greg_moss2

<p>Can't remember exactly D30 ~65,000, Two 10Ds: < 30,000 on one, 75,000 on the other. 1D MkII: >147,000 in two years. My 1D MkIII has 93,097. Just a baby!</p>

<p>1. Maybe silly, but... I had an associate that would rename the folder when he opened it on the CF card in Explorer. Then he dragged the folder over to the hard drive. That made the camera unable to read it.<br>

2. Some camera-transfer software has a "Delete after Copy" option. Make sure that it's not checked.</p>

<p>Good luck.</p>

<p>Ikelite makes several, depending on camera.</p>

<p>I've used Ewa Marine down to 60' and had no problems.</p>

<p>Page 97 of Manual</p>

<p>I sold my 16-35 and bought the Canon 14mm II. EXIF indicated that I was almost always shooting wide at 16mm or zoomed in to 35. (And sometimes I couldn't backup another 2 feet.) I use my 24-70 most of the time.</p>

<p>Ok. Eyefi... no. It needs a wireless hub, no adhoc computer-to-computer network.<br>

WFT-E2A to a WiFi capable PDA with a web browser... yes!<br>

Set WFT mode to HTTP. Setup IP address & up to 3 user logins. Select the IP address in your PDA's web browser. Login. You can run remote capture, view files, etc. I was not able to try live view, but it should work. (Page 39 Chapter 4 of the WFT Manual) Is it worth $700 for WFT? You can buy the Asus Netbook for around $300 with Windows XP. Then run the USB cable to almost <strong>any</strong> EOS camera. You then have a 8.9" or 10" screen, files can be saved to both camera & PC and you have a new laptop!<br>

Good Luck!</p>

<p>Hmmm... would the Eyefi cards or the Wifi (Wireless File Transmitter WFT-E2A or similar)that Canon makes, be able to broadcast to your PDA? My PDA has Wifi and I can set it up like a notebook PC. Depending on which camera & PDA, there may be a way to do it. That would be cool if you could. I'll have to experiment a little.</p>

<p>Canon TC 1.4 II doesn't work with the Canon 24-70. The TC fits up into the lens. The 24-70 has a lens element at the back of the lens.</p>

<p>Canon's website: "This tele extender can be used with fixed focal length lenses 135mm and longer (except the 135mm f/2.8 Softfocus lens), and the EF 70-200 f/2.8L, 70-200 f/2.8L IS, 70-200 f/4.0L, 70-200 f/4.0L IS USM, and 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS zoom lenses."</p>

<p>No chance of getting the ACK-E6 power adapter by then? It would be nice if Canon included the AC adapter, but I guesss that's reserved for the 1D series.<br>

And yes, the BG-E6 grip holds two batteries.</p>

<p>Staying in the park? Take it all, then take a photo safari in the afternoon while the kids are napping and the maybe another one with the wife later in the night after dinner. Tripods are frowned upon but I've used monopods if I keep mobile. And if you are going in the near future, you shouldn't have to worry about too large of a crowd or the heat. In fact, take lightweight jackets or sweaters. The Parks close earlier this time of year but it can still get cold in the evenings. Typcially, the Animal Kingdom Kilimanjaro Safari ride is way too bouncy to use the 70-200 with 1.4 TC for serious shots. But Disney does offer a "Resort Guest only ride" in the morning before the park opens and they take it real slow for us shutterbugs. (I think that's only in the summer time?)<br>

Not staying in the park? Buy an Olympus SW series camera (Under $200) Shockproof, waterproof, fits in your pocket or tummy tote and easy for the rest of the family to use. You do want YOUR picture with Mickey don't you?<br>

Have fun, wish I could go!</p>

<p>I have used the EWA marine bags quite successfully down to about 30'. I really liked it when I did the Stingray city in Grand Cayman.(Waist level feeding of the Stingrays) I've used them with my Nikon 35 mm (F3 and FA) and my Canon 30D, 10D and 1d Mk II and III. Reminder: Use a wide angle underwater. You get about a 25% "zoom", plus any sediment will be minimized the closer you are. I currently have the one (U-AXP now replaced with the U-BXP) that holds the camera and a flash. It's great for closeup shots but it really shows any sediment in the water. It runs about $400 at B&H but it will work with any SLR .(Film or Digital) BYW: You only need the weights if you are sucba diving and not just snorkeling near the surface. Have fun, seems like a fun gig!</p>

In the mean time, just download it off their website.

Thom Hogan's article was posted on 3-19-06. Now that Nikon has gone to the CMOS chip, I wonder if he may have a

different opinion. Old CCD tech vs. new CMOS tech. He was comparing CCD D200 to the cameras available at the

time."On the plus side, CCD sensors tend to have less noise than CMOS sensors, all other factors equal." Things

are no longer equal! My experience wiht 30D and D200 were close with Canon in a slight lead.

 

 

I would go with D300 or 40D (or the new 50D). Which one fits you hand better? Either will produce great images in

low light. Buy the system. Hang on for a great ride. These are exciting times for digital photography!

