jc5066

To control backlighting you need a fill flash, or at least a reflector. The dark faces with the bright background is pretty bad. Might try some PS work to balance this out.

No, not Nikon. If you read Earl's post, which obviously you didn't, he has elan7. The choise is quite simple really. Canon 20D. I'm sure you have some lenses for that elan that will work on the 20D.

 

The new D200 is nice. Why switch systems? Nikon-Canon, they will continue to up each other on the next model. Save yourself some money and stick with the system you already have.

 

As a Nikon shooter, it really hurts to suggest 20D.

 

What does available light have to do with deciding on what camera?

Retail Business?

 

So by the same means, if you shoot a wedding and have prints made for them, they can return everything and get a full refund up to 90 days after the wedding?

 

Do you do a price guarantee too? Match compeditor prices?

I believe in good will, but come on people, the retainer is simply buying that date. By the time someone cancells, more then likely you'll be hard pressed to fill the date. There "mistake" may cost you hundreds of dollars even when keeping the retainer.

 

Why sign contracts? Why collect anything up front, if you just going to give it back anyway?

 

You have to draw a line somewhere, thats why we have contracts and retainers. Then again, I don't charge a huge retainer, very modest.

DO NOT TEAR UP THE CONTRACT.

 

Repeat, DO NOT TEAR UP THE CONTRACT. Thats flat out stupid. Hopefully you got a non-refundable deposit. If you rip up that contract you have no proof you can keep it. I hope your contracts have a non-refundable deposti.

 

What does it state in your contract?

 

Tell them you need something in writing stating that they are cancelling the wedding and what ever terms to cash on the table and have them sign and date it. You can sign a copy of it too stating you agree upon the terms.

Tell them tough luck. Try to some PS work to bring some detail out of the background. Crop tighter to reduce background.

 

What lens? Serious barrell distortion goin on.

Who uses an image stablizer for durring weddings?

 

Looking at either the Nikon 80-200 or the 70-200 VR. One is half as

much as the other. From my understanding both are pretty equal in all

aspects except VR.

 

Does anyone shoot weddings with the VR on? Is it worth it?

Yes, sort of.

Open the disc with Nikon View. Select all. Right click, copy as jpegs.

 

Thats the way I do I large quantity of RAW to jpeg.

The best way around this is to sell a package before the wedding. This way you know your getting your money, well actually have your money by the time the proofs go out. I just give them away. They've already paid for prints there going to order.

 

If they want to do ala carte, then I tell them they need to plan on sitting down with me for an hour or so to view proofs. They do not get proofs until prints are ordered and paid for.

 

I really stress selling packages up-front. Get your guaranteed money. No, its not right to copy proofs, but theres not much you can really do to someone that wants to cheat you. When theres a will theres a way. Personally my packages are not x # of xsize prints, its a credit for x$$ worth of prints. Paid before wedding. For them to drop a couple hundred extra dollars a few weeks after the wedding is not a big deal. So they do upsize the orders from time to time.

 

Oh yeah, I stamp/sticker the back with a ﾩ symbol and studio info. Maybe the clerk at wally world will take notice.

Can anyone help me out? My blacks are producing too deep of a black.

Loosing some detail and dark areas are really dark.

Replaced the bulb, and it works. Pretty easy stuff. Never soldered before, except a couple test wires before hand. Didn't really save much this time, but when I need a bulb replaced, it will be a huge savings. You can order bulbs through Novatron if you wish. You must sign a waiver. A merchant on ebay sells bulbs all the time for $23.

Got tubes on order. $23 on ebay. Going to try to solder them in this weekend. I'll let everyone know how it goes. Should be pretty easy to do.

Thanks guys. Contact the ebay seller and novatron. Novatron says you have to send it to them because now they use the color corrected bulbs and they have to do stuff to the head, yeah what ever. Color corrected bulbs would be nice, but they're 3 times a much. I shoot digital, easy to fix.

The Ebay seller said he has sold hundreds of these with-out a complaint. Going to order a couple of these for back-ups.

Just purchased an old Novatron 440 Plus with a pair of 2010 and one

2110 head. The flash bulb is blown on one the 2010. Can you still

purchase replacement bulbs? How hard are these to replace? I dont

sodder, but I know people who do. Would it be better to purchase

another head?

 

I would assume any Novatron head would work, if it is equal or

greater in watts.

 

Does anyone know the wattage of the 2010 and 2110?

Can you have a rating from your photo removed? Once in a while you

get somebody who rates way below everyone else. Is there a way to

get this removed? I'm not trying to have the top rated photo but it

really pisses me off when someone gives you a 2 and everyone else has

given you a 4,5,or 6. Did these other nine people over rate and have

one honest person? I don't think so. If I'd recieved a 3 or two I

could understand a 2.

Ok I feel better now that I got that out.

My only concern with close up lens would be integrity of the image. I want to produce the best possible image w/out having to fork the cash for a macro lens (at this time). How much does the close-up lens effect quality of image?

Shooting with a D100. Currently my only lens is the 24-85mm. Cost

is an issue. Want to do some macro. I want my metering but don't

care about AF. What is the differance between the pn-11 ring and the

other extention tubes? What about reversal ring? Any all opinions

would be great. Would like 1:1 if not better.

Not to sound completely stupid, but I need some help. I am currently

a serious amateure photographer. I have the opportunity to do some

work with a pro. He primarily uses digital cameras, Nikon and

Canon. Do I need the "Profesional" digital camera or will the Nikon

100 D do everything I need it to do?

 

I know the Nikon D2H is a lot quicker, but I guess I need your

general advice and more specifically will it work with all of his

equipment?

Turn the winder until the arrow on the film paper points to the 120 marker on the inside of the camera. Shut the door and keep winding until you go just past the 0. The next crank will "cock" the shutter.

This may be obvious, are you loading the film correctly. Make sure your arrows are lined up, the one on the roll of the film and the one on the camera and shut the lid.