Jump to content

guy bennett

Members
  • Posts

    146
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by guy bennett

  1. Sometimes form is content. A lot of Gibson's work, but particularly the "Quadrants" series, is formally driven, and the same is true of many "great" photographers, particulary from the modernist era (Kertesz, Hervé, Weston, etc.). Heck, even HCB was a bit of a "géomètre," to use his own phrase. In "The Decisive Moment" he writes: "If a photograph is to communicate its subject in all its intensity, the relationship of form must be rigorously established.... One does not add composition as though it were an afterthought superimposed on the basic subject material, since it is impossible to separate content from form. Composition must have its own inevitability about it."
  2. On not mixing B&W and color in a book...

     

    I tried to think of a book by a single photographer that did, and recalled R.

    Gibson's "Histoire de France." So I got out my copy and leafed through it - to my

    surprise, there were only color photos though I distinctly remember that he

    mixed both. Then I open my copy of his "Deux ex machina," flipped forward to the

    "Histoire de France" section, and low and behold: B&W and color images on facing

    pages.

     

    I think the two work beautifully in this case. If you've got the book, check it out.

    He characteristically presents his pix in conscientiously selected pairs, but adds

    to the mix by juxtaposing B&W and color, and they compliment each other quite

    well IMO.

  3. The recent post on "which Leica SLR?" -- with the SL getting all the accolades --

    prompted me to post this question. I usually use an M, but having heard all the

    hubbub about the SL, purchased one recently. I bought it with a second model

    Summicron 50, and am now looking into a longer lens. I'm as yet undecided

    between the 135/2.8 and the 180/2.8, and was wondering which one photo.net's

    estimed Leica SLR users would recommend. What are the pros and cons between

    the two other than size, weight, and cost? Anything I should think about/look

    for/avoid? I've seen a mint second model 135/2.8 for about US $490 - any

    thoughts on that price? Finally, in anticipation of the question: it depends on

    what you'd shoot with it: this would be a general purpose tele for me; I wouldn't

    be buying it for any specific type of usage.

  4. If you frequently work in low to very low light you should invest in

    a faster lens and shoot with faster film. I like to use a Noctilux

    and Fuji Neopan 1600 in such situations, and can shoot hand

    held in pretty dark environments. If Ilford's Delta 3200 still exists,

    you can use that and shoot in even less light. Rate it at 6400 and

    there's almost nothing you can't capture. <a

    href="http://www.shinozuka.org/20011031halloween/"

    >Here's</a> an example of such work by a photographer on the

    LUG. You might also consider the Summilux 50 and/or 35, and

    the CV Nokton 50 and/or 35.

  5. "I'm sorry, but one of the many definitions of "Art" is that it's a form of

    communication."

     

    Andrew,

     

    You are certainly right, but as you yourself acknowledge, that's only *one* of

    the defintions or functions of art. And even then, we've all had to learn how to

    communicate -- none of us were born speaking, reading, writing, etc. We had

    to work to master those skills.

     

    Also, it's good to note that Eggleston does not *need* to explain anything.

    (And to my knowledge, he never has.) Clearly, judging from the above, many

    people have no problem "understanding" his work without any commentary

    from him or anyone else. In this case, Jorge asked for help, he's the one who

    was unable to come to terms with Eggleston's work. Is his shortcoming

    Eggleston's fault? Put another way, if Jorge had posted his question in

    Spanish and I couldn't understand him because I don't speak Spanish, would

    that be my fault or his?

     

    It's always easier to blame someone else for our own lack of understanding

    than to consider that we may be responsible for our incomprehension of

    things we have never learned to understand. Reminds me of the following

    passage written by Picasso about people who couldn't understand Cubism:

     

    "The fact that for a long time Cubism has not been understood and that even

    today there are people who cannot see anything in it, means nothing. I do not

    read English, an English book is a blank book to me. This does not mean that

    the English language does not exist, so why should I blame anyone else but

    myself if I cannot understand what I know nothing about?"

  6. I truly love these types of discussions, because they demonstrate how deeply

    engrained our aesthetic expectations are, and how hard it can be for us to

    conceive that there are other possible approaches to artistic, or in our case

    photographic expression, that don't embody the principles that underlie what

    we have been taught to understand as "good" art or photography.

