lowell_huff1

<p>The sensitizing dye stain is not photographic. It is susceptible to UV light. Expose it to sun light or a UV lamp and it will eventually fade.<br>

Lowell Huff<br>

Clayton Chemical<br>

310 538 9530</p>

<p>Hello Martin<br>

You can buy Clayton Film Rinse Additive ( 1+200) at Freestyle or Samy's.<br>

Lowell Huff</p>

<p>Brad<br>

North Coast is an excellent B &W lab as well. If you wish to discuss films and processing with me please call 310 538 9530.<br>

Lowell Huff</p>

<p>If you used hardener with your fixer, STOP. The aluminum is dropping out. With today's emulsions, hardener is not needed.<br>

Lowell Huff</p>

<p>D 76, as an MQ formula, does not lend itself well to re use at the 1+1 dilution. PQ formulas do this much more effectively.<br>

Lowell Huff</p>

<p>Sodium Thiosulfate fixer is SLOW (5 to 6 minutes). <em>RAPID FIXER IS FAST (30 second or less). </em>Plus the time and effort to get the other chemicals. Is your life time worth it? You could spread it in your flower beds as fertilizer.<br>

Lowell Huff</p>

<p>When Clayton Chemical manufactures both ODORLESS STOPBATH with INDICATOR, SUPER STRENGTH STOP BATH with INDICATOR and AMMONIA FUME ABSORBER, we have always used Bromo-cresol Purple. I have never experienced indicator failure. Maybe there was not enough indicator in the solution. When we do testing in the lab, the pH change point is instant and very appearant.<br>

LOWELL HUFF</p>

<p>I recommend exposing the film as printed and developing in F 76 (1+9) for 11.25 to 12 minutes. Send me an email and i will return a CLAYTON DEVELOPMENT CHART.</p>

<p>Or you could always ask me. Then you won't guess or interpret the processing information.<br>

Lowell Huff</p>

<p>How do you think we chemical manufacturers can stay in business if you continue to try and use developer and other chemicals of undetermined age and activity?<br>

I would recommend that if the chemistry is more than two years old ,un opened, and more than six months, opened, toss it.</p>

<p>People will tell you that "love" or "money" or both make the world go round. This is not the truth.<br>

Chemistry makes the world go round!</p>

<p>I agree with Lynn, sodium hex will be equally as effective.</p>

<p>KODAK PROFESSIONAL Technical Pan Glass Plate<br>

Ideal for applications ranging from pictorial photography to photomicrography to laser recording,</p>

<ul>

<li>medium to high contrast</li>

<li>Speed: EI 25-250</li>

<li>Miro-fine grain, extremely high resolution</li>

<li>good latent-image keeping characteristics</li>

<li>Panchromatic(extended red) sensitivity</li>

</ul>

<p>Why a two part developer? To what measureable advantage?<br>

Why would anyone want to spend 45 minutes developing film?</p>

<p>May I ask why?</p>

<p>Excepting small manufacturing defects, quality film images are going to be found in the skill of the photographer not the brand on the box. making the most of those images, like making a silk purse out of a sow's ear, which I can do, is done with the CHEMISTRY! Better quality chemistry makes better images.</p>

<p>No image, film not exposed.<br>

no edge print, processing error, fixer first before developer.</p>

<p>Check the bottle of ARISTA LIQUID DEVELOPER, it should have the words printed in red "NEW AND IMPROVED FORMULA". If it does not, I would not use any more of that bottle. Get the batch number off the bottle and call Freestyle. I am sure they will be pleased to work with you. If it does have that statement, you may have to increase the development time. these times are "suggested starting points" not cast in contrete. Each batch of film will have different different speed and down through the years, I have seen as much as a full stop difference in speed, one batch to another.</p>

<p>Gone</p>

<p>HIGHLY CONCENTRATED DEVELOPERS, un diluted, do not have enough water to effectively penetrate emulsions and carry the necessary agents to the silver halides. The same can be said for concentrated fixers.</p>

<p>I do believe, in any "reversal process", re-exposure is how you have an image at the end of processing.<br>

The faster films will technically reverse; the results will not be pleasing. That is why the 100 speed films are recommended. The slower the better. <br>

I also believe that the Kodak Kit has ben "DQed"</p>

<p>Lex i was just asking a question in general not specifics.</p>

<p>Please help me understand why you guys like powder developers and fixers over liquids?</p>

<p>You will want them to be "bullet proof". i recommend our F 76 plus DEVELOPER. Dilutie it 1+9 and develop for 7 minutes.</p>

<p>These developers are high contrast, graphic arts, machine process, RAPID ACCESS FILM DEVELOPERS. They will probably not give you the results you are looking to get. You will find over development to be the bane of your existance and you will spend a great deal of money on film to come to the conclusion that this was a mistake.</p>