greg_moss2

I will try it but I really like the wide, leather, padded straps. My favorite strap was a soft, cotton 4" wide strap that I had on my Nikon F-3 HP for almost 8 years. The manufacturer no longer exists.

I also like a quick release for tripod work. And isn't enough that I paid for this camera without having to advertise for "Canon" (Just Kidding!)

Ouch! Lightroom and Photoshop CS don't support new RAW format. Yet!

I've been using Sandisk Extreme III and IV (4 & 8 Gb)in MkII, so I will probably using them in MkIII. On some shoots I pop a 2 GB Toshiba SD card in as a backup.

So this really is the new battery? It seems so small and light! The camera does

seem lighter, even with the 24-70 L mounted. I couldn't wait for the battery to

charge so I'm setting it up with the AC adapter.

 

First Impressions:

 

Lighter, smoother lines (rounded edges)

 

Big LCD screen, bright and very legible. I already have my nose print on it!

 

Controls seem easy to move but not too loose.

 

Viewfinder is exquisite!Almost too big for me an eye-glass wearer.

 

I love shutter sound. "Silent" is quieter. Will have to remember to keep "beep"

off

 

Finally, vertical grip shutter release has a 'touch" to it. Not on or off.

 

Fast focus.

 

4-way controller & SET button are nice for menu navigation. No more push menu,

hold , no, I meant select, no menu...

 

 

Now to the store to buy a decent camera strap. My 1D MkII Canon strap broke.

Don't want that to happen again.

 

No images to upload yet. I plan to shoot some low light images at a HS

graduation ceremony tonight.

Hmmmm... I just received notice from Fedex that my shipment (1D MkIII)is on it's way! Right now it's sitting in Atlanta. It looks like I'll get the camera before 3:00 pm Friday! I just won't have time to charge the battery before a graduation shoot tomorrow night. I guess I can use the AC Adapter.

Save up! Get the Canon 100 2.8. Nice bokeh and good working distance for macro work. Hopefully the diamond won't scratch the front of the lense! A lot of people think this lens should have been labeled an "L". It's the only non-L lense I own.

I have an Inland Marine policy as well through State Farm. That covers equipment anywhere in the world. Most homeowners won't cover it unless it's at home or in your car and some may cover it if it's in your hotel room. Don't forget to make sure you cover your computers, printers, etc. Something could happen to them as well. (Personal experience!) I pay around $600 US per year but I'm covered for up to $50,000 US worth of equipment. So adding more equipment may not make it go up that much. My policy doesn't require that I notify them every time I add on a piece. It just covers a specified amount of equipment. I keep serial numbers, prices, date purchased, etc. in an Excel spreadsheet. When I travel abroad, I post it on my website, hidden of course, so I can access it if there's a problem.

 

Good Luck!

Kangaru is a portable hard drive, USB, with multi-edia reader. Insert memory card, push copy. It creates folder based on type of card, eg. CF001, then copies entire contents of card to that folder. (30 Minutes for full 4 Gb card.)I have shot 8-10 football games using 2 cards. I switch at half time and then at end of game. Format after copying. Repeat as ncessary;-)When I get to the office, plug in the Kangaru and tranfer all files to computer. Start editing process wehen done.

Kanagru is a brand name. Other companies make portable devices with LCD screens but they may not work with RAW files.

 

http://www.kanguru.com/cardreaders.html

 

It may not be what you want, but it is an option you may want to look in to.

If all you want to do is transfer files from card to other storage, why not use a Kangaru or similar device? Then you can tranfer or edit when plugged into laptop or computer. Some have LCD screens which would need the Jpeg image to view. (I use RAW+Small.)

 

Just a thought.

DPP is fine, but I prefer DSLR Remote Pro http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro/index.htm

 

Extra fee yes, but worth in the studio.

 

Ditto, use one cable not extensions.

To help understanding (Or to muddy the waters even more!) Think of "F" numbers as fractions. Which is larger? 1/2 a pizza or 1/4?