Which articles regarding CCD better than CMOS? All the new Nikons (except D200) have gone to CMOS chips.(D3, D300, D700, D90)

Just be careful. When you rotate the collar about 70 degrees, counter-clockwise (looking at the back of the lens) the little pins line up and allow you to take off the collar. That can be a little startling the first time! I always make it a point to rotate the camera the other way for vertical shots on tripod or monopod. This also makes more sense if you have 1D series or a battery grip because that allows you to use the alternate shutter release and other controls. BTW the big white knob on the side of the collar is the loosening/tightening knob. Pretty easy to access and turn.

 

And it's a great lens to have!

Sorry, the 135 with 1.4x is F/2.8, same as the 70-200 in the same range. My Bad!

Which camera are you using? That can really affect the AF. The Canon 1.4 doesn't work with the 24-70 but I don't know about other brands. The Canon TC1.4II on the 70-200 delivers very good images for me. I do not like to use the TC 2x unless absolutely needed. I shoot mainly sports with the 300 2.8 and soemtimes will switch to the 70-200 with the 1.4 to be able to zoom out to capture closer action. I also own the 135 f/2 but never use the 1.4 with it. That would be a 189mm f/4. My 70-200 would be at 2.8 for the same length. Any TC will degrade the image so I would ragther use the 70-200 without the 1.4 rather than the 135 with the 1.4.

 

I would recommend the 70-200 with the 1.4x II as a means of expanding you range.

Make sure Personal Function 21 (Quiet Delayed Shutter) is turned off.

So.. If i add an extra PW to the equation, Wire the red wire to one PW and the whtie wire to a second PW, I could fire the camera or "Press the Shutter" halfway. Put each on a different channel and use one transmitter to fire or change channel to wake up or focus, etc. I just found the RS-80N3 cable that I bought years ago. I may have to do some surgery!

 

And no, I didn't go out and buy a bunch of PW to do this. I already owned a dozen or so. I even own the PW cable to fire the Canon Camera, but this looks like fun! Maybe I can fire another camera.

 

Thanks for the tip.

Just a guess, the 580EX II probaby has a safety switch to disable the PC input when mounted on camera.

Don't try the Sekonic plugged into the camera. The sekonic and the camera are both outputting about 6 volts when you trigger. I have read somewhere that the 580EX II PC connector only can be used as an input, not an output.

 

Try using both flashes mounted. One just above or beside the camera position.

Why not try all three and see which works best for you.

Flash can fill in most shadows if you are close enough.

Meter on subjects and recompose.

Sand and snow, opening up one stop works great.

 

Every situation is different. Are you shooting into the sun? Sun on your back? After suneset?

Should have checked the 580EXII. The connector on the flash is a PC connector as well. Some have suggested that you use the Nikon screw mount so it won't come out. So you would need a long PC to PC sync cord.

 

5'

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40258-REG/Paramount_PMB6C_PC_Male_to_PC.html

 

18' Extension

http://www.amazon.com/Bowens-Straight-Extension-Sync-Female/dp/B000ECYO6K

 

or this 15' Straight cable

http://www.samys.com/product_detail.php?item=6746

 

What camera are you using? Not all cameras have a PC connector. IF you don't have one, you can purchase an adapter for around $10

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/135782-REG/General_Brand_SF943_Hot_Shoe_to_PC.html

 

Can I confuse you anymore?

Not sure where to start.

I have the 580EX, not the II. Check the manual and see if you have a CFN 9. On the 580ex, the test button fires at 1/32 power by default. That's about 5 stops under maxium power. Try changing the CFN to On or 1. If you are firing the flash on the camera, that shouldn't matter. That may be why you can't get to f8.

 

A sync cord runs from the pc connector on the L358, (Under the cover at the bottom.) to the sync input on the bottom of the 580EX II. It looks like a headphone jack. Here's a Paramount cables(http://www.paramountcords.com/proddetail.asp?prod=pw-pc5h) that will do the trick if you are within 5 feet. Most Radio Shack stores will stock mini extensions that you can drag out to 15-25 feet. Set the flash on manual, set the L358 to the Corded flash mode (the Flash icon with the C) When you press the measuring button on the side of the meter, the 580 will flash and the meter will display the correct f-stop you need to set on the camera, Check you shutter speed and ISO to make sure they are within limits. And make sure to point the Lumisphere toward the camera position.

You want fast and low light? Get the 1D MkIII. I shoot performances at ISO 3200 and get decent images. Night sports? can't come close with any thing else (Remember, this is a Canon forum. Assume he has an investment in Canon glass.) The 1.3 crop will be welcome in shooting sports and most performances (unless you are in the nosehair section!)

 

I have one of the first Mk3 and Canon has resolved the focus issue with my camera. With the mirror fix and latest firmware, I am happy I waited!

Off subject, but here's a lens calculator that I made using Excel. Download it if you wish. Drop a line if you find it handy.

 

Supports lenses from 14 to 300mm, APS-C, 1.3 and Full frame

 

www.moss-foto.com/excel/

 

You will have to copy and paste the link.