     

    Surely, if your understanding of photography is based Cartier-Bresson's or

    Salgado's, or any other major photojournalist's conception of photographic

    work (I hesitate to say "art," given that this is a Leica list), somebody like

    Eggleston is going to make no sense because his work in no way reflects the

    priorities or assumptions on which photojournalism is based.

     

    If, on the other hand, you are willing to accept - and here I'm being kind,

    because whether we accept it or not, the world is full of different peoples and

    cultures whose aesthetic practices and the assumptions on which they are

    based differ greatly from and do not need to be validated by one another - that

    there are different conceptions of photography, none more inherently

    "important" or "natural" than the others, then work like Eggleston's, Parr's,

    Gibsons, Plossu's, etc., pose no problems whatsoever because you are less

    inclined to judge them according to the criteria of HCB's or Salgado's or

    WES's work, which are no better or worse, just different. (BTW, seen from the

    other side, i.e. working from the assumptions that underlie Eggleston's work -

    exploration of color, texture, "unusual" composition, denial of a central

    "important" event, preoccupation with the mundane, the "insignificant" [which

    is itself a loaded term, in that it implies a "universally" posited understanding

    of what is "significant"], i.e. an almost point-for-point rejection of "decisive

    moment" photography - HCB's work is all wrong, because it doesn't do any of

    the things Eggleston's does.)

     

    Should we criticize Mondrian or Malevich because they don't paint like

    Vermeer or Repin? Should we dismiss Webern's music because it doesn't

    work like Mozart's? Should we look down on Asian or Islamic art because it

    doesn't conform to traditional Western aesthetic models or practices? Do I

    even need to answer these questions?

     

    If Eggleston's work makes no sense to you, can you say why? Can you note

    down all of the things he's doing "wrong" and/or what he could do to make

    better pictures? That list should show pretty clearly where your assumptions

    lie. Now, if you can imagine that other people might not share those

    assumptions, and that there is no reason that they should, then perhaps you

    could look at Eggleston's work again and try to see it for itself, and appreciate

    - or not - what it has to offer, on its own terms, and not according to other

    criteria.

     

    Then it might be easier for you to see what other people see in his work.

  7. I'm probably alone on this but frankly couldn't care less about a digital Leica M.

     

    I just can't see spending what I imagine will be so much for a camera that will

    most likely be so limited compared to its competitors and that will undoubtedly

    be superceded so quickly.

     

    And then having to buy another one 2-3 years later when the required memory

    cards are no longer available, or the sensors can't be repaired, or...

  8. On the subject of b&w papers, about a year ago I decided to experiment and see

    what was available in terms of VC FB papers, addition to the Ilford products I

    generally used. Going to a local photo shop (Freestyle in Hollywood, CA), I found a

    pretty remarkable variety of papers, some of which put the Ilford papers to

    shame, IMO. The nicer ones included products made by Oriental (A. Adams' brand

    of choice), Forte (a Hungarian company producing beautiful papers in a factory

    set up by Kodak in the 1940s), Cachet (whose "Multibrom" is one of the few

    bromide papers available, and is one of the coldest tone papers I've ever used),

    and Luminos, and these are only the *nicer* ones. There a many, many more

    brands currently available, and most of them are producing a variety of papers

    (FB, RC, and various "textured" "artistic" papers) and finishes (glossy, matte,

    semi-matte, etc.), all for prices comparable to or less expensive than the Ilford

    papers. (And we're talking professional quality papers here.) I should mention

    that Freestyle also carries an equally surprising array of toners, and darkroom

    chemicals and equipment, so many more than one would ever expect in this

    "ever'bodies goin' digital" age. I can't recommend them highly enough if you're

    into darkroom (especially b&w darkroom) work. But don't think it stops there:

    they also sell a pretty broad range of printers and papers for the film impaired

    photogs among us ;) And you don't need to live in Hollywood to shop there (and

    thank god for that). You can check 'em out on the web at <a

    href="http://www.photo.net/photo/guide-to-links-on-photonet.html"

    >www.freestylephoto.biz</a>, or call and request a catalogue and order by

    phone. They ship all over the states; don't know if they do so internationally.

    (BTW, don't work for the company, satisfied customer, blablabla.)

     

    It would be unfortunate if Ilford - or any other company producing film products -

    were to disappear, but if they do, I won't be worried about finding other high

    quality products - they're out there, and, though it sounds surprising, new

    analogue materials are coming out all the time.

