peter_daalder

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<p>Also, some type of clamp to hold the paintings would be most desirable.</p><div></div>

<p>Short answer: Polarising filter on camera and in front of (both) light sources, placed at a 45 degree angle to the painting(s).<br /> More reading in the <a href="../search/?cx=000753226439295166877%3A0gyn0h9z85o&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&q=oil+paintings+inurl%3A%2Fphotography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum%2F&qx=oil+paintings&sa=Search+This+Forum#1779" target="blank">Lighting and equipment forum.</a></p>

<p>Dress up as <a href="http://www.ablenet.org/entertainment/1/japanese_vending_machine_camouflage" target="blank">a vending machine?</a></p>

<p>But seriously, if it was me, I would favour <a href="http://www.kpraslowicz.com/2009/10/15/twin-lens-reflex-tlr-street-shooting/" target="blank">this approach.</a><br>

Alternatively, making use of an adjustable LCD screen on one of the current crop of digital cameras, perhaps.</p>

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<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/wtdcomics#p/u/20/62tkGm4qQzU" target="blank"> Obviously a tortured artist...</a></p>

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<p>Get yourself a copy of <a href="http://www.neatimage.com/" target="blank">Neat Image.</a> It is fast, relatively easy to use and gives you great results.</p>

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<p>I think that Gabor's suggestion of taking a stab at still life photography is an excellent idea.</p>

 

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<p>I'm a bit intimidated by still life, in that I suspect it would require an outlay for additional equipment, and my budget is strained right now.</p>

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<p>As much as I am also intimidated by this particular genre, it really boils down to just taking the initiative and start to explore photographic opportunities that are only limited by your own imagination.<br /> There is actually no need for the outlay of any additional equipment and there is proof of this. Check out photo.net's champion of shooting still life on a shoe string budget - <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=956241" target="blank"> Ken Williams.</a> <br /> I'd give it a go myself, if only I wasn't so addicted to our local landscapes... ;-)</p>

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<p>Never mind about the hidden people and their 'bad' ratings. It is the visible people with their 'good' ratings that you should beware of.</p>

<p>BTW, <a href="../site-help-forum/00WzJw" target="blank">questions like these,</a> belong in the Photo.net site help forum.</p>

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<p>G'day Martin,<br /> You could be proactive and drop <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=732412" target="blank">Peter Tang</a> a line. I'm sure he'll be more than happy to share some (specific) tips.<br>

BTW, Your D90 will handle ISO 400 quite comfortably, but above that, noise definitely becomes a factor imo.</p>

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<p>When adjusting the size of your canvas, make sure to have the background set to white, before adding about 4 pixels* all around (*an arbitrary amount - see example). Change background to black and add a further 200 pixels* (*an arbitrary amount - see example). Then remove some from the top to suit your taste.</p><div></div>

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<p>Which camera do you use to carry in your small bag for everyday use instead of your bulky pro-camera?</p>

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<p>A Canon G11.<br>

Very happy with it for casual snapshots, but like most small(er) sensor P&S cameras, it tends to blow out the highlights, even with the contrast adjustment function.</p>

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<p>I tried to load straight from camera using Canon software and it worked without problem, but this is not recommended and I have no control over photos (loads whole card ).</p>

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<p>Not recommended by whom? If/when using Canon's ZoomBrowser, you can either (down) load a whole card, or you can individually select which images you want.<br>

Running a PC desktop and a MacBookPro here. No trouble with Canon's software on the Mac.<br>

Using iPhoto to unload your camera should be even more straightforward.</p>