ci_p

I also bought a Tamron 200-400mm Af Zoom - too slow AF & rubbish MF. Dumped it & got a Sigma 50-500 (aarrrrg!) eventually got smart & got afs lenses.

 

Peleng 8mm USSR / e european fisheye - too much flare.

 

Nikkor f1.4 AFD Expensive (~270ukp) lens / heavy glass / really plastic body - fell apart - literally.

I'll bet that cat is really cheesed off you cut it's tail off

All of them. There are lots of things there from graveyard cats to underground skeleton collections. Take your film with you because that way you don't have to talk so much to french people who can be rude to americans, sometimes, even if they have expensive photographic equipment. Same goes for d&p, especially if your photos are not very good.

 

If you are on a coach and keeping some glass between you and france, remember to clean the window before you get on, and put the lens up against the window when taking shots to reduce reflections.

Bad things...

 

 

The FM3a has the door lock removed, so you just have to pull up the rewind arm to open the back. I found this out the hard way, by dropping the camera & having the back pop open. I didn't care about the camera, but was *really* pizzed at loosing my photos.

 

The exposure compensation dial is really inconvenient. In fact is mostly a waste of space.

 

The light meter does not work in the dark! Rather, you can't see it in the dark. I found this out the hard way when using a 8mm fisheye, and could not see the light meter *at all*.

 

The camera is basically the same as a Ricoh KR-10, one of which I was able to pick up on ebay for 30USD.

Mine mostly works fine, only I've found the game pad & the display thing but I can't get space invaders to start.

I have the tamron lens. I think it is great, but there are some issues when trying to use what is a macro lens for normal shooting.

 

It's not that it hunts much, but when it does, you can go and have a cofe while the lens moves to 1:1 and back. Focus limiter helps.

 

If using MF only a smal movement of the focusing ring makes for a large change in focus distance at "normal" shooting distances.

 

I paid 329ukp for mine, but I think it is about 290 now. With the above two caveats, I think it is the bisness. I also second the suggestion for 50mm f1.8 lens. It is good two.

Ignore all that. I was spouting about the 8mm lens, and not reading the question.

Hi, you might damage your D100. I had one of these lenses and I had a problem with the mirror hitting the back of the lens on F100 & FM cameras. You might want to remove the screw on rear uv filter.

 

You might also want to get a better lens. My one had severe flare problems.

Try holdoing the the camera in a vertical orientation so your noze is to the left of the camera and you're lokoing through the viewfinder with your right eye. Then rotate everything back to a horizontal direction.

It is probably a problem with all the fiddly cog stuff in the back. I took one of these apart once, but could never get it back together properly.

I DEMAND !!

http://www.rollei.de/en/produkte/produkt_detail.cfm?id=2011&name=medium

 

 

This is a photo of the back & adaptor. The back is the square boxy thing and the adaptor is the large bit with the small circular red button.

 

 

Before mounting the adaptor onto the camera, you have to remove the small clip on thing in the back of the camera body which has the two rollers (it is needed for normal 6x6 120 / 220 backs)

 

 

Subsequently, you can pull/push the back into/outof the adaptor to change orientation/backs.

 

 

There is also some square flat thingy which can go in the viewfinder to help in composition, but I can't be doing with that.

Once, when my tame monkey was developing some of his 5x4 format B&W, he switched the lights on after he took the film out of the stop, but before they went into the fix, and they fogged. He figures that the stop didn't really *stop*, and the development was still going.