  9. Had both the Leica 24 and the C/V 25. Use the former on a M6, used the latter

    on a IIIf. Kept the former, sold the latter. Why?

     

    Kept the former because it's an absolutely stunning lens in every respect. One of

    the better, if not the best Leica lens I use.

     

    Sold the latter mainly because, 1) it wasn't rangefinder coupled, and I wanted to

    be able to focus on close subjects, 2) VF didn't have brightlines and was very

    "approximate" with respect with what you saw in the finder as opposed to what

    you got on film, 3) the C/V 21 had come out and solved both of the problems I

    had with the 25.

     

    As for quality: IME the C/V 25 build and image quality is ok. Not as nice in either

    area as the 28/3.5, but certainly not bad for a $250-$300 lens. The 24 Elmarit

    on the other hand is of very high build quality and produces incredible results. It

    also costs $2000.

     

    Which one should you get, if that is indeed your question? IMO, depends on 1) how

    important the focal length is to you and, 2) how much you're willing to spend in

    order to achieve the results you want.

     

    If you have never used the 24-25 focal length and aren't sure you'll like it, or

    only rarely use it, go for the C/V. If you want you can always upgrade to the

    Leica later. If you favor that focal length and want images of the highest

    technical quality (the aesthetics, of course, are up to you), definitely get the

    Leica.

  10. This <a href="http://www.ozdoba.net/leica/schraub_altezeit_e.html"

    >page</a> from Christoph Ozdoba's site devoted to Leica screw mount cameras

    gives a pretty thorough discussion of the "European" apertures and shutter

    stops and workarounds for them.

     

    For my part, being extremely unmathematical, I simply adjust apertures slightly

    in order to approximate modern aperture/shutter speed combinations. I.e. if the

    correct exposure is 1/125 at f/5.6, I'll set my IIIf at 1/100 and f/5.6-f/8. This

    is very easy to do and, surprisingly perhaps, gives consistently good results.

  11. APX 400 is my standard b&w film. It's got a silver rich emulsion that gives it a

    broad tonal range. I develop it in Xtol 1:3, which creates a beautiful, "soft" grain

    that looks great in 8 x 12 prints.

  12. "The moment they replace film for some digital insert with choices of b/w grain

    type I can put in my m2, AND then in my enlarger, i'll reconsider."

     

    Interestingly enough, I recently heard of a company that manufactures an

    enlarger that comes with software that will transform your digital image into a

    negative. You can then print it on photographic paper using traditional

    darkroom techniques.

  13. None, at least not for now. I still enjoy the workflow of the analogue process, and

    am more and more excited about working in a traditional darkroom. Though it

    may sound crazy, I'm actually thinking of buying chemicals in order to mix my

    own developers, toners, etc., and have been doing a lot of reading about this

    lately.

     

    I'll be curious to see the digital M, whenever it comes out, but do not plan on

    buying one. My guess is that it will be very expensive, functionally limited

    compared to the Nikon and Canon DSLRs of two years from now, and superceded

    shortly after its release, like the D1.

  14. Jeff:

     

    I'm not "against" digital photography, just uninterested in it. I mentioned that I

    use computers for the reason Christopher states: people frequently assume

    that if you're not interested in digital it's because you don't know how or refuse

    to use a computer, which is not my case.

     

    FWIW, I'm not a programmer or software developer, and I actually do scan prints

    and negatives, then photoshop them and prepare them for output as halftone

    images to appear in books and magazines. Though I'm no Photoshop wizard, I

    know the routine and have been using it for several years. I simply have no desire

    to go that route in my personal work in photography.

  15. Gotta say that I'm totally uninterested in the various flavors of digital M (or any

    other) mount cameras - be they made by Epson, Leica, or whoever.

     

    I'm still shooting (b&w) film, processing it myself, printing on FB paper, etc., and

    the thought of printing images from a computer leaves me, well, indifferent.

     

    I'm far from a technophobe, and actually use computers everyday in my paying

    work.

     

    I'm just not the slightest bit interested in digital photography.

  16. I just got the 90mm lens for my Xpan II. When this lens is mounted, the

    rangefinder patch is not in the center of the framelines. It appears above and

    slightly left of the center of the field delineated by the framelines. Is this

    normal?

     

    In comparison, the rangefinder patch appears in the center of the 45mm

    framelines.

     

    I'm puzzled.

×
×
  • Create New...