dimitri_kalakanis3

Reversing ring: You can try this by hand-holding your lens in reverse on you camera. It is rather cool to play with the magnified images. Pros: Cheap, easy to carry on location. Can reach high magnifications easily. Cons: No auto-control over exposure ¡V you must step-down to measure TTL. Also, the rear element is exposed and always very close to your subject (scary close sometimes). Finally, most lenses are poor performers when reversed¡K sorry I do not know much about your lenses.

 

Close-up kit. Forget the $40 set of three. Get Nikon¡¦s T3 &T4 (or T5 & T6) as they are 2 elements and coated (== better images). A step up in functionality (compared to reversing rings) especially when used with zoom lenses. Pros: cheap and portable. Cons: Your lenses loose focal length (that is you 200mm with the close-up filter will act as a (aaahhh I am guessing here) 150mm ¡V depending on number of close-up filters attached.

 

Extension tubes: Most expensive of your listed option. Most heavy, too! Pros: You get to use your lenses as you are used to with the least image degradation. Cons: Heavy and hard to ¡§forget¡¨ in your bag. I bought the Nikons (manual focus) and I am very happy. Sorry, no experience with the Kenko ones.

 

I use all three and depending on my mood I usually reach for my extension tubes, first, then my close-up lenses, then my reversing ring¡K the reverse order by which I purchase them �º.

 

Last, if you are interested in macro photography you should read John Saw¡¦s Close-ups in Nature. A classic for many.

hmmm... no one talked about the 285 so I will!

 

The Vivitar 285 is still in production (B&H, Adorama, and others) and sells for about $80. The Vivitar 283 sells for less but you have to pay to get variable power and pay more for zoom. The Sunpack 383 goes for $70, has variable power, smaller package than the 285, but no zoom ($$ extra). If the 285's size does not bother you, go for it.

 

The SB 15 is a great flash but found only used. Very flexible and compact. Not as strong as all of the above, though.

 

I have the 383 and the sb15 currently. I am happy with all of them for manual camera use.

OK, this was my first automatic deletion!

Earlier today I replied to this thread with a simple:

 

"Get married!"

 

I still do not see that replied. Sorry if I offended someone...

I thought I was being funny, and at the same time serious as starting a family helped my be more consious on spending...

 

Any way... I hope I did not upset anyone...

Everyone knows not to leave their camera, lens and film in a hot car.

But, what about the tripod? Does it make a difference if it is made

with carbon fider? Also, what about the head (pan or ball)? How well

do such support equipment hold in the trunk of a hot (Texas) car?

 

Thank you in advance,

Hi Shigatsu!

 

Hmmm... you are posting this question on the Nikon forum.... hmmm...

I think you want to get the FM2 and you are looking for others to encourage you! It is OK, I know how you feel.

 

The above answers have covered the topic. The pentax is more basic with less ability to expand. The FM2 is more pro-like with more expansion capabilities. I think it is also better build. It, also, gives you future access to this forum :-) The real question is what are YOU looking for?

 

I have an FM2 and I would never go to a K1000, but I may go for an LX (pentax) which used may cost the same as an FM2 now. But that is me. I use only a few primes and I know I can get them with either brand. LX and FM2 are fully cabable and "sexy" enough for me. K1000... not realy... However, I have seen many people who love their K1000. It is the perfect match for their needs.

 

If your problem is metering, do not get the K1000, do not get the FM2 either. Get a meter. If you are looking into SLRs for their virtues, you need to tell us more as to what you would like...

 

cheers!

This is an easy one for you to answer. Did you get he FMa3 for backup or for your prime body? How long do you plan to stay away from DSLRs? I am enjoying the use of AI(S) lences with my FM2n. AF lences are still changing especialy for DSLRs....

I like and use the 105 2.5 ais. First I got me a used (but realy nice) one and I liked it so much I got me a new one from B&H. 50mm is too close, too wide. 180mm is hard to hand hold (for portraits). I have not tried an 85mm prime, but my 80-200 zoom almost never sat on the short end. I found the 105 to give me just the right distance, easy to hand hold and keep the trash out of my backgrounds. The 2.5 ais is a gem.

The SB-15 (found used only -- <$50 on auctions) was made for the FE2 and FA2. I had the combo for 15 years and got great results. The SB15 is one of the most durable, compact, efficient and flexible flash I have come across. It offers the ability to bounce on a side wall, on the ceiling and on a back wall. You and twist it on the left or right of the lens. You can get macro shots with it on the hot-shoe (point it down). It offers TTL and 2 auto-settings. It also has a full manual mode and a 3 stops lighter manual mode (this one is for rapid photography -- motor drive, but it can be used for manual close ups, too). It covers 35 mm lens and it comes with a wide adapter (easy to be lost) for 28 mm lens. I replaced my FE-2 (got an FM-2 and a sony 717), but I did not sell my SB-15 (it is on the 717)! Biggest draw-back: Can not be found new.

 

Cheers.

In general refurbished refers to an item that failed to perform (at the store or within the waranty period) and it was repaired by the original maker to the original specification. Many times they carry the same warranty as the new items. Many feel that such units are better tested than the average "new" ones.

 

My take is that if it is refurbished I would consider it if, first, it is from a reputable store and manufacturer and, second, if I can see it (the cosmetics may not be "like new"). The $$$ savings may make the difference, too.

Andrew, what are you trying to get out of such question?

 

I'll agree with the many and say that if pros are using it (and it is a popular back up body) then the FMx is a pro camera. On the other hand many will argue that most pro bodies are build to higher standards and with bigger controls and with more accessories to satisfy the extreme conditions, rough handling and uncommon needs of pros.

