dimitri_kalakanis3

<p>I had my FE2 rewind assembly fall apart. Was able to find all the parts and put it back together. Now I frequently tighten the assembly holding the inside fork fixed and turning from the outside. Good practice for all screws etc, too.</p>

<p>Both shutter and aperture sliders should move. You are not doing anything wrong. The user can not make them stuck. Do not force them. If they are stuck they need CLA. Search the archives here, several good folks still do the service.<br>

BTW Congrads on a wonderful camera!</p>

I have both a carbon fiber and a Berlebach. I like them both for their strengths. The Carbon fiber is easier to use and carry. The Berlebach is the one I reach for when shooting very long lenses or I am not in a rush. One additional note for Berlebach: (From personal experience) You can count of their service!

You are correct! You do not gain magnification at the same distance. You will simply be able to focus closer. Getting closer will increase your magnification. Not sure how close you can get, but extension tubes are stackable. Finally, yes, you loose autofocus (you do not need it) and if the tube is AI coupled you can meter exposure wide open.

Did not think about it before... I just checked... No foam on my folder(s) either... Still no problem!

Depends on the condition of your bellows... I have used delta 3200 in an ensign 820 folder with no light-leak issues.

Both are greate lenses. When comparing the f2.5 with the micro (should be 'macro') the micro is bigger, heavier and renders not as soft out of focus areas. The micro has a more 'clinical' look while the 2.5 has a more 'sweet' look. For still life and wild life I will reach for the micro, for people and pets I reach for my 2.5. If pure sharpness is what you are after, try the tokina 90mm (I think also f2.5). Ultra sharp, but backgrounds not as creamy as the 105mm 2.5. BTW, I currently own all three of these. The 105/2.5 is the only one I bought new and still is my prefered lense for handhold 35mm shooting.

Because I can honestly say that I am younger than my camera!

The later Autocords (citizen shutter) have an additional fresnel screen under the ground glass. On those, if the mirror is in good condition and you clean the lens/mirror/fresnel/ground-glass the image is very good. Not as bright as the Maxwell (I have tried two of those: One with split image and one with grid only) BUT it snaps into focus as easy (dare I say better?). As others have mentioned the autocord comes with a much brighter screen than the Rolleis do. The problem I have with Maxwell screens is that they project light straight up. If your eye is not directly above the center of the screen the brightness drops dramatically. Not a problem if you use a prism or while you focus with the magnifier. But it is a problem when you try to compose waist level and the image darkens on one or the other eye (as you move). Someone mentioned the Hasselblad's newer acute matte screen. Now those are nice. They are as bright as the maxwell and have a much wider angle of view. I can use both eyes on the entire screen and focus has a great snap. Problem is that they are a bit thick and a bit small to fit the autocord. I took one apart and made a plastic extension to fit the hooks/springs of my autocord. It is my favorite screen. Be very careful, the maxwell and the acute matte (once taken apart) are VERY easy to scratch. The original autocord is very durable.

No experience with the Mamiya, but, there are 2 issues for all TTL extensions.

 

First, ALL extension WILL drop the amount of light that reaches the film and your focusing screen. http://www.rit.edu/~swdpph/bef.html

 

Second, if this extension does not couple the aperture for TTL metering, then you need to set your lens wide open during focusing. If this extension does couple with the lens and moves the diaphragm automaticaly, you need to make sure the coupling mechanism works.

 

Hope this helps.

My digisix has been running for 2 months now with the factory battery... no problem, yet. I agree its interface is not the best, but, how else can one put all these futures on 2 buttons (exposure, time, stopwatch, temperature)?

What experience do you have with other formats? A big reason that pictures taken with medium format look so good is that the people who took them are not beginers. No camera nor film-format will make your images look good or bad for that matter.

 

Having said that, what type of photography do you do? Studio work has different needs than street work than sports photography etc.

 

I do not wish to come across as PITA, but medium format gear is large and heavy and expensive for the functionality it provides. Also, the expectation of great results is big. IF YOU ARE A BEGINNER: Get your self a low cost 35mm film SLR or even a simple rangefinder for $100. Shoot A LOT. Improve your vision and technique. Once you reach a good level and you wish to improve your gear come back and ask specificaly what aspect of your type of photography is lacking. Then, this forum can guide you with better gear suggestions. If you can afford a digital SLR, go for it. The instant feedback and the lack of guilt (for there is no film cost) will allow you to shoot alot and learn fast.

Paul, pm is send.

This must be the longest follow-up to a thread!

Holding on to my promise and directly from the instructions booklet and with the pictures showing the camera from the back:

 

<<

Page 10,

 

LOADING:

 

Turn knob 13 to the right until No 1 appears in the film window.

