bryan_harrison
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Posts posted by bryan_harrison
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Hi Kelson. While developing recommendations for Tri-X (35mm) and TXP(120) are slightly different the description of your two negatives may indicate a large difference in exposure, possibly beacause of differences or problems in either of the two cameras or meters. Perhaps the 120 film is underexposed. Check exposure settings and if possible the action of the lens diaphrams and shutters.
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Recommended time for Fuji Neopan 100 in Sprint Standard B&W Film Developer is 10 minutes 68F/20C or chart letter "O". The listing has made it to some of our labels but not all. Update on the website will be coming soon.
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Thanks for the kind words about Sprint Film Developer. Perhaps I can clear-up a small point of confusion. The comparison of Sprint Standard Black & White Film Developer to Kodak D-76 Developer used 1:1 is intended to give the user a reference as to what type of results, in general, can be expected. It is not meant to imply that Sprint Film Developer and Kodak D-76 Film Developer are the same recipe or that they are always used at the same times.
While the results are similar we feel that compared to Kodak D-76 1:1, Sprint Standard Black & White Film Developer will yeild better shadow detail and is less likely to block highlights in areas of overexposure. Because Sprint Film Developer contains a different, proprietary blend of ingredients suggested times compared to Kodak D-76 can vary.
Bryan Harrison, Sprint Systems of Photography
Thin Negatives ?
in Black & White Practice
Posted
Hi Brandon.
If you are indeed fixing for 12 minutes that could be a problem. In that time a fast-acting liquid fixer (ammonium thiosufate based) may indeed almost strip the image off your film. Even a sodium thiosufate fixer like the traditional powdered fixers could cause some bleaching after 12 minutes. Try fixing for 3 minutes with a fast-acting fixer and 5 or 6 minutes with a sodium thiosulfate fixer.
Other things to check might be the developer dilution and your camera's operation. Make sure the developer is mixed according to the manufacturer's instructions and that you are using it at the specified dilution. Have these films all been shot with the same camera? Check the shutter and lens apature to be sure they are working correctly and not causing an severe underexposure. At the same time go over the settings on the camera and/or meter to be sure they are correct for your film's speed rating (ISO). If your camera has a compensation control for under/overexposure check that it is at the normal position. Good luck.