olivier_de_lame
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Posts posted by olivier_de_lame
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I have bought the 50mm 1.4 almost only due to this. It is much faster, but still not the best I could expect. Why can't Canon build a very good 50mm lense is a question for me.
Regards,
Olivier
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My wish: a simple 50mm 1.4 L, of very good quality. (I have the existing 50mm 1.4, good quality but no comparison to 135mm L2 e.g.)
Regards,
Olivier
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Well, I think the best solution is what Minolta did: put stabilization on the body.
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
What I see in the first photo might be due to the flash. Anyhow I use film, and I do not see such a vignettering even at f1.4 . So with a crop factor of 1.6 I would not expect to see any problem.
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
I do not have an answer, but another related question: 15mm f2.8 Canon fisheye has a Rear Gel Holder; it is possible to (or would it thinkable to) put a polarizing filter in the REAR of the lens?
What would the effect be?
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
I have 135/2L, but I do not have (and do not like) zoom. The big advantage of 135/2L is that you can use it at F2 and get a very sharp photo. with 70-200/4L I assume you would need to go to F 4.5 or F5.6 to get the same sharpness, but than you won't have a much larger DOF.
I use F2 mainly to get this DOF.
I am not sure to understand why you envisage the 300/4L: only for posed outside model, I am not sure how you can use it for portrait.
Notice that 135mm is already quite long for portrait.
So you should see if you need F2.
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
I have a 135 2.0 L, and I definitively can say it does not show the problem you have (I use film so I would have it worse than you have). I am surprised you saw it in TWO lenses, but anyhow I would not hold this lens if it was so bad.
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
1) I have 135mm 2L and I use film (that is full frame). Such a problem would be huge in full frame. I do not have such a problem.
2) Using recomposition for testing the lens is problematic in itself. The problem is that the distance from the film (sensor) plane to the object is changed when you use recomposition. At 135mm @ F2, such a small difference is enough to create a bad focussing.
Regards,
Olivier
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As far as I know 10D does not take the new lenses (EF-S). This might be important for you.
Regards,
Olivier
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One vote for 135 F 2.0 L . The sharpest of my lenses (but I have 'only' 24mm, 50mm and 135mm + a zoom)
My 50mm F1.4 is very sharp; quite sharp @ 1.4 . @ 2.0 it seems to me to be sharper than my 50mm F 1.8 Mark I .
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
I try ALWAYS to get the items I buy in E... via USPS. Why? because as they work with the post offices here in Israel, I have much less problems with the customs: their documents are accepted as official documents here. I never had a problem, but it does not mean I would have had a problem with other carries.
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
I am not sure about this but I believe it will NOT work with SCA 301. It will work (I think) with the SCA 311 and I am practically sure it will work with SCA 312/AF or SCA 312/2-AF. I have had both SCA 312/AF and SCA 312/2-AF and both worked with Metz 45 CT and Elan 7.
To get a better answer, ask http://www.metz.de/ -> english -> Photo electronics -> Contact: Support Metz Photo Electronics / Mecablitz
Email.
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
Question has been asken more than the number of Canon 1.8 lenses available. Yet I have something to add.
1) I do not have had the 1.8 Mark II: I have 1.8 Mark I and 1.4 . I bought the 1.4 because I felt the AF speed of 1.8 Mark I is too slow. Apparently the AF of Mark II is slightly faster.
2) I also read sometimes about 1.4 not being sharp @ f1.4 . Of course it is not as sharp than @ f8, but @ f2 I could not see a difference vs. 1.8 Mark I . Even @ f1.4 it is quite acceptable, but it is sometimes difficult to insure a good focus @ f1.4 (I do people photography, and I use f 1.4 when there is not enough light only).
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
I do not have big experience with this problem, but I would think about some other lighting equipement: see in the lighting forum and if needed ask a question there.
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
Before going to buy a new camera :-); I have an Elan 7 and it happens often to me.
1) When you recompose, you have to correct the focus: the distance between the film plane and your subject has changed.
2) To get good candids, in general you do not have time to recompose: you have to take the photo just when you get the focus.
3) To use manual focus, I focus on an object, and I wait that my subject move to this distance to take the photo.
4) As a previous answer said, you should consider to step down, to increase your depth of focus.
Regards,
Olivier
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If you have a 135/2L, almost everybody will approve you when you buy a 100/2.8 Macro.
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
The bigest difference is whether the Bar-Mitzwa is on a Saterday or a Jewish Hollyday (e.g. Shavuoth) or on a week day. In the first case you won't be allowed to take photography at all (sorry, it does not matter if you are Jewish or not) in the last case photo should be allowed flash perhaps. In any cases you should speak with the rabbi. He will also be able to answer your other questions.