F stops are actually determined by dividing the focal length of the lens, let's say 100mm, by the opening of the lens aperture, lets say 25mm. This would prodcue an F stop of f4. This really helps to understand why those big lenses are so thick and round (400mm/142mm=f2.8)

Question. Canon Forum, Canon Camera & Flash? Notice on the ebay website that this unit does not work with 580ex, 430ex or 420ex. (Big red letters above the photos.) But they show the 580EX mounted with the receiver. I'm confused. I would stay away. Sorry:-(

I use standard Akalines but you can use NiCad for the Canon Transistor Pack E - External Battery Pack($141.95 @ B&H). It uses 6 "C" Size Batteries. I change the batteries whenever I set my clocks back or forward for daylight savings time;-) It recycles fast and has yet to die on me. Remember to keep 4 "AA" in the flash. Set Cf-n 7 to 1 to use the 6 "C" to "power" the flash and use the 4 "AA" to "control" the flash. Some may find it bulky to hang around your neck but if you use "L" lenses you are already into body building!

2.8. On the D30, (My First Canon DSLR) you will like the faster focus with the 2.8.

Interesting indeed. B&H was out of stock, as well as Adorama. Stranger yet...And then the part came from New Jersey. When it was returned to shipper, it went to a warehouse 20 miles from my home. (SC)

I placed an order online. Oops! My mistake. I called 2 minutes after they

opened to cancel the order. Has it been shipped? No! Has it been packaged? No!

Has the item been pulled off the shelf? No! Can I cancel the order? No! Just

refuse the package when it comes. Now it has taken 46 days to get my credit

card credited MINUS the shipping charges.

 

Just venting my frustrations with the Canon E-store. I guess I'll keep using

B&H for all orders! They were out of stock on the item.

Simple way: Use the video output and run directlyh to the data projector. Set the review time to HOLD. Until you press the shuuter halfway, the last image will be displayed.

 

Higher quality and more information way: Using remote capture software that comes with the camera or breezeway's DSLR capture software, you can use the computer to actually trigger the shutter, change settings on the camera and review shots already taken. I like the breezeway ($95 US) because you can actully snap off a preview shot and the image is almost full screen when you shoot. And your picture info is on the left side of the screen.

 

http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro/index.htm

 

It really depends on the camera you are using for specifics, but most Canon cameras can be used that way. Some have wireless capability or wireless can be added via an accessory.

 

Good Luck.

Try setting camera in dark room at 1/2 second exposure. Buy a strobe light from Radio Shack or Spencer's.(Should be on sale after Halloween!) Set the f stop based on light from strobe. Try different speeds of strobe effect on one frame of "Film". Experiment until you get what you want. Strobe will illuminate background so use black velvet or velour. Strobe wil have cumulative effect if you get to many images close together.

 

I've used this for baseballs, darts, etc.

Buy the 10-22. When you go full frame, give the 10-22 to your neice. You will be able to use the 16-35.

 

10-22mm on 30D with crop factor = 16-35.2mm

Almost the same as 16-35 on full frame.

And yes, the dust will be more visible at f22 than f2.8.(Depth of Field issue) So always do your checking at the minimum f stop that the lens has. And I typically overexpose the frame so the dust really shows up even more clearly. I shoot the sky at +3 stops at F32. Any dust will show up clearly. I also use the sensor swabs and Eclipse fluid method.

 

Some pointers: Change lens with the camera off, point the camera downward and never in a dusty or windy environment.

 

Hope this helps...

Get the 2.8

 

In response to Lucas's question, I think, The IS is great for weddings or other events where the action is, well, not very active. But the greater f stop, in addition to making the focus faster and the viewfinder brighter, will give you an extra stop of shutter speed. Which can be very important when shooting sports in existing light. IS will not slow down a soccer player or a football player.

 

And then when you add the 1.4, you will have a 100-280 f4!

Just my opinion, but it use to be that the rule of thumb for handholding a specific lens was using the focal length as the slowest shutter speed you could effectively handhold. eg. 15mm lens=1/15 of a second. IS will usually gain 2-3 stops in slower shutter speeds. Would you really want to handhold a 1/2 second shutter? OR maybe the IS doesn't work for shutter speeds that slow. Surely it is easier to stabilize an image for 1/100 or second or so versus stabilizing that same image for 1/2 a second.

 

Just my 2 cents...

And it even works with Breezeway's DSLR Remote Pro.

 

Now, how long is this firewire cable?

Richard, "BINGO"! If Personal Function 21,( Quiet, Delayed-Frame Shutter) is ON, the camera will not fire by remote. Even If you are not in single shot mode. (The only time it actually uses the quiet, delayed shutter!)

 

I did't try it with Mirror Lockup so I can't say if that would make a difference or not!

 

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

I almost forgot, the capture window will let me change camera ISO, Mode, Metering, WB etc. The camera is definitely in communication with the PC.