 

Personally I do not care whether it is a "pro" body. I tried some "pro" bodies and they are so heavy and bulky and have so many futures and options that only distract from my love. That is to freeze a moment in an aesthetically pleasing way. The only expectation out of my equipment is to be reliable. The metal bodies of the FMx series are just that. I choose the FM2 over the FM3a because it forces me to think about the shutter speed and the flash settings. Not that you can not do so with the FM3a, but it is easy to learn the auto setting and forget it. Note: I am NOT a pro. If I were a pro I may have more needs and expectations from a camera body.

 

As about the titanium versions, yes they are better, but no they do not take better pictures, and yes they are very expensive. (So expensive that you may choose to leave them home most of the time -- depending on the financial status)

 

P.S. I had an FE2 body for 17 years and sold it as near mind. I expect no less than my new FM2n.

Al,

 

I'll assume you do not have a local store to handle some tripods. I recently when through the same ordeal but I had the luxury to handle several tripods locally.

 

Here are my findings:

 

Most Solid: (me leaning and twisting and tapping the legs)

Gitzo 1227 Carbon fiber

Hakuba 6230C

Slick 700DX & Hakuba 503MX (could not find at same store together)

Bogen 3021

Bogen 3001

 

You can search at B&H and get their dimensions, weight and cost.

 

Some of my conclusions:

 

The top three are much sturdier than the very popular Bogens. The Bogen popularity may indicate that unless you have heavy equipment too much sturdiness is not necessary.

 

Any of the above is a good buy.

If you are tall you will appreciate the Slik

If you are rich you will appreciate the Gitzo

If you are like me you will find the 503 on sale.

 

Hope this helps.

You do not need a Sony flash for your 717. The hot shoe is a plain (one contact) shoe. Any manual flash will work. Any automatic flash will work easier. Sample compact units: Sunpak 383, Vivitar 283 and 285HV listed in increasing physical size (same power). Note: My Sunpak has lost its manual power settings -- still works on Auto.

 

One warning: If you would like to use your new flash as optional slave (if you do not know what that means, stop reading here) you may wish to wait and purchase a vivitar D? 200 (sorry do not remember the exact letter next to D). It has a build in slave shoe that can be set to ignore preflash (due on sale this summer).

 

Hope this helps.

B&H as well as Adorama do not carry this any more (they now only

carry the replacement plates for it). Google search found only one

available and it was on E*bay from Europe.

 

I am in Austin Tx, but any reliable mail order store in the US will

do.

 

Thank you in advance.

May I recomend the Hakuba 530-CX with a fine pan head (no quick release though).

I have the 383 and the variable power stoped working (4 month old - minimal use). It outputs max at all settings. I did used rechargable NiMH cells on it, but my Nikon SB-15 had no problem with such cells... Someone else on the threads mentioned his variable output having stoped, too. My next unit will be the 285...

Tripod and head selection can be a religion for many serious photographers. Recently I finished a similar search. I visited my local shop and tried legsets and heads (set them up and take them down, leaned on them, tap the legs etc etc etc) and I read every single thread on this and other sites (or so it felt!)

 

I can tell you what I choose, but this will only reflect the solution to my needs.

 

What do you need on a tripod?

 

Here is a list of questions to ask yourself:

 

How tall are you and do you mind bending over?

 

How heavy may the legs/head be?

 

How big is your biggest lens today and in the future?

 

Do you plan on being using it a lot?

 

Do you need a ball head or is pan ok?

 

Do you like twist locks?

 

Do you like snap locks?

 

Do you travel? Does the folded size of the tripod matter?

 

Would you use it on ice (need spikes)?

 

I use medium/small lens, and do not mind bending (I am 6.2").

I do not need spikes and I like light weight. I like twist locks and prefer pan heads. My budget was $300 and got me the hakuba carbon fider (503 CX -- with head). I love it! I was very close to getting the slik 700DX with out the head (did not like it) and then adding a better pan (for a total of less that $200), but I loved the 503...

 

Hope this helps,

 

dimitri

I had the FE2 with the SB15 for 15 years. I moved to FM2n (going backwards :-) and sony717(digital). I still have the SB15 which is a GREAT small flash to have. VERY flexible if you wish to keep it on the hot shoe. However, it is not very strong (GN). If you take a lot of indoor pictures in large areas (large rooms, high ceilings etc) I would recommend looking in to SB16 (3 times the cost of the SB15). Sunpack has the 433 model for Nikon TTL ($89 new at B$H). It sits (in power) between the SB15 and SB16 for less than the SB15 (new)

 

dimitri

Your camera may be used with either filter.

There are general pros and cons but for your camera they come down to these:

 

The linear pol filter is cheaper and some may argue a bit better in cutting reflections.

 

The circilar pol filter has a better resale value as it can be used by all cameras. Of course this means that you may be able to use it longer in the future when you upgrade your slr...

 

dimitri

Hello,

 

I have an 105 2.5 AIS Nikkor that I bought about 16 months ago "new"

from B&H. The focus has become loose. How loose? Well if I set it to

infinity and hold the camera pointing down the focus will roll about

1/8" in about 15-20 seconds. The same if I set the lense to its close

focus and point the camera upward.

 

I know that grease is what gives these lences their viscosity and I

understand that with my lense the grease has gotten thin or has been

displaced. What I do not know is: Is this a problem I should fix

(CLA) because the helicoids will be harmed or it will not harm the

lens and if I can live with it I should leave it alone.

 

By the way the lens is in pristine condition, so it needs no cleaning

nor adjustment.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

dimitri

I'll add: Pipe insulation tape at your local hardware store (walmart?). Cost next to nothing. Comes with an adhesive side, too. You need to cut it for the desired width, though. Get a thick piece for the mirror and a thin for the seal. Used it several times!!!

I agree with mike. Be careful with your metering... I own an FE2 and I have no problem with either LP or CP on it.

 

Cheers :-)