can be cheap, and generally hold resale very well. Think about it.

I too had this problem so I had an optometrist design glasses that inverted everything. I wear these constantly and now my brain has adapted.(I can't drive or play sports though.) So now when I use my crown I just have to remove my glasses. In addition to the 110xl you may want to get sinar zoom roll back I have seen these on ebay for as little as $5.

You don't really need a manual, check out landlist.org . They should have the info you need to shoot with it. Its not really a medium format per se but they are a lot of fun.

If you are in or near Melbourne checkout Camera Exchange on the corner of Hardware Ln and Lonsdale St. Service can be a bit hit and miss if they are busy but they have a great range of second hand gear. I have seen pretty rough looking RB's in there for about $1000. They have a decent warranty period (three months I think) and RB's are pretty hardy. Older medium format gear and built in meters do not go hand in hand. Check out light meters before you go buying a medium format camera, I cannot recommend a combination ambient/flashmeter enough. Unless you progress to spotmetering it is all the meter you will ever need.

Well firstly I am a Mamiya TLR user and I would say if you are thinking about buying a rollei TLR you will probably not like the mamiyas.

 

I use mine pretty seriously (I am assisting a the moment but I shoot for myself) and I find interchangable lens a boon, but the sucker weighs a ton. If you have the money and can live with one lens then a lightweight rollei TLR would be the go.

 

Don't discount the non-collector TLR's if it is for casual use, but as you can probably tell some of the have spotty reputations.

 

If you are at all serious about photography buy an hand held ambient/flashmeter you will keep it forever. Minolta auto meter IVfs should be cheap second hand since the release of the V's. If you can afford the V it is a handier and still kind of cheap meter. That said C-41 B+W has a very forgiving latitude so you can probably use the sunny 16 rule 'til you buy a meter.

 

I lust after a rollei TLR myself but I accept the weight/flexability trade off with the Mamiya. Depends what your favorite lens is I guess. I couldnt live without a three lens kit. I also need the weight training as I am thinking about buying a RZ.

Hi I have a 545i that can be temperamental. Sometimes (everytime I am really happy with a shot) pushing the button does not release the metal clip bit at the bottom of the polaroid envelope. For consistent results I set the lever to P. Then pull out about 1cm of the film until I am certain the clip has been released, then switch the lever to L press button and remove. You might not need to do this but it is a handy trick to know.

Don't forget bellows factor. If your 35mm has a longish lens and spot metering it could be an alternative to a "proper" spot meter. If you have film in your camera you could record camera movements, quick moving wildlife or that funny thing the dog did.

I found a site that showed how to remove the lens. I dug out the f10 aperture and that made it closer to f8 and then added a sunny aperture about f16. I cut the mask and stuck in some cardboard baffles cut from a 4x5 film box and I don't need to tape the camera at all( except a strip over the red window). I have also seen them with extension tubes, and lens hoods. One crafty person I know made a pretty basic motor drive and remote trigger to mount beneath his car so could take worms eye photographs while rally driving. The first time he used it the whole thing (and a substantial part of his car) was destroyed by a large rock.

 

Ahhh fun and games.

Well the damn shutter broke and i had to take the front of to re-attatch a spring and I discovered the synch trips as the shutter opens to its fullest so X sych it is.

 

I am in Australia so I might shop around locally for alternatives to Mr Grimes. That bi post adaptor is cheaper than I thought it would be, but I am really cheap so that online auction place might be the go. As to mounting I have a friend who is a fitter and turner and a pretty handy guy I'll ask him when he gets some time. The only thing left to worry me is the glass marks. They are really stubborn and i am considering giving them a light polish. I know I have read something in the archives about this to I'm off to search through them.

sorry make that '52 and '53.

If it helps any in getting a response I have dated the lens as being manufactured between 1929 and 1931.

Depends what your more familiar/comfortable with. Most wedding photographers I know use a combination of film formats (hand held 35mm mostly and mf for the groups) or they just use digital. So go figure.

I would not recomend the speed or crown graphics as you seem to have gotten used to some movements and there are bugger all on these cameras. The super is the way to go if you want to buy a graphic. I believe the toyo field cameras were based on the supers at least in the begining. I have a crown and I love it but I am going to have to buy a camera with movements one day. As it is I might regret buying the crown if I had not paid stuff all for it (less than the price of the 'roid 545i back which came with it).

Well I just recieved a Schneider Xenar 240 4.5 non tele in a compound

shutter (bloody huge shutter + lens). I was wondering if the bi-post

sych would most likely be x or m? I could test by firing a flash and

looking through the shutter IF I had a bi-post PC adaptor (I was

planning on building my own but that might take some time).

 

Also on the front element there are mottled markings that look like

small grease stains but will not wipe off when I use alcohol. I

thought these might be cleaned up fungus markings but they don't look

very spidery (i've only really encountered spidery fungus. This is

only on the outside of the front element and is so frequent that if

this was fungus I would expect it to be on other surfaces as well.

Any ideas about what this could be would be greatly appreciated.

thanks.

 

 

Oh and any hints about how I can fit this monster to my crown would

also help, its starting to give me a massive headache.

You should be able to get the vests in any work saftey type store. While you're there buy 1/2 doz traffic cones. If you're not a pro this as cheap as public liability cover can get. If someone trips over your tripod with all this gear set up then they get what they deserve. On another note, couple the vest with some overalls and a hardhat and you can get away with just about anything. THE GRAPHIC AVENGER goes undercover.

Hi Jon, Vanbar doesn't have any in stock?? Melbourne based and absolute bastards when it comes to counter based customer service but they will stock most everything. Or they'll get orders in from asia probably faster than the US. They have a website just give them a google.