The length of the service is also dependant on the day, but for a week day (no Saterday nor Hollyday (where in any case you won't be allowed to take photo at all)) it takes more of less one hour. The highlight is of course when the Bar-Mitzwa goes to read to the Torah, but also in some case when he reads a text he has prepared after the Torah has been put in place.
About the presence of women near the Bar-Mitzwa (as one previous answer pointed), there are some difference following the rabbi. In general women will not come very close to where the Torah is read (here also there are some interpretation). But the separation between men and women is not always so strict. Here also you should speak with the rabbi.
In fact it is quite similar as photos in a church: you have to speak beforehand with the rabbi, just as you would speak with the Priest before taking photos in a church.
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
Contrarily to a previous answer, from my experience (I bought only lenses on grey marked, but I assume it is the same as for a camera), when you buy on grey marked you get a warranty from the supplier (e.g. B&H). I think before going to this, I would send a mail to B&H, explaining your concern and asking if they have a solution.
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
This is the plate where the contacts are: the part that goes inside the handle of the flash. I remember it was very easy to dismantle it; if I remember well it is simply clipped and with a screwdrawer you can remove it carefully.
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
I have done it once. Notice I am not responsible for the consequences of course.
I removed the back plastic plate of the NiCa carefully. Then I had to remove two screws and un-solder the connections. From then the rest is pretty straigtforward.
Notice I replaced the battery of 50mAh with much higher capacity without problem.
Regards, (and take care)
Olivier.
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Hi,
I have five lenses (sorted by buying dates):
28-90mm f4-5.6 USM
50mm f1.8
135mm f2 L USM
24 mm f2.8
50mm f1.4 USM
Sorted by (what I feel to be) AF speed:
28-90 f4.5.6 USM
135mm f2 L USM
50mm f1.4 USM
24mm f2.8
50mm f1.8 Mark I
My explanation:
28-90 is so light, it is really easy to go fast with it.
135 is heavy, but has f2 and a ring USM
50mm 1.4 is not so heavy but has only a micro USM and uses linear extension
24mm is actually quite fast, because it is light and has internal (rear) focusing. However it has only an afd motor.
50mm 1.8 is quite slow, because although it is light, it uses linear extension focusing, and has only a micro motor.
In fact the explanation is not really important. The fact is that 50mm 1.4 is a good lens, with a good building quality, and a quite fast AF. However both the AF and the building quality is not what should be expected from the "Normal" lens that is the Canon reference. Enough for me, but to be honest, I would expect Canon to anounce a new 50mm (f 1.4 ?, f 1.0?) with both a good fast ring USM (applicable to ETTL-II) and a better building quality.
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
You will probably get lots of answers in the two directions. I have EF 135 f/2 L USM, and I am very satisfied with it.
+ for 100 mm:
+ If you want to take a full portrait (that is from feet till head) you need to be "only" 5.55 m from the subject (18.5 ft); inside it can make a difference (135mm -> 7.5 m ~ 25 ft)
+ cheaper
+ for 135mm:
+ Slightly beter optic
+ Higher magnification: closest focusing distance is 0.9m (3 ft): same as 100mm for a longer focal distance (in practice that means you can take closer close-up).
+ Compatible with EF extenders.
Regards,
Olivier
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Hi,
I have had 50mm 1.8 mark I for a while (I still have it); a very good lens but I have recently bought the 50mm 1.4 USM, because of the USM. The optical performance of MY 50mm 1.4 USM is slightly better that this of MY 50mm 1.8 mark I; from the comments I see all the time, it seems that for both lenses there is a big variation between lenses of the same type. For instance I did not see barrel distorsion (but I do not do macro).
Regards,
Olivier.
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Hi,
I cannot do a full translation, but here are the main differences with respect with EOS 1D (I):
- 8.2 Megapixels
- Up to 8.5 frames/second for the new buffer of 40 Jpeg frames or 20 RAW frames
- New processor New white balance (ultra-precise)
- 2 slots for CF and SD
- 50 to 3200 ISO (in fact 100 to 1600, but with possibility to go to 50 and 3200 trough CF (??))
- New E-TTL (They call this E-TTL II); will work with EX
- LCD screen of 230000 pixels.
- CMOS sensor.
- Much more expensive :-) (Did you expect the opposite ?)
Regards,
Olivier
Flash and 5 month old baby
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
I would simply avoid using a flash on a baby less than one year; I am not a specialist, and I am not sure that an ophthalmologist would really know what is the effect of a very short but very powerfull light on these sensitive eyes.
I am sure that black eyes are less sensitive than blue (or green) eyes, and the color of the eyes (at least for hazel eyes e.g.) changes during the first years of the baby.
So my rule (not educated at all) is: no flash before the color of the eyes is stabilized.
Regards,
Olivier