yog_sothoth

<p>The Soviet lenses may or may not be calibrated to a Leica body, depending on your luck. The lens may need to be dissassembled and shimmed to be accurate. A Canon or Leica lens would be accurate without luck or shimming, but they cost more. On a budget I recommend Canon lenses, as they are high quality, focus properly, and less expensve than Leica lenses. </p>

<p>I really like my collapsible Summicron. It essentially lives at f2. The Summicron is lower contrast than my 1980's Contax 50 1.4, but has a nicer look IMHO. </p>

<p>I agree with everyone recommending a UV filter and a hood. If the lens is in good condition a UV filter will go a long way to keep it in good condition. My summicron does not flare to any great extent, but it may have been recoated at some point, as the coating looks pristine.</p>

<p>Honesty is the best way to avoid returns and negative feedback. </p>

<p>People use "Minty" all too often. I searched for "Minty" on ebay and found 158 results in film cameras and 32 in vintage cameras. </p>

<p>Can this be done somehow? Aside from the fact that most cameras described as "Minty" have some sort of damage or wear, it sounds like they stuffed breath mints into the camera somewhere.</p>

<p>Leica rangefinders are unique and interesting while these cameras are consumer products with rhinestones. At least those willing to drop thousands on a "luxury" camera will have auto focus now. </p>

<p>Live view and focus peaking are great additions. I am not buying an "M" but they have certainly made a very good camera.</p>

<p>Using a Leica iiif, which essentially looks like a little chrome plated steam train, on a sunny day gets me some odd looks. I can see why the black paint versions of cameras are often popular. Using an Elmar 90 on a Canon 7 is rather odd-looking as well. </p>

<p>I did find my Industars to be good on the FED bodies they came with but they do not focus properly on a Leica body. My Leica lenses do not focus properly on my FED bodies.</p>

<p>The Industar 61 is a very good lens, and is best used on an FSU camera. I sometimes use my FED 5 and Industar lens. While the FSU lenses are competing with Leica and Canon lenses, which is challenging, you can pick up a FSU camera and a pile of Industar and Jupiter lenses for the cost of a Leica body. </p>

<p>At some point I am debating getting a Leningrad and some FSU lenses for fun. I don't know how often I would choose the Leningrad over my Canon 7, but the Leningrad certainly looks like an interesting camera. </p>

<p>A shot in Cabin John Park with an Olympus RC and Tmax 400<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16442535-lg.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="429" /></p>

<p>Goofing off with a macro lens</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16435072-lg.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="433" /></p>

<p>KEH and Adorama are also great places. </p>

<p>It would take a lot of money up front, but you can buy an M2 or an M3 and then sell it on Ebay when you are done. You may lose money (or make a little) but it would almost certainly be cheaper than renting an M9 and a lens for a week. If you want the Leica "feel" and not the M viewfinder experience a Leica iii series camera and a LTM lens would certainly work and be relatively inexpensive. </p>

<p>I have to say that I worry very little about doing my hobbies efficiently. </p>

<p>At an event educating people about the war of 1812. This gentleman showed medical techniques used in the 1800's. </p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16403617-lg.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="485" /></p>

<p>From a lot of reading it would appear that FSU lenses were often not machined accurately, and the paired camera's rangefinders were adjusted to match the lenses at the factory. This is problematic for someone using a Leica or Canon body if you intend to use more than one lens with the body. </p>

<p>Is there a good way to adjust the length of the helical to get to Leica/Canon standard lengths? In theory a little solder and/or some careful work with a file at the right place could get things right with patience and something at infinity to focus on for calibration. Has anyone done this or is there anyone who does this professionally?</p>

<p>Go shooting with a CV and a fast 50mm lens and you will run back to your M3. The rangefinder base on the CV cameras is tiny. The R4M does sound like fun with wide angle lenses, where the small base would not matter much. </p>

<p>I had and sold an R2 because the focusing was not consistent enough. The focusing problems went away instantly when I started using a iiif. </p>

<p>The Summicron fits well on the Canon 7 and has no issues. I will make sure to mount it and remove it with the barrel extended. </p>

<p>The Canon 7 is quite a chunk of a camera. It is a big switch from a iiif.</p>

<p>The RTS is a great camera and the 50 1.7 is one of the best fast lenses ever. The shots are great.</p>

<p>People take pictures for many reasons, and some of them are best done with film. For many people the inconvenience is the point to some extent. If you like playing with antique cameras, film is pretty much your only choice. If you have fun playing with different development times and different chemicals (XTOL vs Rodinal) film is where it is at.</p>

<p>Lets say one can have a Canon 7 and a Canon 7D in your bag and have fun with both.</p>

<p>The Olympus RC is my favorite. It is tiny and has a great lens.</p>

<p>Thank you for the information. I had read that a summicron barely fits while a summitar or summar does not. I will report back later with the results.</p>

<p>Does anyone have experience with the collapsible 50mm Summicron and the Canon 7? I have read conflicting information on the web as to if the lens can collapse safely or if the lens will hit the light baffles when collapsed. </p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16325932-lg.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="539" /></p>

<p>Leica iiif with 50mm Summicron </p>