gwilburn

I just purchased my first-ever Nikon -- an F3HP (based on responses to a similar question to yours). I can't comment on any of the other models, but I can say I really like the heft and feel of this model, and the way it handles. I love the easy-to-see VF and the 100% framing of the VF. The camera is not quite as large and heavy as I expected it to be (having once used a friend's Nikon F) and the MD4 balances the rig nicely for longer lenses. It was a toss-up for me between this body and the FM3a. I think either would have been an excellent choice. No regrets on the F3HP though -- it's got all the 'right stuff' for my type of photography. (I rarely use flash so that's not an issue for me)

Ah, your answer came while I was typing. Thank you!

Does he work for Harry's Pro Shop? If not, how does one contact him?

I use one and it can stay on the lens or the body. If you depress the lens release on the Canon body, the lens and adapter come off together. Or, you can remove the Zuiko lens as you would on an OM body and replace it with another Zuiko lens.

 

I've not seen any cheaper ones, but the Kindai one is well made and if you have a few Zuiko lenses, it pays for itself fairly quickly.

<i>Would I be a stupid moron if I bought a Voigtlander Bessa R?</i>

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Of course not. It's quite a nice camera, and modern too. You may find it's all you ever want or need. Or you can move up to a Leica later.

It would be difficult to find a better starter RF kit than a brand new Bessa R with 35mm f/2.5 lens, on sale for $399 US at www.cameraquest.com

 

The modern built-in metering, and the swing-back film loading make it an easy camera to adjust to. That lens is a very good one.

 

Gene

Tri-X always looks good develooped in D-76. Since the new emulsion (400TX) has been released, I like the look I'm getting with Rodinal 1:50. Gorgeously grainy, but not overly-grainy (for my taste).

 

Gene

No one knows how this will play out in the next few years. We're starting to see the squeeze -- Agfa folding, Ilford almost folding, Kodak with massive layoffs. Film sales have plummeted. As the market for film shrinks, there may only be enough film users left to support a single large manufacturer (and perhaps a few small manufacturers). Ilford seems the most dedicated so I'm considering switching to Ilford films for most of my B&W shooting.

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<<Look at the profusion of digital photographs on today's photography bulletin boards. There are thousands of cats, millions of flowers and sunsets. Digital cameras allow us to shoot volumes of photographs at no cost with no waiting. They make it easy to produce photographs that could put a cup of coffee to sleep.>>

 

I think this misses the point. People take these pictures because this is what matters to them. I see it as a positive. Bear in mind they don't aspire to be serious photographers any more now than they did with their Instamatics, Polaroids and 35mm P&S cams. They're learning photography and they're excited about the results. Isn't that how we all started?

 

If you look at the work of 'serious' and talented photographers who shoot digital, you see images every bit as good as we take with classic gear.

 

It's the photographer, not the equipment ...

 

Gene

Wasn't there some kind of tripod gizmo you could get for these that would allow you to focus on a closeup image with the viewing lens, then crank up a lever to replace the viewing lens with the taking lens?

 

Gene

I've owned a Zorki 4K, Fed 2, and Zorki 3M. The 3M was the one I kept. I like it so much I sent it Oleg for a CLA. He replaced the shutter curtains and it should be good to go for another 30 years.

 

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James, when you fill out the customs sticker for outgoing, write 'Repair' and $0 value. Camtech does something similar on the way back. The most you'll pay is $5 handling by Canada Post.

 

Gene

James, I live in the Toronto area but sent my OM-1 to Camtech for overhaul. It's not that scary to ship the camera, and you'll get a first-rate repair.

 

Gene

What I'd like to see are advances in scanners. There are some good ones, but there is room for improvement and I'd really like to see a Raw scanning standard for 'digital negatives' similar to Adobe's DNG format so you could take a Raw scan directly into Photoshop or a similar editor.

 

Gene

I use the Kindai adapter as well -- and that's the one <a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/">Cameraquest</a> sells (I confirmed with Stephen Gandy). The Zuiko 90mm/2 macro lens works great on my Digital Rebel body.

Thanks for the replies! It gives me some ballpark figures and some ideas on diluting HC-110.

 

Gene

I find the odd ratios of HC-110 (1:32 or 1:64) difficult to measure

accurately even with a baby's medical syringe. Has anyone worked out

times/temps for a common film like Tri-X with HC-110 at 1:50 or 1:100.

I read the thread on stand development but I'm looking for normal dev

times.

 

Gene

The best scissors I've used for cutting negs is barber's shears. Very narrow and thin -- you can see what you're cutting.

Hmmmm. Did that myself just this afternoon. Ran the entire roll through and wondered why my film unravelled when I took it out. The sealing tape was on the 'wrong' side LOL! Still getting used to loading the A12 back for a 'Blad 500CM. Loading my Rolleiflex is more straightforward ... :-)

The Visual Quickstart series does not explore topics in depth, but the Photoshop book is remarkably useful. Despite using Photoshop for some time, I learned a lot from this book. The bad review was likely from someone who expected depth rather than breadth.

I'm not anti-digital, but I did sell my Canon 300D DSLR and all the lenses I'd acquired. In its place I purchased a Panasonic Lumix FZ20 to maintain the convenience of digital, and a used Hasselblad 500CM for MF B&W. I'm still shooting a lot of film using a pair of Olympus OM-1 SLR's and a small collection of RF's that I highly enjoy using: Olympus 35RC, Zorki 3M, Bessa R, and Iskra.

You can use dilution H (1+63) to double the time for dil B. Makes it a bit easier to control the process IMO.

I find any 400 film I develop in Rodinal is distinctly grainy, but I like the look for certain subjects. Tri-X (new) looks particularly nice developed in Rodinal 1:50. Also like the looks of Neopan 400. HP5+ and Rodinal is not as good a combo for me -- extremely grainy. I use a scanner -- a darkroom person may have a different take on this combo.

Andrew, that would be really cool to see! Does she have any of the images on the web for viewing?