terry_spade

<p>http://www.missaniela.com/</p>

<p>Her flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndybisz/</p>

<p>The book Light Science and Magic is a good place to start. There is a flickr group inspired by the techniques of this book.<br /><br /> <br /><br /></p>

<p>I don’t use Elements 6 software, so I’m not sure. I always post this method because it can be used in most versions of photoshop.<br /><br /></p>

<p>The photo looked pretty good to me as well. I am a one trick pony when it comes to fixing photos that are a bit too contrasty. I made a copy of the background layer. Now to the top layer I go to image, adjustments, desaturate, then control I to invert the top layer. This gives it a black and white negative look. I then add a little gaussian blur 4 pixels in this case. Change the top layer to soft light, and moved the opacity slider to 45%. Done. <br /><br />What this does is reverse the tonal range in the photo, dark goes light and light goes dark. <br /><br /></p><div></div>

<p>I shoot 2 stops below ambient light with camera on full manual mode and leave the flash on ettl.<br /><br />There is a short article in Shutterbug July issue, the author sets his camera to aperture-priority and sets his built in flash to full, -1, or -2 compensation. He explains it better than I do.</p>

<p>Duplicate layer, desaturate top layer, invert top layer, set top layer to soft light blend mode. This is at 100%, but adjust to your taste.</p><div></div>

<p>Start here</p>

<p>http://www.studiolighting.net/digital-photography-one-on-one-e010-light-ratios/</p>

<p>I copied the red channel, pasted it as a layer, reduced opacity to 40%.</p><div></div>

<p>Convert to grayscale<br /> Duplicate layer<br /> Invert top layer<br /> Gaussian blur .9 pixel; But a larger file will need a higher pixel number to achieve the same level of blur.<br /> Set top layer to soft light<br /> Levels adjustment I brought in the end points</p><div></div>

<p>In landscape photography, prime high quality lenses are as important as the camera body, if not more important.</p>

<p>On camera or bracket, flash for fill. Under expose ambient light one to two stops. Camera in manual mode, flash ttl mode.</p>

<p>I think photoshop Elements has the level tool. It often comes with many scanners and printers, so you might already have the program around. If not, it's fairly easy on the pocket book.<br>

Love the shot by the way.</p>

<p>Simple levels adjustment in photoshop. I brought in the end points in each channel.</p><div></div>

<p>I have no idea what a Zebra 320 strobe is. But This guy might.</p>

<p>http://flashzebra.com/</p>

<p>For the Photoflex XT2MLD293 litedome Q39 24 x 32 inch medium I use this, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001ZMGYM/ref=ox_ya_os_product with this, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009UT1W/ref=ox_ya_os_product When set up right it works pretty good. I use this with a Canon 580 EXII.</p>

<h1 ><br /> </h1>

<p>http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&articleID=946</p>

<p>My effort,<br>

Selective color with reds selected, black -30, yellow +25, magenta -20.<br>

With yellow selected, black +100. I also masked the flower and her mouth.</p><div></div>

<p>Probably not what you had in mind. But I shot this old train tunnel with 3 580EXII speedlites with the built in 14mm wide panel dropped down, at full power. 1 Vivitar 283 at full power. All fired by skyports. Used a Brinkman portable spot light to help with focus. Cannon 5D, EF 24-105mm lens at 28mm f4 1/30.</p><div></div>

<p>http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/ex_speedlites.html</p>

<p>How about the 480EXII? The new Pocket wizard FlexTT5 or radio poppers are brand specific. So keeping everything Canon will give you more flexibility in the future. IMO <br /> <br /> </p>

<p>Well there goes this years tax refund.<br>

I was just considering going from skyports to pocket wizards, anyway.</p>

 

<p>1. M<br>

2. M<br>

3. M<br>

I find I am using manual mode more and more in all of my photography. I get a few? more keepers in manual mode. :}</p>

<p>You need to use 2 or more off camera flashes, with diffusers to spread the light. They should have adjustable power settings, full power, half power, etc like the 580 EXII. Set your camera to properly expose the window outdoor lighting, and light the room with the flashes.</p>

<p>It is better explained here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-balancing-flash-and.html</p>

<p>Same here. Camera backpack stuffed, 5D with 24-105 f/4, my walking around lens, 100mm2.8 macro, 200mm2.8L prime, 1.4 and 2.0 telextenders, MR-14EX macro flash, Speedlite 580EX II flash, Etc. <br /> <br /> Even if I pulled out the 200mm prime, the 70-200 f/2.8L IS lens won’t fit. I’m thinking of maybe getting the Digital Holster 30 from Think Tank photo. Putting the 5D and 70-200 f/2.8L IS lens in the holster. Taking the 200mm prime out of the main camera bag, and putting in the 24-105 f/4, would still free up room for other accessories. I would have quicker access to the 5D and 70-200 f/2.8L IS lens. I would have more accessories with me in the field And I have never been in a hurry to get a wide angle shot.<br /> <br /> But I’ll wait and read all the answers you get here. Before I make up my mind. ;-)</p>

I second the Elinchrom Skyports, they are a pro grade system, and they have never misfired for me. I just plug the transmitter into my sekonic meter and use it in cord mode during setup. Then put the transmitter on the camera take a few test shots, adjust camera or strobe settings to suite me and I'm good to go.