 

CARE! Turn locking lever 17 to the left. This engages the film transport interlock and the picture counting window will automatically show a 1 in place of the red-white signal.

 

The film is now ready for the first exposure and after setting the camera and cocking of the shutter, the first picture can be taken.

 

Do not forget: film transporter 13 has to be turned as far as it will go after each exposure, the picture counting window 1 will then show the following picture number.

 

CARE! The locking lever must not be moved between exposures otherwise the automatic counting device would be reset to number 1.

 

Page 11,

 

UNLOADING:

 

After the 12th exposure turn film transport knob again as far as it will go; the picture counting window will then show the red signal.

 

CARE! Now turn locking lever to the right and wind on the film until it is completely wound off on to the spool in the left chamber. The passing of the paper end of the film may be observed in the film window which should be opened.

 

Open camera back, pull up the film transport knob and fix it in this position, pull out spool carrier and remove film.

>>

 

 

Just in case it is not clear: Knob 13 is the winding knob and the little lever on the back of the camera is the locking lever 17

Lots of good opinions here. I just did the same jump and I will offer you my 2c:

 

You never used medium format before and you wish to drop 1K+ on a used camera you never held? Do not do it! Get a YashikaMat D with yashinon -or- a Minolta autocord (my favorite) for less than $100. Use it! Shoot some slides. Shoot some negatives and then get some prints or some scans. Is it for you? The cost and/or flow of work, from shooting to print will be different from your 35mm. And so will be the final output. Such experience will answer many of your questions about getting into medium format and about doing so with a Rolleiflex TLR: The size, weight, fixed lens, shooting style and quality of output (when compared to 35mm). Then, YOU will decide if extra lenses (macro, wide, tele) and better focusing worth the extra weight and cost of the 'blad. I did exactly this and the 'blad is coming with me everywhere I go, 'cause I value the focusing and macro style/capability of the system. My autocord though is my trusted backup and my first choice for long hikes.

 

BTW, the quality of the autocord at f11-f16 has no match. If you can shoot at f11-f16 look no further. If you shoot wide open then a planar will be a tad better.

 

One last thing: You should always be careful buying used, but be Very careful with used rolleiflex TLRs. It is a collectorsﾒ item, as well as, a scammersﾒ item. Search this site for bad experiences buying used Rolleiflex TLRs

You should do a search in the archives here and around the web. In short: No CRC, yes multicoating, fine build (I like its built more than the build of the AI version -- same performance though). If you like this focal length it is the best bang for your buck. You should also get the hood for it.

The problem you will have is that of 'condition'. These cameras are old and some have been altered (non-matching lenses) to improve apperance. Buy the best condition you can find, but with the choice to return after a test roll. If you plan to use it, include a CLA in your budget ($150).

Gary, there is no excuse for being rude. I say that to my kids every day!

 

Marko, there are many related responces here at pnet. Learn to use the search engine at the top right of the page. The stored info is one of the greatest strengths of pnet.

 

To contributed to the original question: I am with Lex, though the model I use is Gossen Luna pro F digital. Small, light, great ev range, regular AA batteries, and not too expensive (I have the old version without the rotating dome). Negative: The dome's lock-in-place mechanism is fragile. If I was buying now, I would go for one of the digisix models.

OK, I'll have to check my camera and/or the little manual I have (yes I do have one :-) but can I find it?)... stay tuned... check again within 24 hours...

From memory: Open the door. Flip the lever to the left (cover the little window). Put film in. Roll it till the arrows show up. Close the door. Using the red window roll it till frame 1 shows up. Flip the lever to the right. If the auto-counter and auto-lock work, you are in business...

(you do have to cock the shutter, too)

Bright screens are several times brighter but only a bit better at focusing. I checked my two Autocords, one with Maxwell and one with its old screen. The Maxwell is so much brighter and it feels like it should make focus a lot easier, but in practice, the focusing is only a lttle better. The dimmer the light the bigger the advandge to the bright screen. I have the grid type with plain center. For critical focus I would suggest the split center type. Just one final note: The maxwell sceen is very easy to scratch, have a pro install it for you.

Try hitting rangefinderforum now! Another site comes up!!!

Yeah, your best bet is to keep calling until he picks up. Sometimes posting here seems to help, as friends of his read the posts and let him know.

Sean is right. As many problems as paypal may have, if you used them to pay and submit a request to return the item for being missrepresented, you will get your money back. I got my $$ back (with shipping) when I send a rolleiflex back to the seller. It was marked near mint with perfect glass, but it had a chip on the taking lens and the focusing hood was all miss-aligned and parts where missing. When the seller got it back he send me an email asking if I abuse the camera. I filled with paypal and got my money back on the spot.

Here is a link to mine:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=258642&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation