hannu

Thanks for the information, all!

Hi,

 

came across a cute little lens in the junk box of a shop, and as it

was only $3 decided to get it, if for nothing else than a decorative

item. Now I'm wondering what exactly it is, as the 'net did not give

me any information so far.

 

It has a thread mount. From front to back it measures about 2 in, the

front has a filter thread of about an inch, and the mount diameter is

about half an inch. All measures approximate because I seem to have

misplaced my slide caliper (blush).

 

Aperture markings go from f3.5 to f20, focusing markings from inf to 1

(meter, I suppose). In the front, inside the filter thread it reads

the following: "BERTHIOT PARIS CINOR 1:3.5 F=50 Bt'e" and the serial

number.

 

What is it exactly? I suppose it's worth about what I paid for it, but

it'd be interesting to learn a bit.

<p>Oh my...

 

<p> reminds me how I saw a while ago in the metro a guy carrying a huge golden expensive-looking camera box, with a barely contained owner's pride shining on his face. Too bad the camera featured on the box top looked very much like <a href="http://www.ouyama.com/cd/owa/siw_main.display_map?pi_org_id=8800010590&in_current_page=larger&template_id=3&prod_id=1000264332&enable_button=1">this one</a>...

> I am pretty sure (have not confirmed this yet) that these apendages

> can be chopped and the chipped circuit will still function.

 

According to a mail I gor from Mr. Rorslett on the matter, the distance strip can usually be cut but the focal length strip may or may not be of importance. Some chips don't function any more if you remove it.

<p>I'm glad I didn't find <i>that</i> when I opened up a 60-180 IX for chipping an extension ring. Its chip was already large enough with the focus distance and focal length strips, and a pain to fit inside a 20mm ring.

you wrote:

 

> Ross, I am am quite familiar with Bjorn Rorslett's site. My

> question was quite specific. Thanks anyway.

 

...and Bjorn has a specific answer in his IX-Nikkor 24-70 review... (ok it's not about D70 but D100, electronically shouldn't make much difference)

 

"A very cheap alternative from the Nikon Pronea (APS format) era, this petite lens can be attached to D1-series and D100 cameras as well. You only need to cut off the rear protruding flange of the lens to avoid the reflex mirror being jammed on these cameras. Since lens construction basically comprise plastics and sticky tape (!), the adaptation can be performed in a few minutes.

 

After some haggling, I obtained my sample for free from the odds-and-ends bin of my photo store. I then went on to prove it could be used on my D1X, before it ended its life when I extracted its matrix chip for a better purpose."

Still quoting technikdirekt prices, both TC-14E II and TC-20E II are listed at 532e. So for 5200 euros you'd get a 200/2, 280/2.8, and 400/4 -- with VR! -- while the 300/2.8 AF-S II is 5296 euros by itself.

 

If the teleconverters work well -- and why wouldn't they -- relatively speaking I'd say it's a great deal.

Germany's Technikdirekt lists it at euro 4136,00. Considering that the AF-S 300/2,8 II is at 5296,00 it isn't IMHO expensive, relatively speaking. On absolute terms I can't possibly justify buying either new... and of course in US you'll probably be able to buy it for something like $3000, which is under 2500 euros. :-(

Hi Mike,

 

I noticed I read your question too fast the first time around, my lens is not MTO 1000A but MTO 11CA (the one rugift sells), my comments relate to that. Didn't know there were 2 versions. Sorry about the confusion!

I have one, purchased it recently but haven't used it yet for more than a few occasions. Contrast is so-so, as is sharpness; of course the mount has to be very solid but even when testing indoors I found it a bit soft. On my Nikon D100 I'm so far happier with a 400/5.6 and enlarging 2x, but maybe I'll improve with practice. The low contrast bothers me more than slight softness.

 

Focusing is difficult, mainly because the focussing ring is huge and doesn't move lightly (and my hands are rather big).

 

Still, it fits a niche and doesn't cost a fortune -- I bought it more as a toy to play with than anything else. Just don't expect brilliant results.

Isn't the filter part of the optical formula, ie. you have to have at least the clear filter attached at all times?

 

Not directly related, but at least the Peleng fisheye does not fit all Nikons, on some bodies the mirror hits the lens and on some ones not. See <a href="http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/stuff/peleng_fisheye/peleng_fisheye.html">Marco Pauck's page</a>.

Moi Tapio,

 

my order came today in the mail. Great service, all e-mail questions I had were answered within 24 hrs (including one during a holiday), delivery took 6 days which is the same as with, e.g., technikdirekt. No complaints.

 

Ask them in e-mail about their stock, the lens I ordered they had.

One more Pz IV vote, as you see at the rear the side of the tank bends inwards above the track mudguard. Pz VI (Tiger) has straight sides.

As far as I remember from the 300/4.5 I had (was stupid enough to sell it), the lens hood stays in place due to friction between the black felt that lines the inside of the lens hood, and the lens body itself. Has the felt been damaged?

 

I guess it is possible to replace it by yourself, though I never read of anyone doing that.

<p>Hi,

 

<p>after being encouraged by others' successes in Nikon gear

modification, I decided to chip a small extension ring so I can use

ttl metering with my D100 and PB-4. Here's a little web page on how

it went: <a

href="http://raaka.rikos.org/accordion/accordion.html">the electric

accordion</a>. It was less difficult than I expected, considering

that I have poor skills for mechanical work, so maybe others want to

try something similar just as well.

Thanks to all the responses. I'll have to try out both infinity focussing and what David suggested (I think D100 can do that to, must be buried somewhere in the menus).

 

I was sort of aware beforehand of the prop problem as well as the need to compensate the exposure, but of course I tended to forget these when actually shooting in the small airshow I mentioned -- see for instance the included picture. Practice helps, I suppose!<div></div>

Hi,

 

I plan to go to at least one large airshow during the summer; the

programme includes planes flying both singly and in formation, both

ordinary flybys and acrobatics; prop engines and jets.

 

I've a very limited experience of air shows so far (one rural show),

so I was wondering if anyone could recommend a lens to use. Namely,

while I found the reach of my 80-400 VR to be adequate on my D100,

the AF speed was quite lacking -- admittedly the skies were partly

cloudy and gray, and I wouldn't have expected it to pick up a Hornet

very easily from the medium gray background.

 

Anyway, I'm thinking now of getting something along the lines of

300/4 AF-S; I think the reach would still be good enough although I

might run into some trouble with large planes landing/taking off, as

they might not fit into the image and there'd be no backing away with

the zoom. I think lack of VR wouldn't be a problem if skies are sunny

enough to keep the shutter speeds down, and I'd gain a stop wrt 80-

400 anyway.

 

Another plus for me would be the close focussing ability of the 300/4

(1.5 metres if I recall correctly), as that'd help me in insect

macro, another subject I plan to do during the summer.

 

Any experiences? Other recommendations? My budget would be about 1000

euros max.

Hi,

 

I've been trying to find out what gear I need to get to build a macro

flash setup for my D100, but Nikon's documentation leaves me very

confused.

 

What I want is simply a flash mounted off the camera and TTL

metering, for either fill flash or to completely light the scene with

the flash. I thought that SC-17 and SB-50DX would suit me, but after

reading the manual it seems that D-TTL doesn't work with off-camera

flash. User manual pg. 107: "When an SC-17 sync cable is used for off-

camera flash photography, correct exposure may not be achieved in D-

TTL mode. We recommend that you choose spot metering to select

Standard TTL Flash for Digital SLR. Take a test shot and view the

results in the monitor."

 

So what's this then? I can't even use CW metering and TTL flash? What

gear exactly do I need to get what I need? D70 and one of the newest

flashes (I hope not)? Go back to film (have already F65 and SB-24)?

The missing contact certainly is a cause for problems.

 

Note that the contacts are attached to a flat strip which connects them to the microchip inside and the chip is specific to the lens model. Maybe it is possible to split open the plastic which houses the metal contacts and replace the missing one, or cut the contact strip and solder on a new plastic block of contacts altogether, but I'd personally demand a partial refund from the seller after hearing from a technician how much the repair would cost in a shop. The resale value of the lens would surely go down if you make changes by yourself.

In case you try the microwave trick, remember to take photos and upload them to the owner of <a href="http://margo.student.utwente.nl/el/microwave/"> this page </a> :-)

If you aren't afraid of a bit of metal work, check this link:

http://www.tele.ucl.ac.be/PEOPLE/DOUXCHAMPS/photo/pn11.html

I've used this lens with a F65; only manual mode of operation is available but if you can manage that, no problems. The image quality in the sample I had was ok, not bitingly sharp but fair enough.

 

Since the film to lens distance is the same in all Nikon SLRs, naturally, I don't think the information you have is correct. I didn't see any focussing problems in my lens.

For Linux users there's a command line tool called "dcraw" which can be integrated into any script you like.

 

It can be used as a Gimp plugin, too.

<i>I'd be just a tad nervous about that if they didn't pop the aperture ring off the lens first. If they drilled and tapped into the ring while it was attached to the lens, you run the risk of metal shavings dropping inside.</i><p>

 

Good point. In my case, however, the holes for the prong were there already. It is a 135/2.8 AI which I bought used -- I believe that model originally had the prong and the previous owner had removed it.

I walked into the nearest decent repair shop with my lens and got it attached while waiting, for a token price. Shouldn't be a hard item to find.